A few months before the outbreak of the pandemic, I found myself bikepacking the beautiful Sierra Nevada mountains in Spain. The trip was two-wheeled perfection. I spent long days traversing the upland Andalusian province of Granada with some of my best friends, swimming daily, indulging ourselves in the food and wine of the region, and pitching our tents under pristine starry skies. It was bliss. One of our key objectives was summiting the highest peak in the range, Mulhacen (11,414 feet), and spending the night prior at the beautiful Refugio Poqueira, located at 8,202 feet.
A refugio (refuge) is a mountain hut that can be found in many parts of the world and ranges from a simple stone shelter to a staffed guest house. The Sierra Nevada benefits from an entire network of refugios which are documented at treksierranevada.com. Refugio Poqueira (owned by the CMM and the Parque Nacional Sierra Nevada and managed by the Andalusian Mountaineering Federation) is perhaps the most popular as it serves as the perfect starting point to summit Mulhacen. To reach Poqueira, you must first find the romantic village of Capileira (4,698 feet), where you can hike four hours on a trail or ascend the bumpy mountain road in your vehicle to the Poqueira Electric Station (5,150 feet), park up, and walk from there.
This refugio is a lightyear from the rudimentary stone bothies I’ve become accustomed to bikepacking in Scotland. The alpine building provides 76 beds, a communal living/dining room with a log burner, warm food and showers, and even a bar service. An overnight stay is €20, but you can pay an additional €27.50 for an evening meal and breakfast. Staying at the refugio is an experience all in itself, with walls covered in mountaineering history and photos from the region, cozy bunks, and the opportunity to share conversation with other like-minded adventurers over a glass of wine or two. However, the charm of the building is overshadowed by the sheer majesty of its surroundings. We spent most of the afternoon outside watching the sunset bathing Mulhacen and the Poqueira Ravine in beautiful golden autumnal light. After an enjoyable evening, we retired to our cozy bunks and rested for the climb ahead.
The ascent of Mulhacen was undoubtedly a highlight of our bikepacking adventure, and spending the night at Refugio Poqueira ahead of the final push really added to the experience. If you’d like to find out more, visit refugiopoqueira.com.
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