10 Things to Know About Overlanding Spain

Photography by Richard Giordano

It might sound cliché, but Spain is truly a country with something for everyone. An easy jumping-off point to France and Portugal, Northern Africa, the British Isles, or beyond, Spain’s convenient location makes it accessible for most overlanders traveling in Europe. While milder wintertime temperatures provide an escape for those from the north, snowy mountain passes lead to ski slopes for those itching to break out their boards. Summer months bring the hiking and biking season into full swing and ample opportunities to swim in the Mediterranean Sea, surf, or lounge in the sands of some world-class beaches.

While wild camping can be limited, Spain’s many off-pavement routes provide a refreshing escape from Europe’s tight restrictions. You’ll likely see a collection of local Jimnys and Pajeros taking to the local dirt tracks, weaving amongst pine trees and up steep, narrow sections to heart-pounding views. In Spain, each day is a culinary adventure for foodies, while those interested in architecture will fill their hours taking in cathedrals, basilicas, Roman bridges, mosques, and the unconventional works of Antoni Gaudí. World-class art museums, including Bilbao’s Guggenheim, are perfect for rainy days and art lovers. 

And the list goes on. It’s easy to daydream, but what about the practicalities? Where does one camp? How expensive is fuel? After spending two months in the country, I’ve broken down a few day-to-day tips below, listing 10 things to know about overlanding Spain.

Spain is Divided into 17 Autonomous Communities

Introduced as part of Spain’s new constitution in 1978, the country’s 17 autonomous regions (comunidades autónomas) and two autonomous cities were created to recognize cultural heritage. In addition to its own flag and coat of arms, each area has unique traditions, festivals, cuisine, climates, landscapes, and often, co-official languages.

In Asturias, which lies on the lush north coast of Spain on the Bay of Biscay and stretches to the interior Picos de Europa mountains, specialties abound, such as the Asturian language, blue Cabrales cheese, local cider (sidra), and fabada asturiana, a smoky stew of white beans, pork shoulder, and chorizo. 

Heading to the Mediterranean coast, Andalucía is home to flamenco, Islamic architecture such as the Alhambra of Granada, the fragrant smell of orange blossoms, and tasty treats like gazpacho, fried anchovies, and churros dipped in chocolate. Other autonomous regions include Aragón, Cantabria, Castile and León, Murcia, Castile-La Mancha, Catalonia, Extremadura, Navarre, La Rioja, and more. 

There are Regional Language Differences in Spain

Head to San Sebastián or Bilbao in Basque Country, and you’ll likely notice Euskera, or Basque, words written above doors, on road signs, and splashed across menu boards. Once outlawed by Spanish dictator Francisco Franco, Euskera has experienced a revival, and rightfully so. One of the oldest languages in Western Europe, it has been the co-official language of the Basque autonomous community since 1979. Say “Kaixo” for Hello, with the “x” pronounced as “ch.” Make sure you try the pintxos, a small snack similar to tapas that’s served on bread and skewered with toothpicks.

Another official language is Catalan, which you will find in Catalonia, Valencia, the Balearic Islands, and more. Galician is also spoken in Galicia. Note that these languages are not dialects of Spanish but are unique and independent. Attempting to speak each regional dialect may feel overwhelming if you’re traveling quickly. No sweat—just do your best.

From Mountains to Deserts, Spain’s Terrain is Incredibly Diverse

Although the country is the third largest in Europe, you don’t have to travel far to experience a dramatic change in scenery. Orange leaves and yellow needles accented twisting mountain passes; tight canyons led to grassy, cow-filled hills, and desert landscapes reminded me of Utah and Arizona. 

If mountains are your thing, the most well-known ranges include the Sierra Nevadas to the south, the Picos de Europa to the north, and the Pyrenees, which border France and stretch from coast to coast. As most of the country’s territory lies on the Iberian Peninsula, beach-goers and ocean lovers have nearly 5,000 kilometers of coastline to choose from, though much of it is jam-packed with vacationers in high season. 

Once you’ve had your fill of olive and orange groves, head to Tabernas, the lone desert in Europe and the original filming location of notable flicks such as The Good, The Bad and The Ugly, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, and Lawrence of Arabia.

Try Wikiloc for Off-Pavement Pursuits

Waiting to board a ferry from the UK to Santander, Spain, I was surprised by the number of ADV riders and tour groups eager to hit Spain’s network of off-pavement trails. Indeed, the country offers far more tracks suitable for 4×4 and moto trips than its neighbors, particularly along the Pyrenees in the summer months. 

Wikiloc is particularly popular for tracking and sharing off-pavement routes for Spaniards and visitors alike. The platform includes maps, downloadable GPX tracks, trip statistics, photographs, and points of interest. Note that sections of Spain’s trail network also form part of the 100,000-kilometer Trans Euro Trail, a remote motorcycle journey that spans Europe. GPX tracks are available to download at transeurotrail.org.

Luisa Bell wrote about the popular Smugglers Route, which is worth considering. Running through Andorra and into the Spanish Pyrenees, the track transports visitors through tiny hamlets and ski towns via the footsteps of pilgrims, peddlers, smugglers, and Spaniards looking to flee the Civil War.

