Yes, it's a basket case. No, I was not on drugs when I built it... (2001 Toyota Tundra 2->4WD Build)

smokeysevin

Observer
I have been running the winters shifter on my truck for the last 3ish months without major issue. The mounting bracket that holds the cable onto the trans pan has incorrect bolt spacing so it took a little rework but I used the rest of the kit without much fuss.

When I went to install the front driveshaft I fount that this was clearly made for a different route than what the tundra uses. With the factory winters shift lever, the entire cable assembly was in the way of the front driveshaft. Initially, I bent the winters lever but it cracked even with a very minor bend. To fix that, I took the stock tundra shift lever on the transmission and cut the indexing plate off the back, then welded on a piece of 3/16" steel which I drilled for the winters shift pin. Once I was happy that the trans still shifted gears and lined up with the gates, I welded the pin on and ground the back side flush for clearance. I then bent the arm and set the spacing on the lever to clear the edge of the trans pan.

Sean


Shift lever in park


Clearance after modification


Cable route near driveshaft.
 

smokeysevin

Observer
After spending close to $500 on wire sleeves to make sure I didn't create a tinder box. I finally got around to running wires for my service/rock lights, air compressor, and winch. I spent 3ish days cutting, routing, and then disassembling to sleeve the wires. The sleeving process was frustrating and I managed to wear through a pair of mechanics wear gloves while playing with the mesh sleeve. I still need to get a few wire clips to clean up the route a little more but I am fairly happy with how it has turned out. All the cables are routed and secured away from any moving or hot parts. I used marine grade tinned copper wire for everything.

Sean


Sleeved cables for the service lights, air compressor, and under hood service/running lights


Switchpros mounting position.


Terminal block for the switchpros, I still have some cleanup to do here but I am waiting on cable to do it properly. I am also planning to replace the stock battery hold down.


Sleeved winch wiring, I also need to hookup the front camera.


Terminal blocks for service lights mounted to existing holes in the C framerail


Forward engine/suspension service lights.


Drivers side engine service light


Rear axle, cantilever, air control service light. The air hose routing is also temporary.



Terminal blocks for the service lights inside the frame rail.


Driveshaft/exhaust service light


Front suspension service light
 

smokeysevin

Observer
With the new bigger tires, the stock location of the tundra washer fluid bottle was begging for a tire to get pushed into it. I picked up a Dorman 603001 universal bottle from vatozone for less than $10 and hung it off the inner fender. I mounted the stock yota pump by drilling out the universal nipple on the bottom of the tank to 0.825"ish and fitting the stock yota grommet and pump to the bottom. From there, I just routed the stock hose and wires back into the engine bay and plugged it in. Works like stock but the capacity is only about half what the oe tank was.

Sean


Trimmed Stock inner fenders


Donaldson Power Core dry filter and volant prefilter with bottle in position.


Mounted on inner fender.
 

smokeysevin

Observer
10ish years ago I installed 2 strips of low profile unistrut on the floor of the bed to hold a spare tire mount. It worked pretty well but the eye bolts I could find that fit the rack were 1/4-20 and bent really easily if you applied any side load at all. I had been planning to swap them out to something stronger for a while and finally came across the airline style l-track on us cargo control so I pulled the trigger on them. I got 4 x 6' sticks and a bunch of quick lock rings. I also saw that they have a cool, double spot bolt down adapter which would let me hard bolt things like gas can racks or coolers to the bed floor. I need to yank up the unistrut and figure out where I am going to put the other 2 sticks since the tundra frame has a taper to it.

Sean


Profile and spacing


Old Vs New


Hardware


Installed Hardware


Alternate View


Spacing
 

smokeysevin

Observer
I spent some time working on cleaning up and installing parts I have been sitting on for a while.

First Install was the L track in the bed to replace my "low profile" ghetto fabulous unistrut quick rails. This worked fine for many years and I am glad I had some form of track in the bed but I was never happy with how high it stuck up. I also could never get the eye bolt pieces I made tight enough with my fingers so they would slip around. I also had to replace the eye bolts because any good ratchet strap would bend them.

