10 Things to Know About Overlanding Botswana

Photography by Expedition Overland

Botswana offers the ingredients of a wild adventure. Hundreds of unpaved tracks made of thick sand and bone-wrenching washboard could keep an overland traveler busy for many months, if not years. Add fuel logistics and range considerations, regional raw meat restrictions, and the systematic destruction of your vehicle to the mix, and something is bound to break, go wrong, or get stuck. Oh, and don’t forget to factor in some of Africa’s deadliest animals.

But the challenges make up much of the fun and are well-balanced by the glow of a Kalahari sunset, the traditional song and dance of Okavango polers, or the nighttime trumpet of an elephant for the first time (or the hundredth). The lyrics of a local song ring true: “I shall never forget beautiful Botswana.” Indeed.

That said, Botswana does require some pre-planning. Here are 10 things to know about the country before you embark on your next trip.

1. Learning Some Basic Setswana Goes A Long Way

While English is readily understood throughout much of the country, Setswana (also commonly known as Tswana) is the national language of Botswana and is understood by around 90 percent of the population. Not only is it fun to practice a new language, but surprising Botswanans with a genuine attempt goes over like gangbusters and usually elicits a hearty grin and a warm laugh.

Here are a few basic phrases to break the ice. Typical practice is to include mma when addressing a female and rra for a male.

Hello: Dumêla mma/rra
Yes: Ee
No: Nnyaa
How are you? Le kae?
Thank you: Ke a leboga mma/rra (“LE-BOHA”, as “g” is generally pronounced as an “h”)

Tswana is pronounced “TSWAA-nah.”

2. Reserve Your Campsites As Early As Possible in Botswana

Campsites within Botswana’s national parks, game reserves, and community concessions are the most sought-after as they are often accessed via long, unpaved tracks, instilling a feeling of true remoteness. Camp spots are usually unfenced, meaning animals may wander through at any time. Case in point: witnessing a pack of wild dogs in hot pursuit of their prey was incredibly exciting to behold during my time at Khwai’s Magotho camp.

These basic but picturesque sites usually include facilities such as ablutions and a pit to braai or barbecue. Part of what makes these spots so special (and what can make them difficult to book during peak tourist season from July to October) is that there are so few of them. For example, Moremi Game Reserve’s Xakanaxa campsite has only 10 sites, and reservations are mandatory. Here are a few tips to help solidify your itinerary, including the best of what Botswana has to offer.

National park, community concession, and game reserve campsites need to be booked through management companies such as the Xomae Group, Kwalate Safaris, and SKL camps. Note that national park fees are not included and must be prepaid at a Department of Wildlife and National Parks office or the park gate (bring cash, just in case).

Round out your route by booking campsites outside the national parks, community concessions, and game parks, especially in towns such as Kasane and Maun. These are easier to secure, and many can be contacted directly.

Botswana Footprints is one of several companies that, for a reasonable sum and a pre-planned itinerary, will book campsites for you, including park entry fees.

3. Use Tracks4Africa Maps for More Accurate Driving Times

I’m a huge fan of paper maps. They provide a large-scale perspective and are easy to unfold and mark up with a pen on the fly. I used Tracks4Africa’s paper map of Botswana every day (sometimes multiple times per day) during my time in the country. Driving times can be challenging to estimate because the terrain varies so much—from flat salt pans to violent corrugations, sections of potholed pavement, and thick sand. This is important because driving after dark in Botswana is a major no-go and safety risk due to animal activity.

Fortunately, the Tracks4Africa maps include drive-time estimates, which I found surprisingly accurate. These weren’t just from city to city, either. Each stretch of road or track is broken into kilometer lengths and drive times. Of course, these figures do not factor in lunch stops, bathroom breaks, mechanical snafus, or game viewing. Plan accordingly and double-check with a backup GPS device or app.

4. Pay Attention to Fuel Range and Availability

Certain areas in Botswana require overland travelers to carry extra fuel. The 611-kilometer unpaved stretch from Kasane to Maun through Chobe National Park is one, as there are no fuel stations in between. If you decide to venture farther (which you should, if you have the time) into the Khwai, Linyati, and Moremi game reserves, the extra kilometers, sandy or rocky routes, and any potential game drives need to be factored in as well. If the iconic and expansive Central Kalahari Game Reserve is part of your itinerary, fuel pre-planning will be required.

5. Certain Tracks, Roads, and Parks Require 4WD in Botswana

You need a 4×4 vehicle to self-drive most of Botswana’s national parks. This is a mandatory rule for good reason. Tracks are sandy and can become muddy in the rainy season. In addition, signs posted at the park and game reserve entrance outline the area’s speed limit. Typically, you want to stick below 40 kph to ensure the safety of the wildlife (and yourself) and to keep dust down. Finally, note that in Botswana, drivers keep to the left-hand side of the road.

