Vanilla Gorilla: 2017 Power Wagon build

marshal

Burrito Enthusiast
no leaks on mine, although my running lights curiously had water in them when i first picked the truck up - i haven't been able to figure out how that happened and it hasn't happened since.

Side note: i loved my Toyota, and i think toyotas are kickass - its just that they're old and Toyota isn't in the game anymore. My Power Wagon gets the same fuel milage as a Tundra and i have more features, and much much more capability. Thats really all it comes down to.

I hope that Toyota realizes what mess they've created and comes up with something that can actually compete with the new American offerings, because even the poster-boy of reliability that Toyota has capitalized on for years is narrowing to nearly nothing.
 

RoyJ

Adventurer
Their drawbacks in comparison are lower payload's and GVRW's

Speaking of payload and GVWR, if should be mentioned that the PW's low payload and GVWR is entirely due to the softer springs.

The axle (massive AAM 11.5") is used in the non-Aisin dually trucks, capable of nearly 10k lbs of GAWR. The 50 ksi frame is identical to the 3500, save for a slight modification for coil vs leaf springs.

People like to throw the term "overbuilt" on Land Cruisers, but if anything, the PW is much more overbuilt than the LC - axles and frame designed for 850 lb-ft diesels hauling 7000 lbs and towing 30,000 lbs, yet used on a 430 lb-ft gas truck hauling 1500 lbs and towing 10,000 lbs.

Used as intended, the chassis and axles of a PW would NEVER break.
 

warwickscout

Observer
I had a tundra trd pro great truck but you get so much more for your money with the ram.the pro had no heated seats, no auto headlights, 1 power seat same gas mpg as my 2500 and the list goes on.
 

Dalko43

Explorer
Speaking of payload and GVWR, if should be mentioned that the PW's low payload and GVWR is entirely due to the softer springs.

The axle (massive AAM 11.5") is used in the non-Aisin dually trucks, capable of nearly 10k lbs of GAWR. The 50 ksi frame is identical to the 3500, save for a slight modification for coil vs leaf springs.

People like to throw the term "overbuilt" on Land Cruisers, but if anything, the PW is much more overbuilt than the LC - axles and frame designed for 850 lb-ft diesels hauling 7000 lbs and towing 30,000 lbs, yet used on a 430 lb-ft gas truck hauling 1500 lbs and towing 10,000 lbs.

Used as intended, the chassis and axles of a PW would NEVER break.

Don't let the LC diehards hear you saying that; they're likely to throw a fit.

Leaking from the CHMSL is a common issue.

What's that?
 

ChuckB

Expedition Leader
Don't let the LC diehards hear you saying that; they're likely to throw a fit.

I’m a Land Cruiser owner and there’s a reason why I’m here... to own a PW/2500 and a Cruiser!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

RBA

Adventurer
fun thread. I came so close to buying a '17 PW but ultimately went with a '17 Ford F150. I still keep an eye on RAM PW updates for '18 and beyond. I can see myself getting one at some point.

I came from Toyota FJ Cruiser, Jeep JKUR and Land Rover LR4. The F150 (Platinum edition) is my first pickup and I really enjoy it. Best vehicle I've owned to date. The power, room, comfort is fantastic. I can't imagine going back down to a smaller vehicle.

Keep up the build. I'm looking forward to seeing more progress.
 

marshal

Burrito Enthusiast
ive got updates!

Untitled by Will Marshal, on Flickr

Another real world shot of the new HIR1 bulbs in the headlights. this is accurate to what i experienced with the exception of the hot spot is a bit over exposed. it was hard to get the rest correctly exposed without that being an issue.

Untitled by Will Marshal, on Flickr

its been near 0 here every day, and some days getting into the negatives. the other morning it was -8 out. i guess its just the nature of this truck, but the cold and winter gas is absolutely ruining my fuel milage. I can't ever quite get the engine as warm as id hope. Yeah, it gets to its 220 degree operating temperature, but as soon as the thermostat opens it will drop to 175ish and have to build its way back up. I think i might need a radiator blanket for these ultra cold conditions. My theory is that the combustion chamber is not an optimal temperature.

Untitled by Will Marshal, on Flickr

i got the Leitner Gear Pods to go along with my rack

Untitled by Will Marshal, on Flickr

Im really impressed with these, they're made of roto-molded black UV-resistant plastic, the same kind they make heavy duty Kayaks out of. These things are stout. They have brackets on the top and bottom to fit into the rack's modular portions, and have a strut on the inside to keep the top open. They're pretty weather proof, and have a keyed-locking handle. Im really impressed with them and im going to load them up with all my trail goodies

Untitled by Will Marshal, on Flickr

Untitled by Will Marshal, on Flickr

Untitled by Will Marshal, on Flickr


Lastly, the new tires came - Falken Wildpeak MT 37x13.50R20.

Untitled by Will Marshal, on Flickr

should be a snug fit

Untitled by Will Marshal, on Flickr

I've had a couple people ask me why i went with a 20" rim vs the 17", and here is why: Im trying to retain as much on-road handling characteristics as possible despite the increase in height and width. I've heard from people that this is an internet myth, that a 17" rim on a 37 would perform just as well with no noticeable difference. I simply can't buy into that. I can't fathom how thats possible, that a large variable flexible section of rubber is just as stiff as a smaller section of rubber mounted to a much larger rigid mounting surface. Its common knowledge that larger rims ride rougher, but deliver more precision in steering input and smaller sidewalls aren't driven through as easily on the street.

all that said, the section height of the 37x13.50R20 is still almost double what my current 285/70s are. There is a huge increase in footprint from the tires over what i have now, and while im losing a bit of off-road performance by not going with a 17 - i'll be making up that difference with my wheel selection: 20x9.5 Trail Ready Beadlocks. Not a street lock, a true beadlock. Im hoping to order those this month, just waiting for some money to free up. Then we'll be cooking.
 

marshal

Burrito Enthusiast
That's gonna be a heavy wheel/tire combo, might want some lower gears

It will be down the road. Thankfully the TR beadlocks are super light at 36lbs. So we’re looking at a combined tire/wheel weight of 117lbs - which is about the weight of a Toyo OCMT from the get go
 

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