1992 Montero LS -NEW OWNER!

mnutz

mnutz

Observer
I guess I should say "soon to be new owner". I finally found a replacement for my Pathfinder. In the true spirit of adventure I'm taking the train 6 hours to pick it up. The owner has been really great with making the transaction easy. I'll post more pics when I get it back. I'm really excited!

Montero_004edit.jpg
 
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speedtre

speedtre

Explorer
mnutz said:
I finally found a replacement for my Pathfinder. In the true spirit of adventure I'm taking the train 6 hours to pick it up. The owner has been really great with making the transaction easy. I'll post more pics when I get it back.
Click to expand...

Congratz! I love Train trips, reminds me of taking the train to visit my grandparents in the country when I was a kid.
 
mnutz

mnutz

Observer
Got it home! Have a few questions now.

The trip was great, lots of fun. Truck drove perfect all the away back. I'll get some pics up ASAP. Couple issues...

1. Sometimes when you turn the key you get no start. Full battery power and all, just no starter crank. Just back out the key and try again, and it always starts on the second try. The owner says it has done that for about 3 years.

2. The sunroof will not open. Burned up motor? Or switch?

3. Truck has bouncy seats and headlamp washers, does this mean it should have LSD? Or is it anythings possible on 92s?

Thanks everyone!

Just remembered one more thing. Are these factory alloys really only 6 inches wide? So I'm limited to 30x9.5x15 until I get some wider wheels?
 
O

off-roader

Expedition Leader
mnutz said:
1. Sometimes when you turn the key you get no start. Full battery power and all, just no starter crank. Just back out the key and try again, and it always starts on the second try. The owner says it has done that for about 3 years.
Click to expand...
You may need a new ignition switch. Takes all of 15 minutes to replace if that's it. The switch is available at parts stores for ~$30 May also be a bad connection to the starter but I doubt it. If it is bad, let me know and I'll point you to a 'how to' thread for the fix.

mnutz said:
2. The sunroof will not open. Burned up motor? Or switch?
Click to expand...
Only way to know is to apply 12v to the motor wiring harness to see if it turns. May be either.

mnutz said:
3. Truck has bouncy seats and headlamp washers, does this mean it should have LSD? Or is it anythings possible on 92s?
Click to expand...
Look for an LSD Additive required sticker on the drivers door area (may be on the door or the door threshold). Also look for one on the diff housing.
Worst case scenario, lift the rear end and suspend it on jack stands. Release the ebrake. turn the rear tire by hand. check the other tire. if both are rotating the same direction you have an LSD. if they rotate opposite directions you have an open diff.:ylsmoke:

mnutz said:
Just remembered one more thing. Are these factory alloys really only 6 inches wide? So I'm limited to 30x9.5x15 until I get some wider wheels?
Click to expand...
May be. Some are and some aren't. The size may be stamped on the 'brake' side of the rim. If not, it will be stamped inside the rim.
 
mnutz

mnutz

Observer
Oh No! First big problem!

Well, I bought this truck Friday when it was warm out. Drove it 6 hours home on a sunny day, got so hot I had the windows down. Stupid me never tried the heat or defrost. So tonight I drove an hour away with outside temp of 15 degrees F. No heat at all, no defrost either. Dang cold drive, glad the windshield stayed clear. Where do I start?
 
O

off-roader

Expedition Leader
Thats pretty unusual.

Check if the rubber lines that go from the back of the engine to the heater core are still there. There are 2 of them. Each is about 1" thick in dia.

There are also similar lines in the passenger compartment going from the firewall to the heater core.

Also check the level / condition of the coolant.
 
mnutz

mnutz

Observer
off-roader said:
Thats pretty unusual.

Check if the rubber lines that go from the back of the engine to the heater core are still there. There are 2 of them. Each is about 1" thick in dia.

There are also similar lines in the passenger compartment going from the firewall to the heater core.

Also check the level / condition of the coolant.
Click to expand...

The heater hoses are all there and they look good. The coolant level is good, but it looks really old and cruddy. Also there is a little gunk around the upper radiator hose, and a little coolant sitting along the top of the radiator. Possibly a leaky upper hose and/or radiator cap? Could the system needing a flush and new thermostat cause the no heat condition? On the 6 hour drive home Friday the temp guage hovered right at or just below the half-way mark, outside temps were about 60 degrees. Last night on the 1 hour drive in 15 degree weather the temp guage never got out of the cold mark, when I got off the highway and let it idle it moved up just barely out of the cold. The air coming out of the heater is just SLIGHTLY warmer than the vent/outside air. If it was 15 out, maybe the heater cranked was blowing 25 degree air at me. You could feel a difference, but it was still cold air, not warm enough to warrant having the heat on at all.
 
mnutz

mnutz

Observer
I bought Prestone Super Flush, new coolant, new thermostat, upper radiator hose, and radiator cap this evening. Tomorrow I will do all that see if it brings my heat back!
 
mnutz

mnutz

Observer
mnutz said:
Just remembered one more thing. Are these factory alloys really only 6 inches wide? So I'm limited to 30x9.5x15 until I get some wider wheels?
Click to expand...


I took the spare off today to do some cleaning. On the back of the wheel it is stamped 15x6, that's no good. The factory alloys are Enkeis, thought that was interesting!
 
BIGdaddy

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
mnutz said:
I bought Prestone Super Flush, new coolant, new thermostat, upper radiator hose, and radiator cap this evening. Tomorrow I will do all that see if it brings my heat back!
Click to expand...


thermostat is the likely culprit, IMO...

It was the problem with my Jeep not getting warm, too. I looked fine, but once the new one was in, it warmed like a champ. If it gets stuck closed, it doesn't allow all that nice warm coolant to flow like it should through the system. The engine would also run cool, if this were the case.

any codes you can pull?

Should be an OBDI system, which in most SUV's of that era (mines a 1992) should allow for a technique to read them without a tool.

For example, if I switch my ignition on/off three times, the engine check light blinks out any available codes. If there's none to read, it blinks 5-5.
 
O

off-roader

Expedition Leader
BIGdaddy said:
thermostat is the likely culprit, IMO...

It was the problem with my Jeep not getting warm, too. I looked fine, but once the new one was in, it warmed like a champ. If it gets stuck closed, it doesn't allow all that nice warm coolant to flow like it should through the system. The engine would also run cool, if this were the case.

any codes you can pull?

Should be an OBDI system, which in most SUV's of that era (mines a 1992) should allow for a technique to read them without a tool.

For example, if I switch my ignition on/off three times, the engine check light blinks out any available codes. If there's none to read, it blinks 5-5.
Click to expand...

Thermostat is a possibility but if it gets warm enough to get the temp gauge to half way, then it should be warm enough to get warm air in the cabin when the heater is turned on (unless the gauge/sender is also bad).

On my 96, my 3 middle vents also have levers underneath them that control if Fresh Air or 'Heated' air is used. If yours also has them, then it may be these levers are in the wrong position or they are broken & flaps they control are stuck in the Fresh Air position.
 
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