Once that was done, I popped 2: 1-3/16" holes into the rear vertical walls of the truck bed so I could install a pair of blue sea systems locking cigarette lighter sockets. I plan to use them as an on demand light socket for fishing/working/camping with the potential of using them as charge ports for solar panels down the road.

Finally, since my fire extinguisher mount used the unistrut and was not spaced correctly for the new L-Track, I popped 3 holes into the bed wall and stuck a set of M8x1.25 Rivnuts in to hold it in place. I had planned to put 4 inserts in but found out after I started drilling the bolt pattern that the floor of the bed stake pocket was directly in line with one of the holes. Eventually I will get around to cutting that out and adding the final hole.

Parts used:
4: 6' Aircraft style L-Track
24: M6 x 1.0 x 20mm Torx Flat Head Screws SS
24: M6 x 18mm OD Washers
24: 1/4 SS Fender Washers
24: Class 10 M6 x 1.0 Nyloc Flange Nut
2: Blue Sea Systems Locking Cigarette Lighter Sockets (need to wire)
3: M8x1.25 Rivnuts

Tools Used:
Milwaukee M18 Metal Cutting Circular Saw
Klutch 4x3 Band Chop Saw
Milwaukee M18 Impact Driver
Milwaukee M18 Hammer Drill
Milwaukee M12 Electric Ratchet
Porter Cable Belt/Disc Sander
Drill Bits
Torx Drivers
Sockets and Ratchet

Assistant:
Wife

Time Spent:
6 Hours

New Holes in Jeans:
4

New Holes in Tundra:
33

Sean


It's Parallel, stop looking at it.


F JP, dude's a ************.


Side tie-down and outlet.


I am pretty sure that extinguisher is recalled, I need to replace it. For the love of god, cut the damn hose clamp tails you monster.


Team Green


3 Bolts on a 4 bolt flange, seems legit.


Reason why there are only 3 bolts.
 

wiggilez

New member
I was looking to do that exact setup with the L track, then I discovered that the cheapest I could find was 250$ for I believe 4 meters.
 

smokeysevin

Observer
I was looking to do that exact setup with the L track, then I discovered that the cheapest I could find was 250$ for I believe 4 meters.
Yeah, this was 4 sticks of 6' for $50 each. I think it was close to $300 all in. Not cheap but I end up hauling lots of random stuff so the extra locations were important.

The unistrut is probably 75% as effective for 25% the price but its 200% as frustrating and 50% taller.

My theme for this is "do it right the second time"

Sean
 

wiggilez

New member
I'm still thinking of going for it, but I don't have any trip plans till august, so I'll probably revisit the idea then.
 

Recommended books for Overlanding

Drive Nacho Drive: A Journey from the American Dream to t...
by Brad Van Orden, Sheena Van Orden
From $15.95
Cycling the Great Divide: From Canada to Mexico on North ...
by Michael McCoy, venture Cycling Association
From $9.99

smokeysevin

Observer
Made a cheap easy awning for camping or whatever. The tarp I think was a free coupon for harbor freight, the rest was $20ish from lowes.

1 6.5'x5.5' hazard frito tarp
5 5'x0.5" conduit
3 0.5" conduit connectors
2 m8 rivnuts
2 m8 bolts
2 3/8 unc nuts
2 3/8 unc bolts
2 corkscrew ground anchors
20ft 550 hidden fart paracord


Mounts:

Drill 2 holes into the bed rail 66.5 inches on center and install m8 rivnuts

Legs:

Cut one of the conduit pieces in half and stuff one 3/8 unc nuts into one end of each section. Put 2 tack welds on each nut and set aside.

Cross bars:

Take one 5' section of conduit and install a coupler onto the end, then add another section of conduit to the end. Mark total lenght of 67.5" and cut to lenght. Mark 1" at each end and flatten in a vise. Mark and drill 3/8" diameter hole 0.5" from end of tube on flat section on each end. Remove sharp edges.

Assembly:

Connect 5' section and 2.5' section with conduit coupler to form leg, tighten to notgonnafallout ft-lbs. Repeat for other leg.

