Pick up Truck Trailer/Exped. V.2

[gertrude]

I am new here to this forum and am revamping my camping/expedition trailer; I have searched some threads here but still have a few questions from the experts to help me along to ensure I am good to go. My trailer is a 8ft ford F-150 pick up bed with as much weight taken of as possible. Mainly all the unnecessary brackets, fuel system, brakes, and spider gears in the differential. I built it last year as a parts/utility trailer and because I soon ran out of room in my 94 Bronco. (Misc gear and the dog bed with a kid didn't help.) So I started taking it with me camping and long story short, I wanted a purpose built trailer for weekends in the mountains and still be able to use it for utility. Where I am at now is I the working trailer platform to build off, have 33 mud Terrains/alum rims and a Napier sportz tent III. My plans are to cut of the hitch and add a max coupler, 10lb Lite propane cylinder with American Van Freon tank mount, (it's cheap and the correct size) Valterra 9 gal fresh water tank with Rocket hand pump and a tongue storage box. There will other things, but these are the meat and potatoes.

The water tank will be mounted under the the trailer behind the axle and won't hang done to low, plus I will have a skid plate on its metal frame. Now I want to mount the storage box, hand pump and the propane on the trailer tongue. I want to first put sheet metal on the top of the V tongue to create a platform. Question is 1/8 thick be thick enough strong enough to hold the tongue box, propane and other misc goodies?

I also need to add a support cross member to between the frame rails for added strength and to butt the max coupler receiver tube to. I was thinking 1/8 steel and a rectangular tubing of 2x6 since the frame width is about 6 inches and it will have enough support for the receiver tube.

Lastly, I was looking at a 18" receiver tube; this should be a long enough extension for the tongue correct? The tongue length is now at 4ft and it has a pretty good balance. I know there are equations online, but just checking on your input.

Here a couple of pictures and thanks for any help! The tape measure is 18 inches if you can't read it.

 

[Xtreme XJ]

I abandoned everything forward of the bed... sleeved the frame... 1/8th. 3"X4". I also ran a backbone allll the way through to the rear... front is extendable AND !! worst case scenario the drawbar can be pulled and place into the "rear receiver" and pulled out by another or me if I can work around to the tail end of the trailer.
You might want to do something similar to get rid of the "belly" in the frame... is the O.E. rearend still in it ?? If so there is some lbs. to shed.

Mine has been a loooong & slow process...

I'd think 1/8th. would be O.K. for the deck, I'm sure others will chim in... lots. of potential there...


Curt

 

[gertrude]

Extreme XJ, thanks for the advice. I do like that idea of the backbone, building the frame and swapping the stock axle for a 3500lb one. I think I will be a little short on time and money in the next 5 months to really build the frame. I am finishing the bodywork, paint and interior on the Bronco right and want something for the summer. Although the frame would be a good fall/winter project!

 

[gertrude]

I think I will stick with the 1/8 sheet metal, for the tongue deck and 2x6 for the frame support and hitch support. Down the road I will probably revamp the frame with 2x6's. After looking at weights and all, I have decided to use my extra FF Dana 60 as my new rear axle to replace my 8.8. Some people have had to replace Dexter or other 3500 brand trailer axle after a couple years, so why not. I can make as light if not lighter then my 8.8 and it will be stronger. I just have to figure out if I will make more work and cut out the pumpkin or screw it and leave it.

I also am going with SWAG off road 24 gal action packer on the tongue, instead of a Northern Tool tongue box. I think it will be more usable and I can replace the rubbermaid cheaper then buying a new tongue box; plus it will give more room to mount hand pump too.

I will post update as I move ahead, it probably will be a slower build due to I am doing some bodywork and paint on the Bronco.

 

[skersfan]

40 foot 5th wheel trailers are built with 2x6, considerable overkill for a pickup bed. I would think the 1/8 inch steel would be way strong enough for you to do just about anything you want to. The frame may need a cross member up front, but really no need to run a back bone down the trailer center unless you really want one. As ugly as they are, truck frames are pretty strong, it would be near impossible for you to bend it as a trailer, unless you totally overloaded.

Good project, but think about half and you have it spot on.

 

[gertrude]

skersfan,
Thanks for your input; I am going to use a 2x6 for the front support/cross member/receiver tie in and worry about the frame redo later, if I build/modify it at all.
I am new to metal fabing and wanted to be sure 1/8 was good. I will mainly using it for the tongue for my plating and for water tank skids.
Thanks again!

 

[gertrude]

So I was looking at my FF 60 tonight and thinking the pumkpin has got to go. Its a lot bigger than I remembered and I think it would drop a lot of weight. I measured the outside diameter at 3.125 inches and the inner at 2.5. To cut that out and sleeve it figure using a 2ft length of 2.625" OD, .250" wall DOM.

Any inputs on this? In theory I should be able to just cut pumpkin out where it goes in and sleeve with the DOM and make sure its even, not sleeved lop sided correct.

Seems easy and worth it, just trying to get my facts straight.

 

[gertrude]

The more I look into this I think this a no go. I don't think this will work without the drums and I think the diff circulates the oil down the axle tubes and on to the wheel bearings. If not, I at least would have to buy new spindles and sleeve it, which equals more time and money then its worth.

If anyone has any input let me me know, otherwise I will stay with the 8.8 or submit and get a 3500 trailer axle.

Thanks for any help!

 

[Mark Harley]

Just order a new axle fit to your needs, Width, weight required and the correct lug pattern.
You will happier in the end.

 

[Xtreme XJ]

Just order a new axle fit to your needs, Width, weight required and the correct lug pattern.
You will happier in the end.

X2... maybe a 5000 lbs. one ??? I did a 3500 lbs. one and my bed is smaller than yours... I'd think about the brakes & EZ lube set up also... maybe without the spring pads cause if you use your O.E. springs they are wider than the little ones provided with an axle. One of those extra $ things that is forgotten.

Curt

 

[gertrude]

Agreed,
I will finish everything else on the trailer first and then buy a axle of my liking. I am just frugal and like to try and use what I have!! I think the ez lube would be good and the trailer brakes to, since it's going to be used more off road.

After looking, I have decided enough of trying to make everything work, I am just going to use the 8.8 until late summer, then get a 5200 with E brakes.

Thanks for listening to my ramblings!

 

[elmo_4_vt]

I think you need to go for the 3500lb trailer axle... I bet the difference in weight is at least 250lbs between the two. It was hard lifting a FF60 with two people, and I can through around a 3500lb axle with ease. Besides, that way you can have brakes and a parking brake if you want it. I wouldn't want to tow something that heavy with my Bronco without trailer brakes. Also, the reason I say 3500, is because I'm not sure you can get matching bolt patterns if you go with a 5200. Do you think you'll be above 3500lbs with the trailer?

Don

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[gertrude]

No, but i guess i was looking at more strength and durability by going to a 5200. I am still kind of on the fence but have a little time before I make up my mind. I may just try the 3500 and move up if i have nay problems with bearings or bending the housing. Thanks for your opinion!