The second we drove into the Besh-Tash Valley, part of a vast national reserve in the northwest of Kyrgyzstan, I fell in love. On our right, a river cut through the valley, winding past a handful of yurts, the two sides alternating between rocky walls and slopes with grassy fields and patches of vegetation in red and orange. While it was only early September in Central Asia, autumn was already on its way.
As the afternoon came to its end, we searched for a place to camp. The flat surface of a bridge was perfect, and while we expected no traffic so late in the day, it was wide enough to stand along the side without blocking the passage of other vehicles. A more idyllic spot was a small field just below us. However, it was taken by an elderly couple and their Lada Niva. They beckoned to join them, so we took a pack of cookies and walked down. Our hiking seat pads were discarded; they insisted we sit on their embroidered cushions. The woman took out some bread and candies, and we shared our food and sweet treats while we tried to communicate with our few words in Russian.
They lived in Talas and had come here for the day to enjoy some fishing and a picnic. Coen asked how big their caught fish were, and, not sharing a spoken language, he moved one hand across his other arm, from his fingers to his forearm and elbow, to get an indication of the fish’s length. The man stood up and, clearly content with his catch, took three fish out of his bag from four to twelve inches and immediately insisted we take them. It can be tough refusing gifts as people can be very insistent about it, but thankfully we could make it clear we are vegetarians, and that settled it. They packed up and returned home, we climbed into the Land Cruiser because, with the sun having set, the temperatures were dropping fast.
The Besh-Tash Valley
Early morning we were back on the road. I was wondering what set this valley apart from others because, quite frankly, Kyrgyzstan has countless awe-inspiring valleys (and other landscapes, too). Maybe it helped that after having bounced over hundreds of miles of washboard and rutted roads, the Land Cruiser, at last, rolled smoothly over a polished track of hard sand. The terrible creaking from our ancient Toyota (like scratching your nail over a blackboard) that had pierced our minds and bodies at the tiniest irregularity in the road surface had finally stopped, and the only sound now was the satisfying hum of the engine. We sighed with relief and relaxed in our seats.
Besh-Tash is a dead-end valley for vehicles due to a natural barrier of rocks. At an elevation of 9,800 feet, we set up camp at the far end of the river and hiked to Lake Besh-Tash. Two donkeys and dozens of sheep were grazing among the rocks, and their shepherd pointed out the easiest trail to follow among the boulders. The view of the azure lake was gorgeous, its energy strong. Going deeper into the valley would mean packing a backpack and tent for a multi-day hike. Inviting as that looked, we had other plans.
West Loop of Kyrgyzstan
For a week or so, we had looped western Kyrgyzstan, and the last stretch was from Besh-Tash to the reservoir of Toktogul. One option for reaching the lake was to backtrack to the main road, a 95-mile trip. Our guidebook Explore Kyrgyzstan: 24 of the Best Off-road Routes, mentioned a short-cut, a trail across the 11,000-foot-high Terek Pass, but there was a problem. The area was prone to landslides, and when the authors tried to cross it, it proved impossible.
Driving to the top of the pass and having to return because of rock fall might be a long, tough detour (if making a 180-degree turn was even possible on the narrow trail). But then, what’s an adventure if you opt only for certainties on the road?
As we were checking the map and weighing the pros and cons, two motorcyclists passed by. We waved in greeting, which they took as an invitation. They stopped, got down from their motorcycles, and sat down. Thus we met Kayrat and Talgat. Kayrat loved exploring the land on his bike and knew the region well. While from the nearby city of Talas, Talgat had never seen the lake, and Kayrat had just taken him there. Kayrat spoke English, worked and studied in Russia, and was home on vacation. I brewed tea, put a bowl with sunflower seeds and dried chickpeas on the table, and nibbled away while sharing stories.
They loved the Land Cruiser, and Coen gave them an issue of Overland Journal that featured a story of ours about the magic landscapes of neighboring Tajikistan. Overland Journal has proven to be a great conversation piece, whether in people’s homes or workshops. You don’t need to be able to read one word of English to enjoy the magazine’s magnificent photos. Kayrat assured us that the Terek Pass had been cleared, so after some days of relaxed camping, we packed up and hit the trail.
Across the Pass
We hadn’t picked the best of days; it was overcast and cold, with rain showers drenching the roadway. But the Land Cruiser seemed content, humming instead of screeching, so we were happy too. Hundreds of sheep were herded down the valley, crisscrossing the trail. It was difficult to maneuver because sheep are unpredictable in their behavior (very different from horses or cows) and may suddenly cross right in front of your vehicle. But then, we were in no hurry and greeted the shepherds on their donkeys or on foot.
We turned left and zigzagged up the narrow but well-maintained track. The ominous clouds added to the beauty and wildness of the mountains, the orange vegetation giving the landscape color when illuminated by an occasional ray of sun. It was easy to see where the landslide had been. While all the rubble had been cleared, the road was damaged, so we engaged 4×4 and were glad to be driving a high-clearance vehicle (and yes, having to turn around 180 degrees would have been tricky indeed with our Land Cruiser).
We reached the top without a hiccup, and from there, high above the tree line, we took in the view of a reddish wilderness of rocks, scree, and pebbles. A track had been cut into the mountain slope with hairpin bends requiring three-point turns, and I got out to guide Coen so he could use the maximum width of the terrain without a wheel accidentally going over the edge.
As we stopped for a break, two men passed by on horseback. With big smiles and obvious curiosity, they got off their horses and launched into an animated conversation in Russian about the Land Cruiser and who knows what else—we had no clue, but their enthusiasm was infectious. The shared confusion ended in a lot of laughter from all of us. One got behind the wheel for a photo, and they insisted we sit on their horses for photos of our own. They picked some blackberries and handed them to us as we said goodbye.
As we descended into the forest, there were no more vertical slopes of scree but a meandering trail regularly crossing a river. Where necessary, I coached Coen across the spans to avoid hitting big rocks in the water. In all, it was a day of great team spirit. We passed an occasional hut, then a row of houses, and eventually a hamlet. For a moment, we were back in a tiny slice of civilization. However, it was time for an entirely different kind of isolation apart from the mountains: the desert-like shores of bright-blue Toktogul Lake. The idea was to spend a night or two, but we ended up camping there for six weeks.
This corner of Kyrgyzstan has us in awe, and we encourage you to go and explore it when your overland travels take you to this part of the world.
Suggestions on visiting the Besh-Tash Valley
- Limited time:
It’s likely that at some point in your journey through Kyrgyzstan, you’ll drive M41 connecting the capital of Bishkek with Osh on the Uzbek border. Some 115 miles southwest of Bishkek, turn west to Talas, and 8 miles beyond the Manas Mausoleum (a big, beautiful monument you can’t miss) is the turn-off to Besh-Tash Valley.
- Plenty of time:
If you are in for a road less traveled and don’t mind bouncing up and down some washboard roads, the multiple-day, ‘western loop’ may be for you. Coming from Osh, this starts at Tashkomür and driving counter-clockwise is followed by Besh-Aral State Reserve, Chatkal Valley (enjoy the Five Lake Camp just west of the road), Talas, Besh-Tash Valley, Toktogul Lake. A detailed description is given in the guidebook Explore Kyrgyzstan: 24 of the Best Off-road Routes.
- Hiking:
Doing a multiple day-hike south to the Besh-Tash lakes, starting at the far end of the valley, looked like a gorgeous trip. However, it does require proper preparation before you enter the valley in terms of stocking up. The town on the main road just near the valley entrance has an extensive market as well as a proper supermarket.
Images: Coen Wubbels
