Trailscape's 06 Tundra

[toyotech]

It seems to be working at displaying the battery load from the auxiliary fuse box.
With the solar, I usually see a slight drop in voltage when I switch on a light or accessory.
If there's not enough solar power, it shows watts/amps being used. It's wired to the battery negative, with the positive lead going to the load output.

Yeah I have one too but it’s monitoring solar output like your top one it looks like. I’ll need to wiring a second one to monitor usage


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[trailscape]

Yeah I have one too but it’s monitoring solar output like your top one it looks like. I’ll need to wiring a second one to monitor usage


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I really want one that can display more info, but these are cheap and seem to work.

Here's another option. Renogy makes one that looks interesting, but it's pricey.

DROK DC 0-300V 200A STN LCD Display Digital Multimeter Voltage Ampere Power Energy Ammeter Voltmeter Battery Volt Amp Meter AH Monitor Panel with Hall Sensor … - - Amazon.com

DROK DC 0-300V 200A STN LCD Display Digital Multimeter Voltage Ampere Power Energy Ammeter Voltmeter Battery Volt Amp Meter AH Monitor Panel with Hall Sensor … - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

[trailscape]

I just replaced my OEM radiator after 15 years of use with another OEM. The Denso is indeed from China. Old radiator was cooling fine but the fins started to have surface rust. Peace of mind. Still have original hoses on there but carry spare upper and lowers with me.

That kind of irks me if they are manufacturing them in China. There's so much counterfeit Denso coming out of there that you have to be really careful. This is mostly with spark plugs, ignition coils, etc but that's not making it any easier.

I went ahead and ordered a CSF 3237 Radiator. It showed up today, marked as made in Indonesia. Looks pretty good. I have a set of HPS Silicon hoses that I'd been waiting to install. Figured I might as well do the radiator as well.

 

[trailscape]

Added a tailgate table.. I wasn’t sure this was going to fit based on the dimensions, but it just makes it.

 

[trailscape]

Still getting things situated here. Added a molle panel to hold tools that I’m often using.

Decided to add the Victron Bluetooth dongle. I get all the information needed through a phone app now and you can make battery/charging adjustments. Cool stuff, just gets pricey quick.

 

[Justin Cook]

Still getting things situated here. Added a molle panel to hold tools that I’m often using.

Decided to add the Victron Bluetooth dongle. I get all the information needed through a phone app now and you can make battery/charging adjustments. Cool stuff, just gets pricey quick.
View attachment 560676

Damn that's a nice setup! I appreciate the organization, especially considering how many different components you have in a very small space... well done!

 

[trailscape]

Damn that's a nice setup! I appreciate the organization, especially considering how many different components you have in a very small space... well done!

Thanks. It's a constant learning experience and space is a real limitation, but I find it much easier working with a more visual layout.

There's also always more cool stuff I come across that has me changing things up. I'll probably swap the meters to a Victron BMV-712 next. Maybe one of the smart chargers.

 

[trailscape]

Just passed five years with the '06 now. I'm hoping to get her out more this year.

 

[Justin Cook]

Thanks. It's a constant learning experience and space is a real limitation, but I find it much easier working with a more visual layout.
There's also always more cool stuff I come across that has me changing things up. I'll probably swap the meters to a Victron BMV-712 next. Maybe one of the smart chargers.

Ha I hear you! I get to play with all the new stuff, since I have to understand how it works to be able to support it, but it's annoying because after I play with it I want to buy it and it's never cheap... ah well, one component at a time, right...

 

[trailscape]

I like having this extra info available. There hasn't been much of a load on the batteries, but it's fun to see how it's working.

I'm using two 100w Renogy panels in parallel. The charger is good for 75v/15 amps.
I have a third panel I'm not currently using and could probably wire them in series. I think three in parallel might be a bit over amperage.

 

[Justin Cook]

I like having this extra info available. There hasn't been much of a load on the batteries, but it's fun to see how it's working.

