Editor’s Note: This article was originally published in Overland Journal’s Gear 2023 Issue.
Photography by Katja Smurakova
When Björn and Katja sealed the deal on their 1984 Mercedes-Benz 508D bus in 2018, the interior was empty, the exterior was painted fuchsia and cobalt blue, and proper insulation was non-existent. But it lacked the extensive rust they found on other models, elicited the retro look they were going for, and was for sale on their home island of Gotland, Sweden. It was a rare find. As the evening light faded, the couple opted to inspect the bus the next day, excitedly driving their new project vehicle homeward. Days later, they poked around inside, noticing the beginnings of water damage. This led them to the roof. “There was water everywhere,” Björn recalled. “It was a catastrophe.”
“Beelzebus” is the devilish moniker for this rear-wheel-drive buss, which houses an 85- horsepower diesel engine and 5-speed manual transmission. Between 1967 and 1986, Mercedes manufactured the first generation of T2 vans, which were used as fire trucks, army ambulances, and transport or cargo vehicles. The positive attributes which served folks in the ’80s, such as the reliable OM314 engine and generously sized cargo area, also made it a suitable platform for Björn and Katja.
When they first traveled throughout Scandinavia, the couple made a few modifications to their daily driver, a Lincoln Navigator, but quickly desired more space. After experiencing bouts of rainy and stormy weather, and with their 185-pound Irish wolfhound, Balthazar, in tow, they began to consider a larger vehicle with indoor living space. “While that was happening, we decided to sell our house and move,” Katja says. “We eventually realized, why would we need a house if we could live in a bigger vehicle?”
After perusing a local classifieds app, the couple was drawn to the rounded retro shape and style of the mid-1980’s Mercedes buses. At just shy of 6 meters, the length of the vehicle proved beneficial as it prevented extra fees from ferry rides and toll roads. Plus, at 2.1 meters wide, the van was small enough to drive and park on Norway’s narrow backroads. It was just about finding one. “When we were looking, there were maybe six or eight for sale in all of Sweden,” Katja recalls. “We visited a few on the island, but they were all very, very rusty.”
Beelzebus also turned out to be rusty, but Björn and Katja didn’t find out until daylight broke after the sale. “[Buying it] wasn’t a mistake,” Katja says. “But there was a lot of work.” At some point in the vehicle’s life, the interior had been redone as an RV. Björn, a carpenter and electrician by trade, noticed the lack of proper insulation. That same day, they ripped out the entire interior.
The layout of the Mercedes-Benz 508D platform offered the couple total control to customize the build to their specifications. After lowering the floor, the spacious interior provided enough height for 6-foot-tall Björn and enough space for Balthazar’s oversize bed. From the outset, Katja says she and Björn planned the layout with Balthazar in mind. “We made a big space where he could have his bed. We were going to be traveling a lot with changing scenery, and he needed to know he had his own place. Many people let their dogs sleep in the hallway or passage, but he was so big, and it was uncomfortable for him.” Another addition included a drop-down table with circular cutouts for Balthazar’s food and water bowls, accommodating his tall height.
At 40,000 Swedish krona (around $4,300), Björn and Katja admit that the low price allowed more flexibility with the conversion. Plus, because their “veteran” vehicle is over 30 years old, it is tax-exempt and qualifies for enthusiast Old Timer insurance in Sweden, further reducing monthly costs. The total amount spent on the conversion was somewhere in the range of 80,000 to 90,000 krona, which equates to between $8,600 and $9,600 (at the time of writing).
As to the design, they admit it took hours to plan, a lot of discussions, and testing different layouts to figure out the right fit. “I think we were just kind of winging it,” Björn says. “We were sitting there listening to music, talking about stuff, trying it out a little bit. The first thing we tried was a temporary bed and kitchen counter [made] with beams and plywood.” The couple drove to Germany in the bus with a prototype of the bed and kitchen. “The bus was [still] pink at that time,” Katja laughs.
After six months of full-time blood, sweat, and tears shed by Björn and Katja, Beelzebus was ready for the maiden voyage: a 9-month road trip through Norway and Sweden. Pink paint long gone, the couple coated the exterior in a stormy grey with a black silhouette of conifer trees and flying birds. A Cornett sun visor rounds out the vintage feel and accents the sweeping front window, while a custom roof rack (built by Björn) cradles a wooden deck, two aluminum storage boxes for seldomly used outdoor gear, and two 335-watt LG Neon solar panels. “The roof rack is made from regular steel as I didn’t have an aluminum welder at the time,” Björn says. “I had never held a welder before this project, so it was a steep learning curve because thin sheet metal is hard to weld.”
As the van’s stock headlights left much to be desired, the couple affixed two X-Vision Genesis 300-watt LED bars to the roof rack and three 120-watt Seeker LED lights atop the front bumper. As the 508D is without reverse lights, they installed a few lights on the sides and rear of the roof rack. A red LED loop adds ambience and an illuminating glow beneath the bus. The loop, Katja says, “has a silicone casing so it doesn’t get damaged and can withstand stone chips.” The accessory lights have come in handy, especially during short winter days and dark drives in northern Norway.
With plenty of spruce paneling, comfy pillows, and a thick rug running the length of the bus, the interior of Björn and Katja’s build looks like an inviting, cozy cabin. Plants line the dashboard, and a gleaming metallic shifter knob in the shape of a skull adds character to the space. The kitchen was outfitted with a modified Ikea drawer system, which Björn says he would like to fit with a locking mechanism. The bespoke tile mosaic backsplash and oak countertop elevate the space from house to home and are bordered by a Dometic two-burner stovetop and sink, spice rack, and full-size Technivorm Moccamaster coffee maker. These two love their coffee.
