I generally plan two longer rides per year in spring and autumn. You avoid the crowds, summer prices, and generally enjoy the best temperatures for cycling (at least here in Europe). In typical Jack fashion, I crammed 2023 to bursting with a February kayaking trip in Bavaria, a March road trip around Slovenia, and then a scenic 2,500-mile route back to the north of Norway to begin a 6-month seasonal work contract. It was time to pay the piper. Sleep was reserved for special occasions, and espresso was served with every meal. Nevertheless, I was determined to commit to a bikepacking odyssey in the autumn.
I planned to tackle the infamous Wolf’s Lair (home to the Apennine Wolf) route created by Italian biking legends Giorgio Frattale and Francesco D’Alessio, better known as Montanus The Wild Side. The 388-kilometer (241-mile) route through Abruzzo and the Apennine Mountains links three national parks, climbs over 8,500 meters (27,887 feet), and is 70 percent unpaved. If you’d like a full breakdown of the trip, head over to bikepacking.com. The best time to tackle the ride is mid-May or mid-September, with temperatures and conditions being more challenging outside these weather windows. With this in mind, it would’ve been all too easy to postpone until the spring, but I was willing to embrace the suck to finally ride. The route can be completed in five days, but I would be working remotely throughout, so eight were set aside; I’m glad I did. Even without work, I think five days would be tough for non-experienced riders and perhaps rob some of the joy if you’d also like to spend time exploring off the bike.
The ride was all I’d hoped (and feared) for, and once again, Italy stole my heart. The national parks were majestic, the dirt switchbacks were cruel and euphoric in equal measure, and the high-elevation camp spots provided unobstructed views of the stars. Italian hospitality, culture, history, nature, and, of course, world-class food was served in porzioni abbondanti. The route during wintertime was not ideal and meant heavy rain, strong winds, and even snow. Subsequently, some sections became extremely boggy and, in parts, unrideable, which made for some sobering hike-a-biking. However, any bikepacker (or overlander) will appreciate that the toughest adventures are often the most memorable, and overcoming hardship is what makes these trips all the more meaningful. Giorgio and Francesco completed the route on gravel bikes but state that a “monster-cross or a 29er mountain bike could work better for the roughest and steepest sections.” I rode the latter in the form of my 29+ Surly Bikes ECR and feel this was the perfect choice. The ECR soaked up the rougher sections effortlessly and was better suited to the heavier winter pack list. The Wolf’s Lair is a wonderful ride and delivers on all fronts, which is hardly surprising considering it was conceived by a couple of locals who have gone on to produce some of the most epic bikepacking routes around the world.
On this trip, I used a collection of tried and true bikepacking products alongside some newer offerings. Below are some highlights, followed by a comprehensive breakdown of my pack list.
Apple iPad Pro 5th-Generation 12.9-inch w/Magic Keyboard
I’ve been a digital nomad for a decade, but until the ride, I had never seriously worked from my tent on a human-powered adventure. Love or hate them, Apple products just work, and the iPad Pro performed flawlessly. The premium Magic Keyboard was worth every penny, the battery life was excellent, cellular 5G kept me connected, and the M1 processor was lightning-fast. Further still, its slim form factor allowed me to slip it into my Revelate Designs frame bag when riding.
Nuke Sunrise Fuselage
The Fuselage is primarily designed for bikes with limited mounting points and straps securely to the downtube using two Velcro straps. The durable XPAC exterior fabric with Cordura ballistic nylon reinforcement protects the contents from the elements, while the 1.5-inch nylon webbing strap and non-slip material work in unison with the Velcro straps to reduce movement. The Fuselage is a better option than a generic bottle mount as it comfortably fits a 1.5-liter Nalgene bottle, protecting it from constant road grime, and can also be used for other items.
$25-30 | nukesunrise.com
Surly Knards
I’ve been using Surly Knards for over a decade, and they remain my go-to tire for every bikepacking trip. The only reason I won’t fit a set of Knards to a bike is if they’re not available in the size I need. They provide excellent grip in all conditions while also being the best-rolling all-terrain tires I’ve tested. The plus-sized 29 x 3-inch variant offers exceptional grip and mud displacement when aired down and roll with ease on pavement when fully inflated .
$varies | surlybikes.com
Portland Design Works 1817 Gloves
Inspired by the past, Portland Design Works (PDW) 1817 Cycling Gloves incorporate leather palms and crochet backs. Traditionally, I’ve used modern touring mitts with gel padding, so I was intrigued to see how these held up to abuse. The leather palm provided ample grip, and the airflow supplied by the crochet backs was impressive. As the days passed, the gloves molded to my hand and were exceptionally comfortable. My only critique is that on the first day of rain, the brown dye from the leather stained everything it touched, and I informed the company about the issue.
$30 | ridepdw.com
Oveja Negra, Bootlegger Fork Bag
Traditionally, I’ve used a fork cage and drybag combo, but on this trip, I tested the direct mount Bootlegger Fork Bag; designed to be a more streamlined, lighter (6 ounces), and secure solution. Features include urethane coated webbing for increased durability, a reflective logo, and a proprietary aluminum frame that bolts directly to standard 3x bottle mounts. It provides 2 liters of capacity and will fit up to a 40 ounce Klean Kanteen. During my ride, I fell in love with this product, which kept my belongings dry through multiple downpours and proved a more efficient solution for packing/unpacking the bike.
