Missing the Mark?

Titanpat57

Expedition Leader
Hi All,

The new build is under way and I have a question.....

I stripped off the landing leg and surge brake on the M116A2(anybody that wants it welcome to come get it before I chuck it) and the plan is to add 3"x 1-1/2" box steel under it, some 3" sqaure tube and a standard 2" coupler.

Now the problem....

Should I incorporate in the new tongue design for the Max Coupler? My off roading will be minimal, and really the cost is immaterial....I just don't want to kick myself in the ***** two years down the road.

Does a standard coupler have that little articulation that it won't do well in some rough terrain? I know there was some issues in the past with some brand bending, although I don't remember which one.

All thoughts are welcome, thank you in advance.

Pat

Ive included a pic to show the starting point.

roam6.jpg


roam7.jpg
 

XJBANKER

Explorer
I vote for the hitch. Why not overbuild so if you ever need it you have it. I have yet to use my winch on my jeep but I am happy that I have it.
 

HenryJ

Expedition Leader
My vote would be to add a receiver tube. You can just add a ball coupler to a 2" tube and use that until you decide you want or need more articulation. All ready for a Max Coupler.
This also allows you to lengthen or shorten as needed.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
My vote would be to add a receiver tube. You can just add a ball coupler to a 2" tube and use that until you decide you want or need more articulation. All ready for a Max Coupler.
This also allows you to lengthen or shorten as needed.
EXACTLY what I was going to suggest as well. Two of my trailers are set up like this and I wouldn't have it any other way.
 

Titanpat57

Expedition Leader
Ok..Thanks guys!..I think this is what you mean?

(and don't think I'm doing that "coming to a point and welding all kinds of crazy angles crap" like Rob and the Wyoming Kid..coz it ain't happening!)

ROAMTongue-1.jpg
 

1x1_Speed_Craig

Active member
My vote would be to add a receiver tube. You can just add a ball coupler to a 2" tube and use that until you decide you want or need more articulation. All ready for a Max Coupler.
This also allows you to lengthen or shorten as needed.

x3

I'm just about to do this with my M101A3 trailer. I already have the Max Coupler, but even if I didn't, a removable receiver-mounted 2" coupler is a great theft deterrent, and allows a great deal of flexibility.


Ok..Thanks guys!..I think this is what you mean?

(and don't think I'm doing that "coming to a point and welding all kinds of crazy angles crap" like Rob and the Wyoming Kid..coz it ain't happening!)

ROAMTongue-1.jpg

What's the purpose for building the structure on the bottom side of the tongue vs. in between the frame rails (I'll be building mine in between)? If it's to align with the vehicle hitch height, you can adjust for the rise/drop there within reason. Just curious...

Looks like you have a great plan with your trailer. Good luck!


Craig
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
I would build something like this, and bolt it in place using the existing bolt holes:

attachment.php
 

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R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Does a standard coupler have that little articulation that it won't do well in some rough terrain?

FWIW, I cannot BELIEVE the places I've seen people take standard camping trailer in the back country with a ball hitch.

would build something like this, and bolt it in place using the existing bolt holes:

Nice design.

I can't believe how fast you are to sketch these things up. I wish I was that good in 3D.
 

1x1_Speed_Craig

Active member
Nice design.

I can't believe how fast you are to sketch these things up.

Agreed! The stock setup only uses one set of vertically-positioned bolts, though (not two sets), along with a BIG through-bolt that passes through the bracket, and also holds the safety chains. The through-bolt gives it the triangulation for the support.

An extra set of holes would have to be drilled for this set-up...not a big deal. OR, the bracket could always be welded on.

ntsqd - You do great work, and your ideas/drawings have been extremely helpful to me (including this one). Thanks!


I wish I was that good in 3D.

Maybe you need to get some of those fancy cardboard glasses. :wings:


Craig
 

john101477

Photographer in the Wild
I would build something like this, and bolt it in place using the existing bolt holes:

attachment.php

X2
I would not add anything lower than what is absolutely needed. almost to the point I would rather brace the original stuff more than add stuff lower
 

wjeeper

Active member
I have been looking at a standard ball set up my self. I have had a pintle set up in the past and although it was bullet proof on washboard roads the rattling drove me nuts! And being a poor college student several of the "offroad hitches" are just too far out of reach.

I played around with couplers at a several local trailer supply places and i found that a bulldog coupler offered the largest range of motion of any ball type i found. Not to mention they look much better built (cast steel vs thin stamped steel) There were several brands of cheap stamped steel couplers that had vitrually no articulation at all! They were so poor I imagine you might even have trouble pulling in and out of a driveway.

Sorry they are just crappy cell pics but hopefully they help out
0501101028.jpg

05011010272.jpg

(Although the black coupler appears it could flex more it is actually bound up)

FWIW I have decided I am going with a bulldog coupler. (I am building a trailer that wont see too aggressive of trails)
 

wjeeper

Active member
And for sure add a reciever tube on the trailer. If you change your mind on what coupler/ tongue length to use its a simple change over.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
FWIW, I cannot BELIEVE the places I've seen people take standard camping trailer in the back country with a ball hitch.



Nice design.

I can't believe how fast you are to sketch these things up. I wish I was that good in 3D.
Agreed! The stock setup only uses one set of vertically-positioned bolts, though (not two sets), along with a BIG through-bolt that passes through the bracket, and also holds the safety chains. The through-bolt gives it the triangulation for the support.

An extra set of holes would have to be drilled for this set-up...not a big deal. OR, the bracket could always be welded on.

ntsqd - You do great work, and your ideas/drawings have been extremely helpful to me (including this one). Thanks!

Craig
Thanks! I really enjoy being able to help others. If you think I'm fast you should see a co-worker. He boggles my mind sometimes.

X eleventeen on putting a socket on the trailer tongue. It opens up every option instead of constraining you to just one.

Interesting about the differences in couplers. Wouldn't have expected to see such a large difference.

I've been working on a multi-axis coupler design that would be fairly easy to reproduce. I've got a design, I need to build a prototype to see how well it really works. In CAD it looks great and I've not found any gotcha's, but.....
The premise is that any reasonably able home fabricator could make one. I need to test that out when building the prototype.
 
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