Photography by Richard Giordano
Located within the central Peruvian Andes, UNESCO World Heritage Site Huascarán National Park is home to 27 peaks over 6,000 meters (19,685 feet) and the highest tropical mountain range in the world, the Cordillera Blanca. Hiking opportunities abound, but the most popular trek is to Laguna 69, a jewel-toned lake bordered by neck-strainingly high snow-covered peaks. The Cordillera Blanca is where I fell in love with the mountains for the first time, hiking amongst giants and realizing the power of the longest mountain range in the world. Some argue the Laguna 69 hike is too touristy to enjoy. In my experience, every step of the 12-kilometer hike was worth the lung-straining finale at 4,600 meters (15,100 feet).
Where to Camp
Set high in the Andes and with unbelievable mountain views, the Llanganuco Mountain Lodge is a convenient base camp to acclimatize before tackling various hikes in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range. British mountaineer and lodge owner Charlie Good is very knowledgeable about the area. Be sure to enjoy a cup of coca tea and peruse Charlie’s large collection of survivalist and apocalyptic-themed books while you’re there. The lodge is a 45-minute drive from the Laguna 69 trailhead, just off Highway 106.
There are a few camping options in nearby Caraz, including the Apu Ecolodge, the Yakurumi campground, and Camping Guadelupe Jaime Veliz Caraz. We had a great stay at Jaime’s place in 2015.
Camping is not permitted in Huascarán National Park; however, those jonesing for a multi-day trek can hike to the Pisco base camp, overnight at the refugio, and continue to Laguna 69 the following day.
What to Do
Before you do anything, spend a few days acclimating. Laguna Parón and several hikes from the Llanganuco Mountain Lodge should satisfy that requirement. Drink plenty of water, and you’ll be in tip-top shape. When you’re ready to tackle the Laguna 69 hike, visit the Huascarán National Park entrance to purchase your ticket and drive up Highway 106 to the trailhead (Cebolla Pampa), just before a series of intense switchbacks overlooking Laguna Morococha. Most round-trip estimates hover around 6 to 7 hours of hiking time to Laguna 69.
The towns of Caraz and Yungay mark the closest settlements to the Laguna 69 trailhead and are stop-off points to stock up on water, food, and other necessities. A few hours south, Huaraz is a popular destination for hikers, backpackers, and travelers and offers another park entrance with various tempting trekking opportunities, such as Laguna Churup. Laguna 69 tours depart from Huaraz, so if you’re keen to head out with a group or don’t have your own vehicle, many local companies provide transportation and a guide.
The best time to visit the central Peruvian Andes is during the dry season, which runs from May to September.
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