It was sometime around 2000 when I walked into the REI store in Phoenix, Arizona, to buy a kayak. What was parked under the entry awning stopped me in my tracks: a bright yellow BMW GS resting on its sidestand, a chunky, knobby tire sticking out onto the sidewalk. I had never seen a big adventure bike in person, and certainly not something that looked this impressive—I was smitten. Now, fast-forward to 2025, when my pal (and podcast cohost) Matt Scott decided to sell his clean 2004 GS Adventure, already loaded with half of the Touratech catalog. I jumped at the offer, as the only thing better than buying a friend’s used motorcycle is buying a Matt Scott used vehicle.
In stock form, the 1150 GS Adventure is packed with features, including a massive 7.9-gallon (30-liter) fuel tank, an enduro seat, 0.8-inch-taller suspension, a lower first gear, and adjustments to the fuel injection to allow the use of lower-octane fuel. This unit was also equipped with the optional two-level heated grips and servo-actuated linked ABS braking. While tame by modern standards, the bike was ahead of its time, with a dual-spark, 1,130 cc flat-twin making 85 horsepower and a notable 75 pound-feet of torque. The engine is air- and oil-cooled, which minimizes complexity, making the 1150 one of the most reliable adventure bikes ever made.
For modifications, the goal was to use components known for their durability while making every effort to keep weight down. The 1150 is one of the heaviest GS Adventures ever made, although it is 23 pounds lighter than the current 1300 GSA. There are several opportunities to reduce weight, including changing out the entire exhaust (which saves about 12 pounds). But it is also important to be conservative with the weight of accessories and luggage. For this, I installed mostly Touratech parts, as they use a lot of aluminum and are known for their fit and durability. These accessories included valve cover skids, an engine skid plate, steering bumps, off-road pegs, and a rear rack.
For luggage, I installed Touratech luggage mounts and their new Zega Pro boxes in black. These boxes are both light and durable, with waterproofing and dust seals incorporated into the construction and lid. The boxes come off easily without tools, making them ideal for serving as camp chairs or for moving valuables into an accommodation. They are in two different sizes (38/45 liters) to accommodate the exhaust and maintain the overall width. For a tank bag, I installed the Enduristan Sandstorm, and on the back rack, I installed their Tail Pack filled with tools and spares.
Additional modifications were minimal, including a larger (and optically clearer) WRS windscreen, a robust phone mount, USB charging, bar risers, and a larger sidestand base plate. I also tried an experiment with the tires, installing a Continental TKC80 in the front and a TKC70 Rocks in the rear. For knobbies, the front tire is most important, with better stopping on the dirt and overall trail-line holding. The TKC 70 runs smoother and lasts much longer than the TKC 80 rear tire, while still providing sufficient traction for climbs, particularly when aired down.
With the accessories squared away, I took the BMW to MotoGhost in Scottsdale, one of the best independent shops in the Southwest for working on any year Beemer. I told the owner, Jeremy, to do all the work needed to ride around the world, and he did, installing premium fuel lines and connectors, a full service, new coil packs, ABS rebuild, and much more. When I rode away, I knew the 1150 was ready for any direction I pointed it, inspired by legendary adventures like the Long Way Round or Helge Pedersen crossing the Darien Gap. Looking back to the 1150 parked in front of the REI store so long ago, it took me a while, but I chose wisely.
Editor’s Note: This article was originally published in Overland Journal’s Spring 2026 Issue.
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