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Photo Essay :: Riding Through the Land God Made in Anger

Namibia by Moto

The San people of Namibia refer to their homeland as “the land God made in anger.” It is an environment where rains may come only every 20 or 30 years, and temperatures soar in the oldest desert in the world. To some, that may serve as a warning to stay away. For adventure seekers looking to test themselves on a motorcycle, it’s an invitation to the experience of a lifetime.

Our off-road motorcycle campaign through Namibia in September 2022 saw us traveling over 1,500 kilometers in 11 days. The journey started in Windhoek, the capital of Namibia, heading towards the barren coastline near Swakopmund, then through the red sand desert of Sossusvlei and farther south through the country’s rolling plains and mountainous regions all the way to Cape Town, South Africa. 

Namibia offered us a wide range of places to stay throughout our time there. There were nights when we had a roof over our heads with a pool and hot showers, and some days we’d stay at a campground with a restaurant and local gemsbok wandering through. However, our most memorable overnight stay was wild camping deep in the ǀAi-ǀAis/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park.

The biggest attraction of Namibia for someone like myself who grew up in the Appalachian Mountains is that it is an extraordinarily vast and rugged country. We experienced days where we would ride for hours without seeing so much as a building or hut on the side of the road or even a tree where we could seek shelter from the intense midday sun.

While the riding was the trip’s focus, we also wanted to get a feel for the country off the bike. That meant meeting the locals, trying the local German-influenced cuisine, and exploring some of the country’s iconic locations. One of the most popular destinations we enjoyed was Sossusvlei. Sossusvlei is part of the Namib-Naukluft National Park. It is known for its towering red dunes and otherworldly landscapes. The welcome center at the nearby Sesriem Campsite told us that the dunes were best viewed at sunrise. Arriving at the dunes some 60 kilometers from the park entrance at dawn ensures that the sand is nice and cool for hiking and that you’re not rushed to return to the entrance gate before the park closes in the evening.

We’ll never forget a truly Namibian experience: wild camping in a dry river bed in one of the most remote stretches of the ǀAi-ǀAis/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park. Most of our group had never experienced pitching a makeshift campsite where we pleased, without a soul around. We were fully self-sufficient with plenty of water and food, and the Orange River was a short distance away for us to rinse off the road’s dust and grime the following morning. We followed the river the next day to the South African border post, where we were greeted with wide-open tar roads through the country’s westernmost region. Eventually, we found a much-needed detour where we left the main road to find dirt through nature reserves and seaside cliffs. 

What our group was fascinated by with this adventure was that each day was so incredible, and somehow the next day was even better. That’s one of the many extraordinary things about Namibia and something you can only experience for yourself. A motorcycle adventure through Namibia should be on your bucket list.

Just before arriving at the mighty Spitzkoppe Mountain, you’ll pass by some local traders selling various gems, crystals, and rocks from the area. This was one of the lovely ladies working there who wanted a photo, and with her smile, I couldn’t resist.

 

Isidoro and David relax by the campfire, already looking at routes for our next trip together in 2023.

 

Stephen heads west on his Triumph Scrambler toward the coastal town of Henties Bay from Spitzkoppe. This stretch of dirt road was incredibly vast, with our first encounters with mirages forming in the distance.

 

The massive sand dunes that run north to south along the coast from Swakopmund are a site to behold. Isidoro and David pose for a photo with the dunes behind them.

 

Isidoro aboard the Tiger 900 Rally Pro riding inland along the famous stretch of road between Walvis Bay en route to Solitaire. This stretch of road is over 200 kilometers long and offers diverse terrain, landscape, and scenery.

 

Isidoro, with his hands stretched out wide in amazement. The beauty of Nambia constantly blows your mind.

 

I doubt you’re allowed to pass this sign of the Tropic of Capricorn without taking a photo (or adding a sticker).

 

We arrived in the small town of Solitaire just in time to witness this incredible African sunset.

 

Sossusvlei is one of the must-see places when traveling to Namibia. It’s best viewed at sunrise, which is when we did. It’s quite a strenuous hike up soft Namibian sand, but going down is fun and quick.

 

The Deadvlei is a white clay pan located at the base of the Sossusvlei dunes. It’s famously characterized by dark, dead camel thorn trees contrasted against the white pan floor.

 

Our group headed to our next accommodation within the NamibRand Nature Reserve.

 

Typically, this land is covered in red sand. Due to recent heavy rains the year before, the Namibian grass made its presence known, contrasting nicely against the trail heading into the sunset.

 

Our campground here was located at the base of a hill that opened onto a vast grassland that Isidoro found hard to resist walking through.

 

If you’re not careful where you’re riding off the main road, you’ll get caught out by thick and loose sand. Luckily, help wasn’t too far behind to give the bike a push.

 

Our group heads through the windy conditions of the ǀAi-ǀAis/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park en route to our wild camp spot for the night.

 

Riders need to wear a visor or shades daily in the Namibian desert.

 

The range of the Triumph Tiger 900 and 1200 Rally Pros meant they were our preferred choice to navigate through Namibia. The bikes are fully capable, agile, and easy on the eye.

 

Leaving behind the ǀAi-ǀAis/Richtervsveld Transfrontier Park (and Namibia). Our next landmark on the map would be crossing over the Orange River, which separates Namibia from South Africa.

 

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Images: Joe Fleming

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A born and raised American, Joe is a US Army veteran who has been living in South Africa since 2013 with his wife, Monique, her son Madden, and their 4 rescue dogs. Joe is a photographer, a rock climber, and an adventure seeker and has been guiding motorcycle tours throughout Southern Africa since 2015 with his company Bonafide Moto Co. His first motorcycle was a 1983 Sportster that he turned into a chopper. Although he still has a Harley (The Freedom Machine), he now prefers motorcycles that will take him off-road. Current ride: Triumph Tiger 1200 Rally Pro.