They say that life is as much about the journey as the destination, so when it comes to vehicle travel, I often avoid the highways, instead opting for the more scenic route to reach my journey’s end. With this in mind, I ditched the main roads in Italy and crossed as many of the Dolomite’s high-mountain passes as possible, including the iconic Sella Pass.
At 7,276 feet of elevation, Sella Pass is located between the provinces of Trentino and South Tyrol. Positioned amongst the breathtaking Sella mountains (highest peak: Piz Boè, 10,338 feet) and Sassolungo (meaning “long stone”), the pass can be reached from the north from Val Gardena or ascended via Canazei in the south (the latter is a significantly harder climb). If like me, you seek maximum adventure, approach from the south via Passo Pordoi, which is reached via 33 hairpin turns and is arguably one of the most iconic climbs in the world of competitive cycling. Once you descend from Pordoi, you’ll rejoin the road to Sella Pass (the SS42) four miles into the climb from Canazei.
One of my longest driving days began with the Giau Pass (at 7,335 feet, it was one of the most brutal descents of the entire trip), on to Pordoi, and finally climbing Passo Sella. Those of you who read my piece on M. & M. Garage, Malosco, Italy will know that I experienced a terrifying brake fade in Austria enroute to the Dolomites, and spent a fortnight addressing the issue.
Needless to say, it was a trial by fire leaving the garage and tackling some of the biggest climbs in the region, and I was feeling nervous. In fact, as I looked at the map and contemplated my route, I made excuses about why I should avoid taking some of the more challenging passes. However, travel has taught me that facing your fears and stepping outside of your comfort zone generally provides the best experiences, so I quickly talked myself out of it.
There is a difference between rising to the challenge and being reckless, so before doing a trip like this, it is important to ensure your vehicle is running well, including checking the oil and coolant ahead of time, and, most importantly, have your brakes assessed/serviced.
Successfully crossing the Giau Pass earlier in the day meant I felt confident when I climbed Passo Pordoi (even if getting out of first gear was a challenge). When I began the ascent to Sella, nerves had given way to excitement. If you plan to drive any of these passes in a vintage or larger vehicle, prepare to crawl around tight hairpin bends. Pay close attention to motorbikes that understandably hit every corner enthusiastically (it’s a popular and busy road, so expect to let traffic pass at peak times). I maintained a steady 20 to 24 mph in second gear, but with approximately 90 horsepower and a 4-speed transmission, the possibility of engaging third was but a dream.
The initial switchbacks are wooded on both sides, but as you reach the final stages of the climb, it opens up to reveal truly breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. There are various parking places near the final approach; to avoid the crowds, pull in before the main lot for photos. The descent towards Val Gardena was fairly leisurely, but take care to remain in a low gear and resist the urge to sit on the brakes as it’s still a considerable gradient. It’s also worth noting that Passo Sella is just 13 miles south of the legendary 8,264-foot Seceda, which is not to be missed. Access to this peak is via an impressive (albeit terrifying, if you’re not a fan of heights) cable car that sets off from Ortisei.
Sella Pass was a joy to drive and provides some of the best panoramic views of the Dolomites. While tackling these huge mountain passes in a classic overland vehicle can be intimidating, reaching the top is that much sweeter.
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