Across from the kitchen lies a clothing wardrobe with a full-length mirror, which creates an illusion of increased space. Past the kitchen is a small dinette, pull-out bed, and lots of natural light thanks to three large windows. After using the table for quite some time, the couple says they are ready for a more substantial work and dining surface. A hidden indoor shower is one of the more recent modifications to the build, lying beneath a hatch to the rear of the driver’s seat. Water storage includes an 80-liter freshwater tank and 85 liters of greywater.
As Björn and Katja are fans of winter camping, Björn installed a diesel heater. During his initial research, he couldn’t decide between the high-end Webasto model or an unbranded, generic one manufactured in China. He wondered if the price difference was really worth it. “We decided, let’s try it because the Chinese version we got for $200. We’ve been using it for two winters in a row and haven’t had any problems at all.” The ultimate test occurred during their time camped in a valley near Kiruna, the northernmost town in Sweden. “When we woke up in the morning, it was -28°C, which is quite cold, even for Sweden. We still had +20°C inside the bus. So that means it has quite the punch,” he says.
The 508D’s trunk houses fuel and electrical items such as two 10-pound propane tanks, tools, heavy-duty towing and recovery gear, a Victron MMPT solar charge controller, a 2,000-watt inverter, and two 12-volt Norrack dual-purpose AGM batteries. The solar system helps power electrical components, including interior lights, an 80-liter Sunwind fridge, and an overhead Maxx Air kitchen fan. The couple also carries a gasoline generator, solely used as a backup power source.
After plenty of trips throughout Scandinavia, Björn and Katja have a deep understanding of what makes Beelzebus tick. They also know that older vehicles have a unique set of idiosyncratic challenges and drawbacks. While the OM314 engine has a reputation for reliability, it is also loud and significantly lacks power. “We top out at around 90 kph on a flat highway. We’re considering changing the engine or maybe installing a turbo. It’s a hard decision, though,” Katja says. Compounding the slow speed is weight. With a hefty chassis and sizable water and fuel tanks, the bus weighs 4.5 tons (9,000 pounds) fully loaded and requires a class C driver’s license to operate. Katja emphasizes that driving uphill is challenging. “We are afraid that people get annoyed with us,” she says.
Obscure vehicles can test one’s patience and stretch one’s wallet. Fortunately, Björn tells me that Mercedes-Benz offers a parts guarantee which allows owners to order any 508D bus part from the original factory. This usually costs a bit more but provides the reassurance that there is no part you cannot get your hands on. Björn and Katja frequently visited their local Mercedes dealership—buying and special-ordering parts, checking availability in warehouses spanning the globe. “There were two that came from America and took three days to get here,” Björn says. Despite the hassles that come with an older vehicle, Katja knows it’s worth it. “You get to save a car that could have been retired and sent to the junkyard. Now, it’s more or less in mint condition and will serve you for a lifetime.”
In the beginning, the idea was to build Beelzebus for a year-long road trip around Sweden, visiting little towns and villages or perhaps finding a piece of land somewhere. This vision was born out of Katja’s past. “I was depressed for many years after my mother died in my twenties. At some point, it feels like you wake up in the morning, and it’s like you’re trapped. I had anxiety that it could be 30 to 40 years later, and my life has passed, and it’s been the same the whole time—like Groundhog Day.” It dawned on them that they enjoyed going to places, staying a little while, and experiencing each area—camping, hiking, or whatever. “It was such a nice feeling,” says Katya. “We were happy on the road. Every time we were going on the ferry back to [Gotland], I would sit with tears in my eyes. I didn’t want to go back. We eventually realized that we didn’t want to stop.”
Despite a busy project schedule and the passing of their beloved Balthazar, Björn and Katja haven’t stopped. These days, the winds of change continue to blow, with snow-filled winter trips to Fulufjällets National Park, filming their travels in Beelzebus, an upcoming tiny house project, and a new pup named Lou keeping them busy. What else is next for this couple? A rusty 1963 Volvo Laplander L3314 military truck currently sits in their yard, awaiting a monumental transformation.
Specifications
1984 Mercedes-Benz 508D
Power
OM314 diesel engine
5-speed manual transmission
Suspension and Drivetrain
Leaf spring heavy-duty suspension
Rear-wheel drive
Wheels and Tires
Factory steel wheels
Michelin Latitude all-purpose 4×4 7.50R16C tires
Recovery and Armor
Front bull bar and rear bumper in progress
MSW Motor Technics 6.124-kilogram winch
K&N air filter
MaxTrax MKII black recovery tracks
Accessories
Two X-Vision Genesis 300-watt LED bars
Three 120-watt Seeker LED lights
Cornett sun visor
Portable 12-volt compressor
Two LG Neon solar panels, 355 watts each
Two Norrack 250-amp-hour dual-purpose AGM batteries
Ikea drawer system
Aluminum storage boxes
Sunwind 12-volt 80-liter fridge
Freshwater tank, 80 liters
Greywater tank, 85 liters
Underfloor “hidden” shower
Pioneer AVH-3100 stereo and navigation system
Diesel heater
Our No Compromise Clause: We carefully screen all contributors to ensure they are independent and impartial. We never have and never will accept advertorial, and we do not allow advertising to influence our product or destination reviews.
Read more: This 1990 Toyota Hilux is Fit for an Icelandic Saga
