National Luna Power Pack - Solar Setup

[Wicked 2007]

I've been reading a lot around this forum and the sticky on solar setups and haven't come across anything on what I am interested in doing. Let me run down my current setup:

2 - Odyssey 31m batteries (one in engine compartment - main battery. one in my cab in a NLPP)

I run my 600w inverter, LED lights and ARB 50qt fridge off the NLPP. Other small accessories and CB run off the main battery.

I am interested in getting an 85w-100w panel (manufacture TBD) with a SunSaver Duo (unless there are recommendations for another charge controller)

My question is really on how to set this up correctly. Is it possible to use the single panel to keep both batteries charged/topped off? If so how would this be wired up simply like the diagram below?



I am sure I will have more questions but wanted to confirm I can even get my proposed setup to work before I move into final planning and implementation.

Thanks!

 

[Wicked 2007]

Here is a pic of my setup for now. I have the NLPP monitor on my dash.

 

[Wicked 2007]

wow - 180 views and no comments. i placed the order for my solar equipment today.

 

[Rotorgeek]

I'm a n00b for solar so I have more of a question. Is the rating on the charge controller a max input of 25 amps? I ask because your talking about getting 85-100 watts of solar panels.

Edit: Figured it out. Amps and watts.

 

[Spectyr]

Check out this thread. It has some good info on dual battery hookups and solar. It has real easy to understand diagrams and photos.

 

[spikemd]

100watts should compensate for the draw from the fridge.

What solar panel did you buy? Rigid, foldup, rollup? I haven't decided which panel I want yet.

 

[Wicked 2007]

100watts should compensate for the draw from the fridge.

What solar panel did you buy? Rigid, foldup, rollup? I haven't decided which panel I want yet.

I went rigid - the GS100 100w panel. I will be running through a blue sky charge controller (2512iX-HV) along with their IP Pro Remote meter. I ended up overbuilding my solution for future expandability/uses. Should have all the parts into today and work on the install in a week or so. Ill update with photos/pics.

 

[Wicked 2007]

Quick pic of install. I'm relocating the shunt and cleaning up wiring next but this is the home for the charge controller and remote monitor

 

[Honu]

looks good got a wider pic of it ?

 

[Wicked 2007]

Here is a pic of the panel when I was testing.

I terminated MC4 connectors behind my bed/cab are from the charge controller in the car. I can plug the panel in direct there and/or use the 25' extension cable to allow me to park in a shady area and extend the reach of the panel to the sun.

Also a spec sheet pic of the panel. This panel with the MPPT controller is great.





BTW - the guys at AMSOLAR (Dave in particular) are very helpful and technical with solar. after my search here and other areas I still had many questions and Dave helped me out a ton and we designed a custom kit for my application. After a few phone calls/consultations on the project, once I pulled the trigger - they shipped same day and literally was plug n play since they include everything down to the connectors, shrink wrap, etc.

 

[soul]

Thanks for sharing this, am planning to use the GO100 panel with CTEK D250S dual battery charger and yellow top battery to run ARB 50 liter.
I am not sure how to fit it on top of Mazda CX 9 though, may have to put cross bars on existing ski racks and do the mounting.

Ideally would like a removable setup, to move it near the tent area... may be later..

 

[Wicked 2007]

Thanks for sharing this, am planning to use the GO100 panel with CTEK D250S dual battery charger and yellow top battery to run ARB 50 liter.
I am not sure how to fit it on top of Mazda CX 9 though, may have to put cross bars on existing ski racks and do the mounting.

Ideally would like a removable setup, to move it near the tent area... may be later..

Do you have a dual battery setup? The charge controller I got allows you to trickle charge your engine battery in addition to charging your AUX battery.

You do not need to "mount" it on your roof. I decided to not mount it on the roof so I have the ability to locate the panel where I want and for optimal sun. You could store the panel in your cab until you reach your destination. I went with the GS100 since it was a little smaller and I was looking for the smallest package.

Ill be off on an extended trip later this month and will report back on performance and pics of it.

 

[soul]

That's the plan, am also thinking of LiFePO4 battery instead of yellow top. But then it takes a different direction altogether.

I like the idea of not mounting the panel, the latest A grade panels are very compact even at 100 watts. My fridge will arrive tomorrow.

 

[ExpedH3T]

My set up for 2nd battery and solar

NL power pack with an AGM deep cycle Excide battery.

4 Goal Zero 15W (60W total) panels chained (I already had them for the Escape 150).

Made my own plate to tie into a camera tripod

Goal Zero Battery charger to a weather-tite connector.

Stays way ahead of my ARB 50qt fridge

 

[goodtimes]

Hmm - I seem to have missed this thread - I've got basically the same set up in my camper.

100w CIGS panel from Global Solar, Sunsaver duo w/remote display, National Luna PPP & a group 31 AGM battery.

The 100w panel is plenty to keep up with a ARB 47l fridge & some LED lights (that's all I run off of mine). I had the fridge running for 6 days last week & didn't bother to plug the truck into the PPP. In full sun, with the panel mounted flat to my roof (IE: not tracking the sun), I was fully charged before noon each day. Of course I was in S. AZ with plenty of sunlight. Further north may not have the same results.

One thing that I did notice when I installed the solar panels, is that as soon it starts pushing power to the truck batteries, the NL Power Pack sees the increase in voltage and assumes that the engine has been started, so it connects the starting batteries & house batteries (normal operation mode when the engine is running). This would obviously be limited to the dual output charge controllers where one output is hooked to the main batteries & the other to the house batteries.

You could add a relay to completely isolate the two systems - but that starts adding complexity (potential failure points), and in a way, defeats the purpose of using a system like the National Luna PPP.