Thirty-five years ago, Andy, a forester from Oregon, crossed paths with Dawn, a Californian arts administrator, while they were both studying in New York City. Andy proposed a year into their relationship amidst a snowy Vermont cross-country skiing trip. Dawn accepted, but with the stipulation that their life together would be anything but conventional and would include global travel adventures. As we all know, life sometimes has a way of making decisions for you, and before you know it, your dreams are a postcard on the fridge in the house that became a necessity while building a life you might never have envisaged.
Three decades passed, and after raising three children, constructing two homes, and squeezing in short travel and outdoor escapades between career and life commitments, the couple found themselves without any pets or pressing commitments for the first time in a long time. The time had come; looking at each other, they asked, “How about now?”. Though they had not hashed out the specifics of their dream to travel the world, Dawn was initially surprised to learn that Andy envisioned an overland journey rather than hopping between planes, trains, and automobiles. Eventually, Andy convinced her, and they began researching the ideal vehicle for their overland adventures.
Despite Dawn’s early reservations, overlanding turned out to be an ideal fit for them. Driving their own vehicle offered unparalleled freedom to chart their own course. They enjoyed the comforts of their own space: a cozy bed, the convenience of cooking their meals, and the ability to sleep wherever seemed reasonable. Except for fuel expenses, the lifestyle proved to be relatively inexpensive for long-term travel. They often found free sleeping locations, ranging from pristine wild spots to less glamorous locations like abandoned quarries or truck stops. Overall, they found it more economical to live on the road than maintain a household in the U.S. And it was way more rewarding to live a life less ordinary; the couple had paid their dues, and now is their time. Deep in their fourth year of full-time overlanding, they couldn’t be happier with their lifestyle choice.
But, we are leapfrogging a few crucial details. Let’s start with a look at their overland vehicle of choice; you can often learn much of what you need to know about an overlander by the vehicle they choose and how they outfit it. The couple travel in a manual 2019 Toyota Tacoma 4×4 TRD Sport equipped with a Four Wheel Camper Fleet Flatbed that includes indoor sanitation facilities, an 80-liter fridge, a thermal pack, hot water heater, and furnace. Choosing Toyota as their vehicle brand was a clear decision, owing to its renowned reliability and global network for parts and services. Being a quiet and reserved couple, they felt the need for a personal sanctuary, something a rooftop tent wouldn’t offer. Cooking outside was also dismissed due to health risks like malaria and the attention it would draw when wild camping. These considerations steered them toward a vehicle with an enclosed living space; the Four Wheel Camper fits the bill.
The decision was made to invest in entirely new equipment to minimize future repair and breakdown issues. In December 2018, the journey began with the acquisition of the 2019 Toyota Tacoma for $32,500. The overall expenses, including the cost of all modifications and the camper, reached a grand total of $110,000. It represented a daunting commitment but also an investment in a dream.
A slew of upgrades were implemented with a conscious attempt to control weight gain through the use of lightweight components. The suspension was enhanced with ARB’s Old Man Emu BP-51, Total Chaos upper control arms were installed to optimize front-end travel, and custom rear leaf springs from Deaver Spring were chosen for the full-time camper setup. The wheel rims were switched to a lighter and more robust version from American Racing shod with BF Goodrich KO2 all-terrain tires. The differential gears were reconfigured to 5.29 gear sets from Nitro, along with upgrades to ARB locking differentials for both front and rear, and ARB differential breathers were added. The braking system was upgraded to include Toyota TRD semi-metallic pads, Stoptec slotted rotors, and braided brake lines.
Additional changes comprised a CBI T3 aluminum front bumper, Warn Zeon 10 winch with synthetic line, and a 20-inch lightbar from Baja Designs. Underneath, only a front skid plate in 1/4-inch aluminum was added for protection. A Long Range America 33-gallon gas tank replaced the stock 25-gallon tank. Over a span of three years and 100,000 miles, only $500 was spent on repairs!
Their initial plan was to transition into their truck and set off in February 2020, intending to cross the United States and then ship their vehicle to Europe in the summer. However, the onset of COVID-19 derailed these plans. Their maiden voyage turned into an exploration of the western United States, effectively making their truck a quarantine haven. During a peculiar time when national parks and public lands were deserted, they managed to maintain a safe distance from others and stock up essentials in small towns. It took a few months to optimize storage and other logistics in their camper, but they soon settled into their overlanding lifestyle at their own pace. That year also deepened their fondness for the American Southwest, inspiring them to aim to visit every US National Park. Currently, they’ve visited 45 out of the 63 parks.
