where_the_heffalump_roams 917 AF

[where_the_heffalump_roams]

Thank you so much! I have a turbo OM366, but I don't know if there are sub-models and changes between years.
Those alternators look like they are only 50 amps vs 200 amps. It would be nice keep the 200 amps and I'm wondering if the casing could just be replaced. However I would love to pack around an economical option for a spare alternator.

Maybe this is it: https://webautocats.com/epc/mercedes/4/m/366978/28g/15/030/?chasis=67619856S

I went through the menus for truck model: 676.198 but I don't know what engine you have. The only one available here was 366.978.

View attachment 778735

There seem to be a few alternator options:
View attachment 778736

Thank you so much! I have a turbo OM366, but I don't know if there are sub-models and changes between years.
Those alternators look like they are only 50 amps vs 200 amps. It would be nice keep the 200 amps and I'm wondering if the casing could just be replaced. However I would love to pack around an economical option for a spare alternator.

 

[DiploStrat]

I have been running this for a few years on a 1990 917 AF.
E-mail Holly: holly@nationsstarteralternator.com

I ordered in a Bosch 150 amp replacement. - Same mount but internal fan and different electrical connections.
It should work with pulley swap-
0124655291
Bosch, Alternator, 24V, 150A, New

Description:	Alternator
OEM(s):	Mercedes
Voltage:	24
Amps:	150
Condition:	New
Rotation:	CW
Mount Type:	Spool
Mtg Ear 1 Hole:	12.2mm Unthreaded
Mtg Ear 2 Hole:	12.2mm Unthreaded
Mtg Ear 3 Hole:	10.5mm Unthreaded
Mtg Ear 1 Thickness:	0.63in / 16mm
Mtg Ear 2 Thickness:	0.63in / 16mm
Mtg Ear 3 Thickness:	3.15in / 80mm
Regulator Clock:	12:00
Fan Location:	Internal
Regulator Location:	Internal
B+ Terminal:	M8x1.25
Polarity:	Negative
Shaft OD (Pulley):	0.669in / 17mm
Shaft Threads:	M16x1.50
Notes:	(5) Pin Regulator Plug W, L, IG, S, DFM
Application:	Mercedes Travego Applications with 12.8L Engines
Weight:	20.04 lbs / 9.11 kg

 

[MogsAndDogs]

Thank you so much! I have a turbo OM366, but I don't know if there are sub-models and changes between years.
Those alternators look like they are only 50 amps vs 200 amps. It would be nice keep the 200 amps and I'm wondering if the casing could just be replaced. However I would love to pack around an economical option for a spare alternator.

I would assume yours should have a tag like mine somewhere on the engine itself. I can't remember where mine is and too lazy to go look. But if you can't find it let me know.

 

[RoamIt]

I have a '95 OM366LA engine and the stock Bosch alternator was 80amps. I went ahead and installed it, but I know you can get them rebuilt, re-wound for more output.

I don't want to bash anyone, but I'll share that Hans from Unimogcanada quoted me $2600 EACH for my brake spring cylinders, and I got them for $984.16 each from SpareTo. WABCO factory part.

 

[where_the_heffalump_roams]

I have a '95 OM366LA engine and the stock Bosch alternator was 80amps. I went ahead and installed it, but I know you can get them rebuilt, re-wound for more output.

I don't want to bash anyone, but I'll share that Hans from Unimogcanada quoted me $2600 EACH for my brake spring cylinders, and I got them for $984.16 each from SpareTo. WABCO factory part.

That actually sounds about right, not that I think Hams is price gouging anyone. But he is sourcing parts direct from Mercedes in Germany and I’m assuming he adds a mark up fee. We all know that dealer prices are insane. In terms of the vin tag, I do have that but I also posted my vin above.


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[where_the_heffalump_roams]

I have been running this for a few years on a 1990 917 AF.
E-mail Holly: holly@nationsstarteralternator.com

Thanks! I’ll email them and see if they have options!


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[where_the_heffalump_roams]

I spoke with a truck repair shop that is about 40 miles away that also does fabrication. I'm going to cross my fingers that the JB weld on the alternator allows me to bolt it on tomorrow and carefully drive it there. They think they can remove my engine mount and repair it. This might be cheaper/easier than sourcing a new one from MB. I'm also not sure if this bracket is OEM or not since a Toyota A/C compressor bolts to it from the passenger side of it. This shop might also be able to tackle the brakes. they can rivet the pads onto the shoes and install everything. That may or may not solve the issue as I may not have 100% ruled out a valve issue that could be keeping the parking break spring from fully compressing the actuator.

The biggest challenge now replacing or repairing the alternator mount. I'm wondering if the casings are interchangeable between models? Buying a lesser amp model and swapping the casing might be the course of least resistance. Anyone know if this is possible?
I can't find any identifiers on the alternator other than the regulator that is bolted on the back. So it's hard to identify a part # that I can use as a search guide.

 

[Iain_U1250]

Do you have a photo of the brake set-up on your truck, is there only one actuator or two ( one for each wheel) A spring applied brake is a pretty simple thing, just a spring in a can. This is the Unimog set-up. The actuator is adjustable by moving it forward on the axle, and the spring is very powerful, you can't move it one bit by hand.

