I grit my teeth and take a few more steps. Sweat drips down my nose as my heart pounds. Progress is measured in feet, not miles, on these ascents. The goats make it look so easy. Occasionally, a shepherd will pass in a beat-up Toyota Hilux; a simple nod is sufficient. It may be December, but the temperature here is more than 76°F (unseasonably warm), the shade is seldom, and the only snow is sprinkled lightly on the peak of Mount Ida ahead. I’m bikepacking the Greek island of Crete, and up to this point, things have been challenging.
Crete is best known as a Mediterranean paradise for summer vacations, but it’s also fiercely rugged and ideally suited to the adventurer. There are three main mountain ranges: the White Mountains or “Lefka Ori” in Chania, the Ida or “Psiloritis” range in central Crete, and the Dikti range in Lassithi. In these areas, there’s an extensive network of gravel roads, singletrack, and hiking trails perfect for bikepacking. It’s worth noting that unless you travel along the coast (bicycles are prohibited on some main roads), the interior is generally rugged, and traveling by bicycle, you’ll quickly adjust your mileage expectations. This was especially pertinent to my ride since flight delays meant I arrived two days late.
– Shot on 35mm film with Contax T2
The initial delays, paired with a locked lower back and calf, meant I had to rethink plans. Over the years, I’ve suffered multiple injuries on the bike, but there’s a difference between a twinge and real pain, and this was the latter. I was half a day’s ride from Lefka Ori, and the masochist in me wanted to grit my teeth and push forward, but deep down, I knew this was a fool’s errand. I checked my ego, booked a cheap room, dug out the maps, and adjusted my route. It was a much-needed reminder that these trips are, first and foremost, about having fun and that adjusting plans is part of the adventure and not a failure. I decided instead to focus my riding around the Ida mountains in central Crete, and I’m glad I did. At the heart of the range is the island’s highest mountain, Psiloritis (Mount Ida, 8,058 feet), which is the mythical birthplace of Zeus.
– Shot on 35mm film with Contax T2
The bike of choice for this assignment was a first-generation Surly Krampus, which was reimagined in partnership with my local bike shop (Herbert’s Cycles). This model is marketed as a dedicated 29+ trail bike and, subsequently, is not targeted primarily at touring (you’ll find more info on their touring-specific models here). The first iteration is especially hardcore in this regard, as it has very few mounting points for racks/gear (something that changed on later models). This was intentional, as I wanted to explore what products were available to upfit bikes of any age/design for bikepacking. The finished build performed excellently, with the only issue being the inability to lock out the aftermarket front suspension (this would compress on severe descents and cause my handlebar bag to rub on the front wheel). Besides this minor inconvenience, the Krampus was flawless and proved to be one of the most comfortable bikes I’ve built.
– Shot on 35mm film with Contax T2
Wild camping is not permitted, but like many places in Europe, if you’re in remote mountainous regions, it’s unlikely you’ll be moved on (or even see anyone). If I was unable to find a suitable place to camp, then I’d find a local BnB (€20-30 per night)—gas stations are a great place to ask for recommendations. Crete is very safe, and the biggest risk is locals inviting you to camp in their garden or for dinner. I used a combination of Komoot, Ride With GPS, Google Maps, and Nakas Road paper maps for navigation, and I cross-referenced more than one when deciding on routes. If you’d like to learn more about bikepacking in Crete, then Sarah Swallow, UltraRomance, and Sea Surf Dirt are great resources. The latter is especially informative, and I want to thank Mike of @SeaSurfDirt for answering all my questions (*one small edit is that screw-top gas canisters for stoves are now available).
– Shot on 35mm film with Contax T2.
Below is a selection of products that enriched my bikepacking experience, followed by a comprehensive pack list:
Oveja Negra Royale Hip Pack, Wack Pack
Hip packs are ideal for valuables, essentials, and cameras when adventuring, and the Royale hip pack is my favorite. The Wack pack variant is made using random/leftover fabric, webbing, and hook and loop and is a testament to the company’s commitment to environmental/ethical best practices (it also means each bag is as unique as the rider). It features a roll-top closure, zippered interior stow pocket, side compression straps, Duraflex mil-spec dual adjust waist buckles, and a reflective logo. The Royale boasts more than 4 liters of capacity and is extremely comfortable thanks to the high-density closed-cell foam-reinforced hip wings and breathable mesh back.