Take crossbar assembly and connect tarp with 3/8" bolts on either corner. Screw legs onto crossbar. Leave approximately 0.5" of unthreaded lenght.

Connect the other end of the tarp to the mounting points of the truck bed.

Slip paracord over exposed bolts on the legs and pull tight. Place and tie to ground anchors.

Enjoy shade.


Sean






 

smokeysevin

Observer
More general than tundra specific but I made some cheap flounder fishing lights.

18" 1.5"x1.5"×3/16" aluminum angle

4 18w 2x6 led lights

2 4' lenghts of 0.5" conduit/pvc

4 3/4" pipe clamps

8 m6x1.0x20mm bolts

2 m6x1.0x40mm bolts

10 m6x1.0 flange nuts

100ish feet 12awg speaker wire (cheap dual conductor wire that I had)

2 12awg ring terminals for 1/4" bolt

Adhesive lined heat shrink

Crystal clear epoxy potting resin



Making the lights waterproof

Disassemble the lights and make "dams" out of foil tape.

Place lights so that the forward face is horizontal. Mix and pour the epoxy halfway up. Reinstall reflectors and pour epoxy to fully enclose all components. Let cure and remove tape.

Once the tape is off, sand the edges flush so the end caps can be reattached.

Making light mounts

Cut the aluminum into 2 9" lenghts and drill 3/8 holes into ends for lights to attach. Drill half inch hole into center of tube for cable passthrough. Drill 5 1/4" holes into vertical leg for mounting pvc tube. Drill the center hole last once tube is installed. Join lights together and connect light to wire. Add fuses and ring terminals for battery connections.

Catch some fish.

Sean







 

smokeysevin

Observer
I tested the lights last night but no fish. The lights worked great but the cords are too short and the pattern needs to be adjusted.

Turns out the spot I knew about 10 years ago is not accessible anymore. 2 hurricanes and ******** loads of "no trespassing unless you want to get a hot lead injection" signs closed off access.

Canopy worked great, I may add another tarp to offer more shade.

4wd worked well but I need to remember to disengage the hubs after setting them to freewheel, they liked to stay stuck unless I put the truck in reverse then back in drive. Not sure if that is normal of if something is up.

Sean
 

Doc_

Sammich!
This is a really cool build, I like all of your clever fabrications.
I'm gonna steal your service lights idea, that would be so useful in a pinch.
 

smokeysevin

Observer
This is a really cool build, I like all of your clever fabrications.
I'm gonna steal your service lights idea, that would be so useful in a pinch.
Thanks for the kind words, its a work in progress but its a labor of love.

It has already proven to be useful, the under hood lights have been particularly helpful when doing wiring.

Sean
 

smokeysevin

Observer
My truck started clicking and vibrating at about 65mph on the way to work this morning, I figured out it was coming from the transfer case once I made it off the highway and was able to get the noise to stop by switching between 2wd high, 4wd high, and 4wd low, then back to 2wd high. Unfortunately the noise came back and would go away after repeating the reset process. It would come back at shorter intervals each time.

I got home and blew apart the transfer case to try and find what was wrong and the only thing I found was that the synchro on the main shaft had the teeth ground down. I found lots of fine tooth shavings all throughout the case and planetary assembly.

With the case all apart, I cleaned and flushed everything out in my parts washer. Before I can get it back together though I have a few questions.

Can I order just the replacement synchro or is this a replace the case scenario?

Best guess on what happened is that somehow, the truck tried to shift into 4wd on the highway. I have manual locking hubs which were set to free and the transfer case was firmly on the detent in 2wd.

There should be no way for the truck to have the transfer case change from 2wd to 4wd while driving. There are no electronics in the case at all and the shifters are cable driven off a lever in the cab.

The only thing I could think of is that the 3 little detents plate things on the main gear that the synchro connects with for 2wd and 4wd were installed incorrectly when I reassembled the case after I modified the shift rails to for the twin stick shifter.

Is there anything I missed here?

Sean




 
Top