6. Practice Proper Self-Drive Safari Etiquette

Seeing elephants, giraffes, leopards, lions, rhinos, etc., in the wild is exciting, especially for the first time. Watching the awkward run of a curious giraffe, baby elephants swimming in the Chobe River, or a leopard sleeping off a meal in the shade of a large tree elicits an indescribable feeling of awe, fear, and reverence. Thankfully, I learned a lot from local guides and overlanders about staying safe, respecting the animals, and enjoying the experience. Here are a few tips (hint: this is not an exhaustive list by any means).

Give wildlife lots of space. Elephants temperament, for example, varies by region and often reflects how they’ve been treated in an area. Their long memories may have been affected by poaching and civil war. Educate yourself on the signs and signals exhibited when animals feel threatened.

If a safari group has congregated around an animal sighting, either work your way in respectfully, snap a few photos, and leave, or patiently wait until the other vehicles have departed. Turn off your engine, speak quietly not to frighten the animal, and keep your limbs inside the vehicle.

Never shine your headlights, flashlights, or spotlights directly into the animals’ eyes during night drives.

Have fun! The longer you stay in the area, the more you’ll see. And if you have the means, consider hiring a local guide for a more in-depth education on the region and animals.

7. Expect Animals to Roam Through Camp

Listening to hyenas cackling or hippos grunting from the comfort of a rooftop tent is quite the experience. A whole world of activity is going on while you rest in peaceful slumber. But the reality of nighttime darkness is a humbling one: we, as humans, are vulnerable.

Some campsite rules state you must not leave your tent at night, so pack your pee bottle (or the like) accordingly. After sunset, it is generally good practice to scan your surroundings with a flashlight from time to time, remain vigilant, light a fire, and keep children under supervision.

During the day, baboons and vervet monkeys may make an appearance. If they do, guard your belongings or pretend to fire a slingshot in their general direction. Of course, keeping a tidy camp and not leaving food out is good practice wherever you go.

8. Maun and Gaborone are Hot Spots for Overland Gear and Mechanics

Located in central northern Botswana, Maun is an overlanding hub and jumping-off point for the Okavango Delta and beyond. This is the place to stock up on groceries, fuel, water, and camping supplies if you need them. If you are on a fly-and-drive self-tour, Maun is a convenient location to rent equipped 4×4 vehicles; plus, many of the best parks and reserves are within a day’s drive. For camping supplies and vehicle parts, head to Riley’s Garage and Autozone. There are many mechanics to choose from; iOverlander lists plenty. For braai meat, visit Beef Boys or Delta Meat Deli.

Gaborone, the capital of Botswana, lies in the southeast corner of the country, approximately 15 kilometers from the South African border. Home to the nearby Mokolodi Nature Reserve and the Gaborone Game Reserve, the city also offers solid options for parts stores, vehicle repair, and supplies. Associate Editor Stephan Edwards lived in Gaborone and recommends Hi-Range Safari City.

9. Veterinary Fences Dictate the Movement of Meat in Botswana—Plan Accordingly

In Southern Africa, foot-and-mouth disease is controlled by restricting the movement of animals through veterinary fences and by banning the import of raw meat and animal products such as unpasteurized milk and cheese. These restrictions apply between neighboring countries (at international border posts) and within the country (at veterinary fences).

In Botswana, vet fence restrictions allow you to move meat from south to north and east to west. However, you may not move meat from north to south and west to east past the vet lines as the northern regions are classified as foot-and-mouth infected zones.

Our itinerary took us northbound from Johannesburg, South Africa, into Botswana to Kasane, and west to Maun, so we did not encounter vet fence controls in that direction (Namibia was another story). If you are traveling in the opposite direction, your coolers, iceboxes, or fridges will be subject to search. You may also be asked to walk on a mat filled with disinfectant solution at some of these fences.

Vet fences are indicated with a prominent red line on the Tracks4Africa Botswana paper map, app, and website. Most inspection points are also cataloged in the iOverlander app.

10. Head to the Chobe River or Okavango Delta for a Different Perspective

From time to time, it pays to leave the vehicle behind and explore by water. This is especially so in Botswana, as the Chobe River and Okavango Delta offer an entirely different perspective. Each year, summer rains travel from the Angolan Highlands to the Okavango—the world’s largest inland delta—bringing abundant wildlife to the region. Taking a traditional dugout canoe, or mokoro, tour with a local poler into the delta is a highlight of any trip.

Meanwhile, the Chobe River, which marks the northern boundary of Chobe National Park, has a great congregation of elephants, hippos, and other bountiful wildlife during winter; birders will be richly rewarded in the summer months. All kinds of boat tours leave from the town of Kasane. Have yours wrap up at sunset for something truly spectacular.

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