$80 | ovejanegrabikepacking.com
Hyperlite Mountain Gear Ultamid 2 with Full Insert
If you haven’t read my comprehensive review of the Ultamid 2 on Expedition Portal, you can read it here. I wanted to mention it again because it’s exceptional. It’s superlight, effortless to pitch, provides 4-season comfort, and is an apartment for two or a castle for one. It is significantly bulkier to pack (especially with the Full Insert) compared to my other tents, like the Trekkertent Phreeranger and Big Agnes Fly Creek HV UL2, but the added space was welcomed for remote working.
$700 (Ultamid 2), $400 (Ultamid Insert) | hyperlitemountaingear.com
Big Agnes Q-Core SLX Insulated Sleeping Pad
Big Agnes’ sleeping pads have a legendary reputation, so I invested in their most premium offering, the Q-Core SLX insulated sleeping pad (the latest equivalent is the Zoom UL Insulated), and never looked back. The comfort provided by this pad is exemplary, while the insulated design ensures all-night heat retention. Further still, it’s lightweight (at just 19 ounces) and packs down to a respectable size. A top tip is to also invest in the Pumphouse Ultra pad inflation pump, which weighs next to nothing and drastically reduces pad inflation time.
$180-$230 | bigagnes.com
Revelate Designs Nano Panniers
Micro-panniers find a sweet spot between traditional bicycle touring panniers and the lightweight backcountry-focused bags synonymous with bikepacking. Revelate Designs Nano panniers are constructed using 150D waterproof stretch woven Cordura, feature a zipper panel XPAC perimeter and inner lining, and utilize durable 840D ballistics material on the rack side. Despite 13 liters of volume (combined), they weigh just 16.4 ounces. Subsequently, they’ve become a staple on almost all my rides, whether I run them full to bursting or simply as bonus storage for extra supplies. The company has since released an updated model.
$250 | revelatedesigns.com
Surly Bikes 24-Pack Rack 2.0
The 24-Pack Rack is an ideal platform for any handlebar or basket bag. It’s big and pretty heavy (860 grams/30.3 ounces), but its practicality is hard to beat. Made using tubular 4130 Chromoly and measuring a considerable 270 x 400 millimeters, it could double up as a helicopter landing pad. Like Surly’s Rear Rack, it features various mounting points for securing gear and curves up at the rear (the latter is handy for wedging or lashing extra gear). The rack is also useful as a grab point for lifting the bike over obstacles.
$155 | surlybikes.com
Club Ride Apparel Fall Collection
I first tested Club Ride Apparel in 2021, and it quickly became a staple of my attire for both bikepacking and everyday. Their products blend technical functionality with casual everyday styling, which makes them ideal for an active lifestyle. On this ride, I lived in their fall collection, which endured the ultimate test as I battled all-day climbs in a variety of temperatures. A stand-out product was the Mahalo Coolmax Flannel, which incorporates 2-way stretch, quick-dry fabric, brushed metal snaps, underarm vents, reflective details, a sunglass cleaner, and multiple pockets.
Carradice Super C Saddlebag
I’ve owned my Carradice Super C Saddlebag for a decade, and despite a life of hardship, it remains unscathed. Established in 1932, Carradice has built a reputation for producing ultra-durable handmade bags for all styles of riding. The Super C saddlebag is constructed using 100 percent waterproof and breathable cotton duck canvas (from the Dutch word doek, meaning “linen canvas”), which is exceptionally durable and easily reproofed and repaired. It provides a generous 23-liter capacity, two good-sized external pockets, and can be attached in a multitude of ways.
$110 | carradice.co.uk
Specifications
Bike
Surly ECR
Selle Anatomica saddle
Surly Bikes front 24-Pack rack 2.0 and rear rack
Moon Meteor Storm front light and Merak rear light
Bags
RonsBikes large Fabio chest
Nuke Sunrise Giant Silo and Sunrise Silo feedbags
Nuke Sunrise Fuselage
Nuke Sunrise Gadget
Nuke Sunrise Titan tank
Carradice Super C saddlebag
Revelate Designs Nano panniers
Surly Bikes Moloko bar handlebar bag
Surly Bikes/Revelate Designs Mountain frame bag
Oveja Negra Bootlegger fork bags
Nittany Mountain Works Half Sack hip pack
Camping Gear
Hyperlite Ultamid 2 Tent with full insert
Big Agnes Stormking down sleeping bag
Big Agnes Q-Core SLX insulated sleeping pad
Sea to Summit Aeros Premium pillow
Cookware
Soto Helix coffee maker
Klean Kanteen vacuum-insulated 20-ounce bottle
Nalgene 48-ounce bottles (2)
Toaks Outdoors titanium 18.6-ounce pot and 15.2-ounce cup
Light My Fire spork
Firepot camp food (various)
Clothing
Bontrager Quantum Mips helmet
Ombraz armless sunglasses
Club Ride Apparel Autumn Collection
MPD cycling mitts
Sealskinz Extreme cold-weather gloves
The North Face Larimer mid-high-top shoes
Surly Bikes Merino tees and neck gaiter
Berghaus Extreme rain jacket and trousers
Electronics
Apple iPad Pro 5th-Generation 12.9-inch and iPhone 13 Pro Max
Tribit NC Bluetooth earbuds
Garmin Inreach Mini 2
Anker Gen Astro E7 96.48-watt-hour battery banks (2)
BioLite AlpenGlow Mini
Petzl Tikka RXP headtorch
Sony A7IV (with a 28-70mm and 11-20mm lens)
Canon Sure Shot 60 Zoom 35mm film camera
Mamiya 7 Medium Format film camera
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