Weather proof Bulkhead connector for solar panels?

rayra

Expedition Leader
I went ahead and bought the SAE bulkhead fitting you posted in #110, #118. Seems well made. The black PVC of the bulkhead fitting is thick and stiff but pliant enough to conform to a slightly curved surface. And with the four screws and a gob of sealant it really shouldn't leak at all, even in your horizontal install. And the cap on the connector is also thick and ought to hold up for a long time. I'd probably orient the cap strap towards the front of the vehicle so the wind forces are working to push the cap shut.
Looks like it needs a large hole though, 13/16"? Easy enough with a step drill.
The disc of the bulkhead fitting is 1-7/8" in diameter.
The depth needed behind it is at least 1-1/4" and that's with putting a sharp 90deg bend on the wiring.

I'm going to go fart around with the coupling on my Sub roof deck, while the rains have stopped, see how things will line up. Be back with a few pics within the hour...

solarconnect007.jpg
solarconnect008.jpg
solarconnect009.jpg
solarconnect010.jpg
solarconnect011.jpg


the diameter of the bulkhead fitting will just work, in combination with my Z71 roof rack footing height and the installed height of of my roof deck.

The bulkhead fittings as supplied are about 12" long, about 10.5" of wire between the fittings on both ends. My installation will let me clip the wiring 1-1.5" from the bulkhead and put anderson connectors on it.

The exterior shell of the roof rack footings are just that, a shell. There's a blocky plastic shoe that actually bolts to the roof mounts, which the roof rack rails attached to. I'll be taking out one of the bolts and passing my roof wiring thru the hole and into the ceiling. In 2-3 weeks I'm installing the 1/0 cable extensions for my winch power plugs at both ends of the vehicle and will be pulling out all my storage platform / drawers / power module as part of that. Replacing rear view camera / wiring, running the solar wiring and installing this bulkhead fitting and possibly even taking out my factory subwoofer box and installign some sort of onboard air option and also hard-plumbing it to my bumpers.
It's such a pain in the butt to take it all apart that I want to get as much done as possible while I have it apart.
 
Last edited:

SBSYNCRO

Well-known member
I'd probably orient the cap strap towards the front of the vehicle so the wind forces are working to push the cap shut.
Looks like it needs a large hole though, 13/16"? Easy enough with a step drill.
The disc of the bulkhead fitting is 1-7/8" in diameter.

I used a step drill - 21mm seemed just about right. I did in fact orient the cap as you mention - great minds think alike. :)

As I’ve said all along it’s not ideal (I wanted a 90°/horizontal connector so as not to require a bend from the solar panel and to the interior connector) but I think it will suit my needs for now and probably last a year or two while I search for “the perfect” solution (if one exists).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
There's a few solutions in the HAM radio universe for passing cabling thru steel roofs, I always though they were too robust for what I needed for the rack footer. But might be better for your roof steel penetration. Unfortunately I can't recall the good search term for them. Want to say 'clamshell', not sure. Maybe a HAM forum or RV installer might know.
 

SBSYNCRO

Well-known member
I've used these on my boats in the past but wanted something with a connector, which I've never seen in this sort of thing.


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I did think about one of these, because its ALMOST perfect - the problem is that it is proprietary and has 5 pins instead of just 2.

1584316171916.png
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Those first turtle-looking things are what I was thinking of. Rejected for the same reasoning, wanted a connector. Don't like the skimpier kind often used with solar panels. These SAE are a sort of compromise. I looked at the metal plate 'bulkhead' brackets for Anderson PP and their little vinyl boot thing, and decided it wasn't enough for weather and didn't want to slather it with sealant. AND didn't like the idea of just having an APP connection up there, not where a drive-thru car wash can thrash it. The SAE seems a lot more robust in that regard.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Those first turtle-looking things
AKA marine clams, water-tight cable bushings / Wire Seal / Cord Grip Connectors / Strain Relief all related terms.

Split cable glands are the ones that allow sealing wires that have bulky crimped terminators already in place.

WRT longevity, integrity of the connection, low resistance and ampacity, no way I would ever use SAE and "robust" in the same breath.

Especially compared to Andersons.
 

carbon60

Explorer
One approach is to use a pigtail and a marine clam. Then the connector and the waterproof bulkhead can be separate things.
 

alia176

Explorer
I went ahead and bought the SAE bulkhead fitting you posted in #110, #118. Seems well made. The black PVC of the bulkhead fitting is thick and stiff but pliant enough to conform to a slightly curved surface. And with the four screws and a gob of sealant it really shouldn't leak at all, even in your horizontal install. And the cap on the connector is also thick and ought to hold up for a long time. I'd probably orient the cap strap towards the front of the vehicle so the wind forces are working to push the cap shut.
Looks like it needs a large hole though, 13/16"? Easy enough with a step drill.
The disc of the bulkhead fitting is 1-7/8" in diameter.
The depth needed behind it is at least 1-1/4" and that's with putting a sharp 90deg bend on the wiring.


solarconnect007.jpg
solarconnect008.jpg
solarconnect009.jpg
solarconnect010.jpg
solarconnect011.jpg


the diameter of the bulkhead fitting will just work, in combination with my Z71 roof rack footing height and the installed height of of my roof deck.

The bulkhead fittings as supplied are about 12" long, about 10.5" of wire between the fittings on both ends. My installation will let me clip the wiring 1-1.5" from the bulkhead and put anderson connectors on it.

I'm curious if the SAE connectors can be had in multiple wire gauges? I'm used to seeing them in 16 or 18 awg but wouldn't mind seeing them in 12 or 14 awg sizes. Did you buy them from Amazon, where all good things come from?

Edit: yup, Amazon link 12awg SAE connector for solar!
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Exactly what OP settled for.

Problem is with SAE there is no precise tested ampacity rating, and resistance increases with duty-cycle aging.

IOW very likely the wire will handle much more than the connector.

Which is fine if you just want the #12 to reduce V drop, but there's little clarity for those with higher currents

15A max continuous IMO, maybe 30A for short peaks?

Definitely better safety than a ciggie port, but in the same (lousy) ballpark
 

john61ct

Adventurer
One approach is to use a pigtail and a marine clam. Then the connector and the waterproof bulkhead can be separate things.
Yes seems the necessary approach if you want assured quality with precise specs.

But OP specifically ruled that out from the start.

With a vertical actual bulkhead, Anderson + bootie is IMO next best to Deutsch, but sticking up through a horizontal roof/deck you really need a solid waterproofing design,

and then low-profile became the limiting factor.
 

carbon60

Explorer
I’m working on a setup using the side-exit Blue Sea clam on a vertical surface of my trailer. The cable will exit toward the bottom with a 6” pigtail and a booted SB50 connector. Then a nice clip to keep it from bouncing around when not in use.
 

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