As a general rule, I arrive at tourist hot spots early, which often requires waking at 4:30 am with a groan, stumbling around the van like a zombie, and wondering why “Jack of yesterday” didn’t go to bed at a sensible time. Hate that guy. It’s not uncommon for me to do a week or more of early starts to capture the sunrise and avoid the crowds, and while the chirpy-chime of my alarm often brings me to tears, it’s almost always worthwhile. Unfortunately, there are occasions when getting to a site early isn’t an option, and faced with the prospect of huge crowds, I have to ask myself whether it’s worth it. The iconic Mt. Seceda, at 2,519 meters (8,264 feet), Dolomites, is one such location.
The most popular access to Seceda is via a cable car in Ortisei, Val Gardena, which opens at 8:30 am and is operational between the 28th of May and the 2nd of November. The cable car is such a feat of engineering that it contributes to the overall experience. Unfortunately, this comes at a cost; the cable car is $39 (children up to 7 go free, and juniors up to 15 cost $16), and parking is $11 for the day (it’s worth noting there’s a height barrier on the main parking, but there’s a separate gravel lot for oversized vehicles).
The closest campsite is almost 30 minutes away (Camping Seiser Alm) and not inexpensive, although it’s one of the nicest sites I’ve ever stayed. Wild camping in this region of the Dolomites could incur a fine, so I’d advise taking the hit on a site. It’s easy to start penny-pinching while living on the road, viewing any expenditure besides food, fuel, and mechanicals as an indulgence. Spending over $60 on a tourist attraction feels like you’ve become some disillusioned playboy millionaire one stop from chartering a private jet. However, it’s important to remind yourself that most people on vacation wouldn’t think twice. Sometimes it’s nice to do a proper touristy day where you eat pizza and gelato, sip cappuccinos, and see some amazing sites. Nevertheless, I still winced as I emptied my pitiful wallet of shrapnel at the cable car kiosk and thought about how many cans of beans I’d just forfeited for my ascent into the clouds.
It took about 10 seconds to forget I’d just spent my life savings because the journey to Seceda was epic. The climb requires two cable cars: the first from Ortisei to Furnes, which is 2,500 meters in length, with a vertical drop of 450 meters, followed by a second larger, more impressive car from Furnes to Seceda, which is slightly less distance (2,050 meters) but dangles over a vertical drop of 700 meters. It was a windy day, and as the cable car creaked and swayed, I couldn’t help thinking this would be a living nightmare for someone afraid of heights. I’ll concede that my legs felt a little wobbly at times.
The journey to Seceda from Ortisei takes around 25 minutes (including the changeover halfway), and there’s a café, pizzeria, and public toilets at the top. The moment I stepped out of the cable car, I was met with a cold breeze and considerable temperature drop, so I’d recommend taking a warm layer. Once you exit the cable car station, you’re met with panoramic postcard-perfect views of the Dolomites and, of course, the imposing Seceda peaks. The ridgeline is at cloud level, and when I arrived, it was almost completely hidden from view, so I opted to sit in the café, which has a perfect vantage point.
Half an hour later, the clouds began dissipating, and I made my way over while assessing the best spot for a photograph. I found a rocky outcrop away from the crowds with a clear view of the ridge, set up my tripod, and took a selection of 35mm, 120mm, and digital photos (including a shot on my old medium format Rolleiflex, seen below). I could’ve stayed for hours. The majesty and harshness of the ridge juxtaposed with the gently rolling hills and the valley behind was a sight to behold. There are numerous hikes, mountain bike routes, and other attractions to enjoy, with more than enough exploring to fill the entire day, but with a Volkswagen meet looming, I had to make do with a morning photography session.
Seceda is a very popular destination, and with that comes heavy tourism. That said, I was at the cable car for opening time, which meant I arrived on the ridge just after 9 am, and it was surprisingly quiet. It was only on the return at midday that hordes of tourists began arriving, so I’d suggest being there for opening if you’d like to avoid the masses. The cable car itself is an exhilarating experience, but falls into insignificance when looking upon the magnificence of Seceda. It may be a relatively expensive endeavor for the cash-conscious overlander, but it’s worth every penny. In addition, Ortisei is within proximity to other equally beautiful locations, such as Val di Funes and the famous San Giovanni and Maddalena churches (19 miles), Seiser Alm (12 miles), Sella Pass (10 miles), and much more. If you’d like further information on Seceda, check out seceda.it.
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