Snatch block rating

obscurotron

Adventurer
I was hoping to get some wisdom about snatch blocks.

First, how does one determine the weight rating you need? I'm thinking since using one halves the work by doubling the pulling power by the winch, that you'd need one rated for at least 50% of maximum winch capacity + safety margin (20%?), so .70 x max winch capacity. My winch is a WARN M8000, rated at 8k lb, so 5600lb.

But I'm also thinking if you run the line from winch -> block -> hardpoint on the bumper holding the winch that you've now distributed your forces in 3 places, so the block only needs to be 33% of max pull plus 20% safety margin. Or, if you wedge the snatch block, then you're doing a straight pull against it (potentially, prior to something failing/snapping), so it should be rated for max pull + 20%, so 9600lb. Which is the best way to figure required capacity and if none of these are sane, please educate me!

Second, I see a broad disparity in prices. For example, a WARN unit (19,000 lb rating) goes for about $60-$65 whereas a Smittybilt can be had for $25 or so (17,600 lb rating) and even more expensive WARN units for upwards of $150 or a mid-priced WARN (only 8000 lb rating) for $40 or so. Is this a name-brand issue or a quality issue? I don't mind spending money for quality and reliability and safety, but I prefer to do so as informed as possible.

What part of the picture am I missing? FWIW, the WARN winch is mounted to a 2004 Tacoma, curbs in about 3700lb and with me and gear probably hits about 4000-4100 (shell, ARB bumper, FROR rear bumper, tools, fuel).

Thanks!
 

GeoScum

Adventurer
Your math is from Mars and is potentially very dangerous. The force on a snatch block in a simple two-part ( U ) set up is two times the force applied to it. So with a winch rated at 8,000#, you could conceivably apply 16,000#s to the block
 

broken1

Observer
and THEN a safety factor added on. There is a great article over on p1rate... let me find it... here it is:
http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Recovery/

The weight of your Taco is one of a myriad of factor that impacts the perceived load on the winch line and hence the anchor...

also remember that once the snatch block is in the equation everything else past it has to be up to that X2 pull. The shackle you couple with, the tree strap, the tree itself... It gets a little rough. I would want the block, and everything touching it other than the winch line to be rated for >20k. I have a 12k warn on my LJ and it is good for everything I have asked of it. I do not have snatch block yet, but finding everything in 30k rated or more has been a little more difficult.
 
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GeoScum

Adventurer
I was basing the name plate rating on the fact that most equipment will already has a safety factor built into it's SWL. Equipment made for vertical overhead industrial lifting has a SWL based on 5:1.

Rock climbing equipment has a name plate rating of ultimate failure with no SWL
 

lcsodiver

Adventurer
Be aware that most of the equipment marketed to the 4x4 community is rated at FULL BREAKING STRENGTH. The only thing that usually has a 4 to 1 or 6 to 1 safety rating is shackles. If you go to a true rigging shop most of the stuff there will have a SWL (safe working load) rating.

Where do you live? If you are around here Oregon USA, I would be more than happy to get together for a day and go over what I carry and some basic rigging techniques.

If you do go to a rigging shop explain what you are doing and what you think you need, they should be able to help you. Good luck and stay safe! Bob
 

Master-Pull

Supporting Sponsor
These guys are spot on with their assessment of rigging loads and safety margins. There is a reason why we used to sell blocks rated to 33k lbs for offroad use. Now we sell a 45k and 60k block for the military and are coming out with a ~30k block that will use a molded roller specially made for synthetics.

Be very careful when using cheap recovery gear, the good stuff costs more for a reason. Take a cheap block, roll it around in the sand and then try to turn the roller. The cheap ones aren't sealed and can be harmed pretty easily. Whereas a good block is sealed and wont let dirt or grit into the moving parts. A good block can stand up to the environment it is being put through and will take alot of abuse.