$110 | ovejanegrabikepacking.com
Nuke Sunrise Mini Panniers
Nuke Sunrise’s Mini-Panniers are a no-brainer when using a pannier rack. At just 600 grams per piece, these bags are practically weightless yet provide 6 liters (each) of easy-access storage. I’ve used an array of mini panniers over the past few years, but these are the best to date. Highlights include an exterior MOLLE side panel for attaching gear and a heavy-duty storm-flapped zipper with bi-directional sliders located on the outer edge for optimal accessibility. The panniers incorporate a CNC-machined ABS plastic stiffener to maintain a sleek shape and three points of attachment utilizing voile straps for secure universal fitment.
$140-280 | nukesunrise.com
Ergon GP3 Biokork Touring Bike Grips
After reading countless glowing reviews of Ergon’s GP3 BioKork touring grips, I decided to take the plunge. The GP Series is available in small or large and is compatible with trigger-, Rohloff-, Nexus-, and single-twist-shifters. Ergon strives to be environmentally conscious, with all parts of the GP3 BioKork manufactured sustainably. The wing grip design increases the hand’s support area by distributing pressure over a wider surface area, which prevents numbness, tingling, and pain. The comfort provided by the GP3s was remarkable, and I’m glad I opted for the fiberglass composite clamp with the rubber bar end grips for additional hand positions.
$70 | ergonbike.com
Thule Tour Rack
Occasionally, products are ahead of their time but seemingly go under the radar, and the Thule Tour rack is one of them. This has long been my choice for bikes without mounting points for pannier racks. This versatile and lightweight (2.4 pounds) rack can be attached to the front or rear of the bike and will fit up to a 29- x 2.5-inch tire (it did clear my 29- x 3-inch tires but was snug). It features a quick mount/release system, integrated light/reflector mount, adjustable deck and rails for maximum pedal/heel clearance, and supports up to 25 pounds of cargo.
$140 | thule.com
Tailfin Suspension Fork Mounts and Cargo Cages
Tailfin’s suspension fork mount and cage allow riders to attach additional cargo/water bottle cages on the lower legs of suspension forks. The mount is available in stainless steel or carbon and is designed to carry up to two additional cages. The Cage, available in small or large sizes, is constructed using “indestructible” 7075-T6 aluminum and can be optioned with a Cargo Cage Load Chip. The mounting instructions and hardware are excellent and ensure a seamless installation. I loaded the carbon Fork Mount and large Cage with a Salsa EXP Series Anything Cage Bag, and despite two weeks of abuse, the mounts were totally dependable and required zero maintenance.
$40-185 | tailfin.cc
Quadlock Cycling Out Front Mount
Quadlock manufactures phone cases that incorporate a discreet rear locking mechanism compatible with their entire ecosystem of mounts and accessories. I matched the iPhone 13 Pro Max Case (sold separately) with the Out Front Mount, which is suitable for bicycles and motorcycles. It’s available in Original and Pro configurations (the latter features an extended aluminum mounting arm) and features multiple device mounting options and a quick-release dual-stage lock. Installation is seamless, thanks to the included hex key and various spacers for the perfect fit. This system provides safe and easy access to your phone for navigation, communication, and entertainment.
$40-60 | quadlockcase.com
Rab Argon Pants
During the winter of 2023, I bikepacked Abruzzo, Italy, with temperatures as low as 12°F. Despite a winter-rated sleeping bag and multiple layers, I couldn’t get warm. Subsequently, for this ride, I added Rab’s Argon pants to my sleep system, which feature 800FP ethically sourced European goose down, a Pertex Quantum outer, a YKK Vislon two-way front fly zipper, and a stitch-through construction to eliminate cold spots. They’re ultra compressible and weigh just 13.2 ounces, which means you can stuff them into your existing winter pack list without a second thought. It was a joy slipping these on after a long day on the bike, and the warmth-to-weight ratio is excellent.
$220 | rab.equipment.com
Alpkit Rhythm Glove
I’ve used various fingerless cycling gloves over the years but always come back to Alpkit. To this end, I purchased a pair of the company’s Rhythm mitts. They feature a synthetic “nash” leather palm designed to be grippy and supple and zoned padding to prevent blisters and rubbing. The mesh back is comfortable, breathable, and prevents hands from feeling restricted and clammy. Additional highlights include a thumb-length nose wipe and fourchette joins between the fingers (which makes them easier to remove). The hook and loop closure ensures a secure fit and minimizes slipping, and thanks to the cuffless design, you almost forget you’re wearing them.