I'm using two 100w Renogy panels in parallel. The charger is good for 75v/15 amps.
I have a third panel I'm not currently using and could probably wire them in series. I think three in parallel might be a bit over amperage.

Well, on the input side, over-A isn't particularly a problem, as the Victron MPPTs are self-limiting on input current; it'll just clip whatever excess there is and shed it as heat. It's over-V that you need to worry about on the input side, as they're not V limiting and they're sensitive as hell... go over the input voltage limit by even a couple of V and you can fry the controller. It looks like the Renogy 100w panels have a VOC of 22.5V (though of course that's an unreliable spec since Renogy rarely knows the true specs of what they're selling) so three of those in series would be ~67.5VOC... and remember you could easily spike above that on a cold CO morning, so you're definitely running the risk of controller damage if you put them in series.
If it was me, I'd suggest either keeping them in parallel, letting the controller clip the couple extra amps from time to time when it needs to, or get a 4th 100w panel and run a 2s2p configuration: 2 parallel strings of 2 panels in series. That way your V input stays around ~45v, well within controller specs even on a cold morning, and your A input is around ~10-12A depending on conditions... best of both worlds there.
Now, sure, that 400w of panel is way more than the controller can process under ideal conditions, but it'll serve you well in the winter months when you're only getting ~50w or so out of each panel, and in the summer the controller will just clip out whatever it can't handle.

 

[trailscape]

Well, on the input side, over-A isn't particularly a problem, as the Victron MPPTs are self-limiting on input current; it'll just clip whatever excess there is and shed it as heat. It's over-V that you need to worry about on the input side, as they're not V limiting and they're sensitive as hell... go over the input voltage limit by even a couple of V and you can fry the controller. It looks like the Renogy 100w panels have a VOC of 22.5V (though of course that's an unreliable spec since Renogy rarely knows the true specs of what they're selling) so three of those in series would be ~67.5VOC... and remember you could easily spike above that on a cold CO morning, so you're definitely running the risk of controller damage if you put them in series.
If it was me, I'd suggest either keeping them in parallel, letting the controller clip the couple extra amps from time to time when it needs to, or get a 4th 100w panel and run a 2s2p configuration: 2 parallel strings of 2 panels in series. That way your V input stays around ~45v, well within controller specs even on a cold morning, and your A input is around ~10-12A depending on conditions... best of both worlds there.
Now, sure, that 400w of panel is way more than the controller can process under ideal conditions, but it'll serve you well in the winter months when you're only getting ~50w or so out of each panel, and in the summer the controller will just clip out whatever it can't handle.

That's some great info. Thank you. I was reading about the downsides of shade when wired in series. Supposedly, these Renogy panels have by-pass diodes but it's looking like keeping three in parallel would be best to maintain that safety margin. I'd be adding the third panel on the sloped section of my camper. I may just put the entire old setup on my trailer instead.

 

[Justin Cook]

That's some great info. Thank you. I was reading about the downsides of shade when wired in series. Supposedly, these Renogy panels have by-pass diodes but it's looking like keeping three in parallel would be best to maintain that safety margin. I'd be adding the third panel on the sloped section of my camper. I may just put the entire old setup on my trailer instead.

Happy to help! The Renogy panels almost certainly have bypass diodes in them, but how many is another matter... if 4 cells of one panel are in hard shade, does the diode bypass the entire panel, or are there 4 diodes so it only bypasses 1/4 of the panel, or? No way to know without opening it up...

 

[trailscape]

This one should be fun.

 

[Kpack]

Looks like it's time for a Saws-all. I replaced my cam bolts with used OEM, and slathered every mating surface with anti-seize. I kept the original control arms and replaced the bushings. It might just be easier to replace the entire control arm assembly and have the bushings already installed that way.

After you replace I would spray with Fluid Film or something equivalent. I don't envy you!!