I don't like your chances on JB weld fixing your alternator, maybe with a lot of reinforcing it might last a enough, does the same belt run the waterpump? Is so, not worth the risk, you could blow the engine before the temp gauge came up without a waterpump

 

[charlieaarons]

Can you tell us:
1) amp rating of alternator (24v, correct?)
2) MB part number (should be 10 digits, maybe preceded by “A”).
3) photograph of ID plate on alternator if it exists, writing readable. If just the regulator has writing on it, that helps. Is the regulator part of the alternator or completely divorced, connected only by wires?
4) pictures of mounting holes on alternator, with measurements: diameter of holes, distance between holes, both between the 2 and overall including the thickness of the “ears”. Also the “upper” ear, which is for belt tensioning: it’s distance from front mounting ear (usually coplanar).
I’m Assuming that it uses old style belt(s) and not serpentine belt.
Also, is motor a 366A, turbo but no intercooler? Do you know motor designation - should be 6 digits like 366.xyz.

 

[where_the_heffalump_roams]

I really want to thank everyone on here for all the help, it is really appreciatd Spending the the last 2 days on a busy intersection on an on ramp is not ideal and I'm fortunate to not have been ran out by police or the public. I've been mostly on the road the past several years and have experienced many break downs. But I think this one will be one of the most challenging to date as the parts will be difficult to source and the projects have been building up faster than I can get them repaired.I agree the JB weld is not optimal. But I'm hoping it will allow me to get the truck off the road and to the nearest shop.

Iain_U1250, my brakes are quite different and not as nice as yours. I'm using drum brakes with a wedge system at all 4 corners.



1) The alternator is 24 volts and rated at 200 amps.

2) I've spent the last 2 days trying to figure out the alternator part # without confidence. But I'm thinking it is: A 009 154 09 02.
3/4) There are little no identifiers on the alternator. I'm very open to swapping it out for one with lesser amps if it can be bolted on without modification. If the casings are the same, I'd might buy 2, and swap the casing and keep the other as a back up. (I'd actually like a spare starter too). I took some additional pics this morning. (please don't' mind the JB Weld, it was applied after it was dark outside). The engine is a turbo, non-intercooler 0M366. I do no know the exact designation. It does not use a serpentine belt. The truck is a 1993 917 AF the vin is WDB6761981K030227.

 

[charlieaarons]

Alternator Mounting Guide

28SI™ High Output Brush Type Alternator | Delco Remy

The 28SI high output alternator was designed to address vehicle applications that require higher electrical output, but also want lower weight, improved temperature capability, and fuel savings.

www.delcoremy.com

On the second link, look at the diagrams about halfway down the page to see if you can make it work, for pictorial illustrations of J-180 short and long hinge mountings.
110a/24v is more than enough for a camper application IMHO.

 

[DiploStrat]

Thanks! I’ll email them and see if they have options!


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Are you a member of the LN2 group? Lots of great folks there; some retired MB mechanics: https://www.ln2-forum.de/

Adam Nations found the alternator and the conversion clip used to wire it to the older truck. (In classic overkill, I also bought one on e-Bay.)

Have to keep your wits about you, but it is not hard to wire up, we just had to add an ignition controlled feed. Still working today.

Only reason I went with a monster alternator is a 24v cab air conditioner AND an 800Ah camper battery - the drain of the latter controlled by a battery to battery charger.

As to the rest - will light a candle for you.

 

[where_the_heffalump_roams]

Alternator Mounting Guide

28SI™ High Output Brush Type Alternator | Delco Remy

The 28SI high output alternator was designed to address vehicle applications that require higher electrical output, but also want lower weight, improved temperature capability, and fuel savings.

www.delcoremy.com

On the second link, look at the diagrams about halfway down the page to see if you can make it work, for pictorial illustrations of J-180 short and long hinge mountings.
110a/24v is more than enough for a camper application IMHO.

I don't think that would work, the mounts are too narrow.
This alternator might fit: https://enginepartssuperstore.com/C...C172-T1-Series-Swung-LH-Mount-type-24V-155A#2

This place in SF specializes in rebuilds and works on rare/old parts. They might be able to fix this if I can get the alternator to them.

Boat, Fan & Window Electric Motors For Sale in San Francisco CA | Rite Way Electric

Rite-Way Electric has been selling and servicing motors in San Francisco, CA since 1939! We have new and rebuilt units available and can obtain the exact product you need, or we can rebuilt/repair your existing unit. Come to the experts the next time you need a boat, electric, or industrial motor!

www.rite-wayelectric.com

 

[where_the_heffalump_roams]

I big reason why I may want to keep the 200 amps is air conditioning.
The current habitat battery bank is 400 amps but I may increase that to 800amp-1000amps later. I am also considering a 12 volt a/c system that can cool the habitat while driving and has a max draw of 55 amp/hr.This won't be needed often, but I also spent last summer in SolCal deserts where the temps were 120F by day and 100F at night.

Having said that. I'm still open to most options to get me on the road for now. I can work on fixing the 200amp casing and having a lesser amp for a back up once it's repaired.

**Edit/ADD***I also got an email from Hans, who states the 100 amp alternators are much smaller and would not fit. I'm assuming they have different mounts.

 

[charlieaarons]