During that first year, they also spent six memorable weeks traversing the Baja Peninsula, an experience they consider a highlight. As travel had waned due to the pandemic, they often had entire beaches to themselves. Rarely do they spend two consecutive nights in the same place. Driven by a five-year global travel plan and an inherent restlessness, even their attempts to spend a week relaxing at a beach usually ends in them packing up after just a couple of nights.
Once global travel resumed post covid, the couple pulled the trigger and crossed the United States while shipping their vehicle from Baltimore to Liverpool. For the subsequent 18 months, they explored Europe, including the United Kingdom, with side trips to Ireland, Iceland, the Balkans, and the Baltics, often utilizing various ferry and shipping services.
While they find large cities generally off-putting, they do make an effort to experience cultural landmarks and visit top-rated museums and historical sites. Their journey through the Baltics marked their introduction to Eastern Europe. There, conversations with locals of various generations about life under Russian rule provided insightful perspectives. Tallinn, Estonia, left a lasting impression among the cities they visited, making their list of places to revisit for a deeper historical exploration. And then the real adventure began.
They often describe their journey along the coast of West Africa as the most challenging yet rewarding experience they’ve had. Navigating through expensive visa systems not designed for overland travelers, enduring hot and humid climates, and managing the relentless attention of friendly yet inquisitive locals have been testing. Specifically, entering Nigeria posed a particular challenge. The country only issues visas at embassies in one’s home country or airports, making overland entry complex and costly. The road from Nigeria to Cameroon was rough and remote, with sparse amenities. On one occasion, they even camped at a military outpost to ensure their safety. Despite these hurdles, they were touched by the exceptional hospitality of the locals and awed by the incredible scenery.
Regarding safety, they haven’t encountered malicious intent or theft and attribute this to a mix of caution and luck. They often seek secluded camping spots or opt for secured business premises like hotels or restaurants for overnight stays. They adhere to practical safety measures, such as not driving at night and steering clear of large cities unless necessary. That said, their most alarming experience involved the police in Togo, who threatened to arrest Andy for photographing them during a routine stop. Although the situation was defused after a lengthy negotiation, it led to the only bribe they had to pay throughout their travels. They’ve since adopted effective coping mechanisms for handling requests for gifts or bribes at military and police checkpoints, primarily by establishing rapport and making their unwillingness to pay clear.
What consistently impresses them is the warmth and kindness they encounter from people across the globe. Whether it’s fellow overlanders, small-town police officers, or fruit vendors, they find generosity in the most unexpected places. This has been incredibly heartwarming in Africa, where they have been graciously received despite the continent’s complex history with white explorers and colonizers.
Two countries that unexpectedly captured their hearts were Romania and Albania. Both offer compelling mixes of culture, architecture, and nature, with Romania presenting fascinating towns and mountain ranges and Albania offering rugged coastlines conducive to wild camping. For countries boasting extraordinary natural landscapes, Iceland and Norway top their list. While Iceland doesn’t allow wild camping, its remarkable vistas, national parks, and diverse terrain juxtaposing glaciers with volcanoes make it unforgettable. Norway also captivates with its mountainous landscapes, coastal routes, the Lofoten Islands, and fjords. The option to wild camp there adds an extra layer of appeal.
In Africa, their favorite destinations so far have been Morocco and Benin. Morocco delivers a well-rounded experience, from the Atlas Mountains to ancient medinas. Benin offers a cultural journey like no other; they’ve been welcomed warmly into homes, businesses, and churches, attending Voodoo ceremonies and finding the locals eager to share their beliefs.
So, how has the family back home reacted to the couple’s new lives? The couple’s three adult children are highly supportive, flying globally to visit and deliver car parts and offering emotional aid, even in risky locations. Despite some skepticism from friends and family, they remained committed to their unconventional lifestyle, fueled by the belief that life is short and the time to fulfill dreams is finite.
Reflecting on their experiences, they admit that slowing down could have enriched their travels. Taking time for unexpected stops or in-depth conversations with locals often yields invaluable insights, something they wish they had done more of.
When asked if they had any tips for those who yearn for a life filled with adventure but find the obstacles daunting, their advice is straightforward: set a goal and diligently work toward it. Through long-term savings and calculated sacrifices, they managed to achieve financial independence, enabling them to retire early and live their dream. The initial steps may be fraught with apprehension, but the rewards, they attest, are well worth it. Through their blog and shared experiences, they aim to encourage others, especially those in their retirement years, to realize that it’s never too late to embark on such a journey.
As for future travel plans, they intend to explore the East Coast of Africa before heading east along one of the Silk Road routes through Asia. Eventually, their journey will take them to the southern tip of South America, from where they plan to drive north back to their current home in Bend, Oregon.
For further details, visit www.roguewanderers.com or follow @2roguewanderers.
Read more: ARB Introduces New Old Man Emu MT64 Shock Absorber Engineered for Overlanding
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