-Alex
 

broken1

Observer
Thank you for the link. Going off to read & learn something now!

yea that page is a real wake up call. A few of the pictures are from the DOD winching and rigging manuals. I stumbled across that page a while ago before I had a winch but saved the link, an amazing amount of science and math there, but once you chug through it you figure out a lot that is not obvious. I always thought if the winch is rated for more than the weight of the vehicle it must be good enough for the vehicle since it could pick it straight up. Then you hear the stories about so and so was stuck in some thick mud and couldn't even winch out with their 8k and I always wondered how that could be.

a 4000 pound jeep stuck to the frame (X300% = 12,000) on a 15% up hill (+25% = 1,000) would look like 13,000 pounds, NO 8k is going to move them like mired that. You're going to have to have a snatch block (16K)
 

77cruiser77

Observer
I just bought a snatch block. I called places around town for either a warn or a ARB but seeing how I wanted a 25K rating I found prices in the 150$ range. My winch by the way is a 8274 warn so it says 8000 but I've heard its good for 10k. Double this = 20,000 if I work it as hard so for a snatch block for me I want a min 21k but probably more so if I do work the winch as hard as I can I won't have to worry about straining other components. When I talked to one shop he said he doesn't carry the warns anymore because you can get the same one from a rigging supply store just down the street without the warn sticker and at 60$ after taxes. He says if he gets em in they take forever to move.

I say learn how to rig up lines and get a basic understanding of the physics in forces. Then learn how to a tell a good block from a cheap one (quality that is, not price) and go to a rigging place and see what you can find. For me I got a 3ton WLL (working load limit) block. WLL has a safety factor of 4 or 5 (I always assume 4 in my math) so my block 3 tons = 6000lbs x 4 = 24000lbs to work with. At this rating I can burn out my winch and not have to worry about ruining my block too. For the record I believe my block looks exactly the same as the warn too.
 

Eventhough

Explorer
I just bought a snatch block. I called places around town for either a warn or a ARB but seeing how I wanted a 25K rating I found prices in the 150$ range. My winch by the way is a 8274 warn so it says 8000 but I've heard its good for 10k. Double this = 20,000 if I work it as hard so for a snatch block for me I want a min 21k but probably more so if I do work the winch as hard as I can I won't have to worry about straining other components. When I talked to one shop he said he doesn't carry the warns anymore because you can get the same one from a rigging supply store just down the street without the warn sticker and at 60$ after taxes. He says if he gets em in they take forever to move.

I say learn how to rig up lines and get a basic understanding of the physics in forces. Then learn how to a tell a good block from a cheap one (quality that is, not price) and go to a rigging place and see what you can find. For me I got a 3ton WLL (working load limit) block. WLL has a safety factor of 4 or 5 (I always assume 4 in my math) so my block 3 tons = 6000lbs x 4 = 24000lbs to work with. At this rating I can burn out my winch and not have to worry about ruining my block too. For the record I believe my block looks exactly the same as the warn too.

Be careful with your math. Are you assuming the WLL is 4 or 5x? I've seen WLLs as low as 3x for cheap rigging equipment, and even once as low as 2x IIRC. I've looked at many many pieces of recovery gear both domestic and foreign (for importing) and have been shocked at times. I would also want more of a safety factor than a few thousand pounds over what you think your winch could pull. Add in a little pop of dynamic weight (imagine winching over a steep obstacle and your vehicle gets ahead of your winch's line pull) and you'll start breaking gear.
 
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LR Max

Local Oaf
I used an ARB snatch block (rated 2x + some change what my winch is rated) to pull up this truck and put it back on the trail.

P1080751.JPG


Done. Works. Problem Solved. Problem staying solved.
 

Steel_City_X

New member
I am looking for a snatch block that can accommodate a 5/8" Samson Stable Braid rigging rope for some trail clearing activities.

Not using a winch to pull the minimum 28 12"-18" diameter trees that have been blown down across a mile long trail to our cabin. We'll be using the snatch block to pull the fallen trees off the trail back into the woods where nature can take care of them.

Any suggestions? I'm finding some pricey ones, but I want something less expensive.
 

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