Wild Camping in Spain: Know the Rules

Generally speaking, wild camping isn’t legal in Spain. It is, however, important to understand the country’s distinction between “parking” and “camping.” A campervan is “parked” as long as stabilizer legs or leveling blocks are not in use, nor are any tables, chairs, or awnings displayed. By this definition, overlanders may sleep inside, lift the roof, or open the roof window in designated areas; however, if any paraphernalia is visible, this is considered camping and is prohibited. 

Aside from designated campsites, each autonomous region has its own rules about where and how long you may park your van, motorhome, or overland rig. In the southern region of Andalucía, for example, camping on the beach is illegal, while camping on private land is “permitted, with the land-owners permission by groups under 10 people for no more than three days.” Due to the threat of forest fires, many communities do not permit campfires. 

You Can Camp at Vineyards, Olive Groves, and Orange Orchards

Camping among olive trees during the harvest season was definitely a highlight during my time in Spain. Enjoying an autumn sunset surrounded by silent giants with gnarly branches and silvery leaves—what could be better? As a bonus, the campsite owner offered a free tasting the following morning, including olive oil harvested and pressed just days earlier.

Parking options such as those listed as part of the España Discovery program link overland travelers with owners of restaurants, vineyards, and olive oil mills for unique stays across the country. We’ve also found stellar spots on the Park4Night app, including an avocado farm, orange grove, and vineyards (hello, wine tasting!). Farmers are often happy to answer questions about harvesting and life in Spain. Note that most sites require you to be fully contained (including a toilet and greywater tank).

Fuel is Expensive (Compared to US Prices)

In general, Spain’s diesel and gasoline prices were comparable to California at the time of writing; however, prices dropped by 10 percent as we headed farther south and averaged around 15 percent less than neighboring France and the UK. 

Chains such as Repsol, Cepsa, and Galp have consistent offerings, often including hot showers for a small fee, whereas fuel from self-serve stations like Petroprix was often around €0.30 less per liter. Petroprix did pump low-grade diesel and gasoline (95 RON), but you’ll find the good stuff (98 RON) at well-known, name-brand service stations.

Spain does have the occasional toll road, but most can be avoided. The question is whether the cost of the toll balances the fuel consumption and time required to take a detour.

Those with foreign propane-fueled stoves or heaters will need a disc-type adapter for most fill-up stations, which can be purchased prior to departure from Amazon or lpgshop.co.uk. 

Want to Understand Spain? Get to Know the Food.

One of the delights of traveling throughout Spain is trying out some of the country’s greatest culinary hits. Each region is proud of its cuisine, and, in some cases, many cities also have their own specialties. Orange-tree-filled Valencia is famous for Agua de València (Valencian Water), a potent but refreshing cocktail made from cava (Spanish sparkling wine), orange juice, vodka, and gin.

Tapas (or pintxos in Basque Country), including tortilla Española (Spanish omelet), patatas bravas (potatoes with spicy brava sauce), or tangy gildas, reveal a lot about the link between food, friends, and family, and socializing. Of course, regional differences are shaped by the environment and the seasons. Seafood is plentiful, olive oil is everything, and so is wine. I’ve found the best way to understand Spanish cuisine is to go into full stalker mode and eyeball the locals’ plates. I’ll have what they’re having, por favor.

Spain’s Self-Service Laundromats are Bomber

Spain’s ever-present lavanderías were a pleasant departure from the inefficient, coin-operated models I’ve become familiar with in North America and Europe. Our first one, located near a convenient park-up in the quaint mountain town of Las Arenas de Cabrales, was quick, included soap, and allowed us to pay by credit card or tap. Yup, the future is now. 

That being said, the self-serve laundromats aren’t for everyone. Those sensitive to certain brands of soap don’t get the choice to add fragrance-free suds, and the service isn’t cheap if you’re doing multiple loads and are on a tight budget. The cost ranges from €3 to €5 for a wash and €2 to €5 to dry.  

Spain’s hot summer temps and coastal winds are conducive to effective handwashing and air-drying, while the country’s damp winters and short days make laundromat visits a pleasant welcome, even if it’s just for the dryer.

Avoid Running Errands During Siesta Time

In Spain, the working day is split into two halves (9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and 5:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.), with many operations shutting down in the afternoon. Dinnertime is often late, with many restaurants or bars opening doors after 8:00 p.m. Depending on the region and time of year, though, many Spanish businesses, particularly some cafes and restaurants, close on Mondays. Note that historic municipal markets often open at 8:00 a.m. and close early in the afternoon. This makes sense as the seafood and produce are brought in fresh.

It became a running joke that, like clockwork, we always needed to stock up on groceries on a Sunday, when every grocery store in the vicinity was closed, or during the afternoon, during siesta time. Better to take a break, order a glass of tinto de verano, enjoy the poetry of Federico García Lorca, or attempt to decipher Salvador Dalí’s surrealist paintings to pass the time.

For more on Spain:

Bikepacking Spain’s Sierra Nevada

Overland Journal Podcast :: What You Should Know About Overlanding Spain

Destination of the Week :: Bardenas Reales, Spain 

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