$27 | us.alpkit.com\
Apple AirPods Pro 2
I’m a prolific music/podcast lover, but until recently, I’ve only used affordable Tribit Flybud NC earbuds. However, for this trip, I invested in the AirPod Pro 2s. Featuring the company’s H2 chip, which utilizes computational algorithms to deliver noise cancellation, three-dimensional sound, and impressive battery life. They also integrate adaptive audio, intelligent ways to test your hearing and minimize exposure to loud noise, and an inward-facing microphone that works with voice enhancement algorithms to recognize and articulate your voice. I ride with just one AirPod for safety, but when I’m working, they significantly improve my productivity and deliver an immersive audio experience.
$249 | apple.com
My Favorite Pick :: Durston, X-Dome 1+
The X-Dome 1+ delivers above and beyond what’s expected of a tent this size and weight. It’s a 3-season ultralight freestanding tent that weighs just 34.7 ounces (“regular” version) thanks to unique geometry, carbon-fiber tubing, high tenacity silpoly fabric, and a pole set designed for optimal structural efficiency via large diameter spine tubing. Its living space defies its weight and packed-down size, providing a generous 23 square feet of space and 42 inches of headroom. Pitching is seamless since the fly, inner, and Easton carbon-fiber poles (fully connected pole set) all extend to the same four points, so you can pitch the tent in any order, with the fly and inner pre-connected to save time. Other desirable attributes include the overhanging doorway (which prevents rain from falling inside), interior hang loops and pockets, double-wall protection, dual peak vents (to reduce condensation), and integrated magnets to secure fly doors. The large vestibule is positioned beside the main doorway (rather than blocking it like most tents) and offers 9.2 square feet of space for storing gear. I spent almost two weeks living out of this tent, and it was a legitimate home away from home. The weight-to-feature ratio is outstanding, and despite strong winds and rain, it was unphased.
$379-423 | durstongear.com
Specifications
Bike
Surly Krampus (first gen)
Selle Anatomica saddle
Thule Tour rack
Ergon GP3 Biokork touring bike grips
Jones H-bar
Shimano hub, 12-speed (10-51) cassette, and SLX rear mech and shifter unit
Shimano 203-millimeter rotors with 4-pot calipers
Surly Rabbit Hole Rims with Knard 29- x 3-inch tires
Manitou Magnum Pro Fork
Quadlock, Cycling Out Front Mount
Moon Meteor Storm front light and Nebula rear light
Tailfin Suspension fork mounts and cargo cages
Bags
RonsBikes large Fabio chest
Nuke Sunrise Fuselage
Nuke Sunrise Gadget
Nuke Sunrise Giant Silo (2)
Nuke Sunrise MegaTitan
Nuke Sunrise Mini Panniers
Surly Bikes Moloko bar handlebar bag
Surly Bikes/Revelate Designs Mountain frame bag
Salsa Series Anything Bag (2)
Oveja Negra Royale hip pack, Wack pack
Camping Gear
Durston X-Dome 1+
Big Agnes Storm King down sleeping bag
Big Agnes Q-Core SLX insulated sleeping pad
Sea to Summit Aeros Premium pillow
Cookware
Soto Helix coffee maker
Klean Kanteen vacuum-insulated 20-ounce bottle
Nalgene 48-ounce bottles (2)
Snowpeak titanium double wall 450 mug
Light My Fire spork
Firepot camp food (various)
Clothing
Bontrager Quantum Mips helmet
Ombraz armless sunglasses
Club Ride Apparel Autumn Collection
Alpkit Rhythm gloves
Sealskinz Extreme cold-weather gloves
Sealskinz Quickdry knee-length walking socks
The North Face Larimer mid-high-top shoes
Surly Bikes merino tees and neck gaiter
Berghaus Extreme rain jacket and trousers
Rab Argon down pants
Timex Expedition watch
Electronics
Apple iPad Pro 5th-Generation 12.9-inch and iPhone 13 Pro Max
Apple AirPods Pro 2
Garmin inReach Mini 2
Anker Gen Astro E7 96.48-watt-hour battery banks (2)
BioLite AlpenGlow Mini
Petzl Tikka RXP headtorch
Sony A7IV (with a 28-70mm and 11-20mm lens)
Contax T2 35mm film camera
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