Toyota chinook 4x4

4xchinook4

Observer
Wow! That is a sweet design. Much more than I was willing to attempt. Ya, the hump is that initial force required to get the springs working. You know how when you put it up manually you have to give it that good push at first and then after that it goes up all by itself. And when you bring it down you probably have also experienced how you have to pull down hard at the beginning and at the end it just drops into place.

I think that you may still have the problem I had even with the struts. If the struts are also horizontal, no angle, then they will not be adding any upward force. And if you do put them on an angle that means they are always exerting upward force, even when the roof is closed, meaning the latching/locking mechanism has to be able to hold it. While the broomstick approach works, I would still add another actuator since my whole purpose is to have to top go up by itself. One more actuator, in your closet that pokes through the top when activated, would give that initial push. Have it on the same switch as the two lift actuators (remote control in my case) and then have a switch for just that actuator (on the closet wall) that you can use to lower it. That actuator would not be connected to the roof and would not have to go up very much, not sure how much, just enough to get past the hump. Once the roof is raised you can use the switch for it on the closet wall to lower it back out of the way since it is not required to lower the roof.

I am also curious about how you intend to latch/lock the roof down. The biggest reason I want an automatic roof is because I don't wan't to have to get into the Chinook and undo all those straps (or do them up again for that matter). My Chinook was gutted when I got it so I'm not sure if having seats gives a better position to do this, but for me with the 4 foot ceiling height it is a pain in the buttocks so I wanted to have the roof and latching mechanism work without having to go inside. I'm curious if you are just going to rely on the actuators to keep the roof down or continue to use the straps or if you have something else in mind. For me, I'm not sure how I will do it, but the actuators will definitely hold down the middle of the roof and I'll probably add latches on the front and back and for that I was thinking of using generic power door locks.
Great ideas for all us chinook owners out there bro. Awesome post.!

I honestly don't mind the crawling in and straping / unstraping of the roof. . For years I only every did the front middle strap. And its never given me issues. And occasionally strap one of the rear straps. So for myself. Ill probably plan on just the front center strap. And rear strap . And the actuators for the left and right sides . . .

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4xchinook4

Observer
Roof is holding quite well. And had a great trip !
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4xchinook4

Observer
Hello! Been awhile since some updates with the build. So here it is. I've been re designing and building the second generation roof rack for chinook. After getting a feel for and the performance of the 1st roof rack.

So here is the new one. Its aluminum this time.
Vs chromed steel. So lighter and no worries for rust.

Is a basket vs a platform with a railing topping out at 5 " from the floor of the basket.

This one is 8'x 5'6" of usable space. And comes in at ~49lbs/ 50lbs
1st gen was 4'x 5'6" of usable space and weighed 42 lbs

No welds . I have a TiG. But no experience with Aluminum yet. And this is almost entirely made of 1/16" wall square tubing. With some ⅛" angle attached to certain zones for strength where it will need it.

Hopefully the pics can answer any questions yall have. But feel free to ask!
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4xchinook4

Observer
Also rebuilt the front drive shaft including the double cardan joint.
Using the kit from NWOR.

(North West Off Road)
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4xchinook4

Observer
Did you pop-rivet the tubing to your corner fittings?

Your rig looks really SHARP!
Thankyou. No I didn't but I will be doing something of the sort today. Before getting it fitted on. Was thinking just some self taping roofing screws with the rubber collar. But perhaps rivet might be a better way to go?

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4xchinook4

Observer
Stainless Steel large diameter pop rivets are "bad-ass". I have used them to rivet siding onto fence frame on my property TOTALLY BOMBER!!!

https://www.mcmaster.com/97525A635/

A word of warning though... Get ready for some very sore arms after the project is done. (or buy a pneumatic rivet gun) ;)
I'll see what size and material i got in the toolbox. .

You think better choice that self tap screw huh?

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4xchinook4

Observer
Wiring harnesses for racks lighting is good. And rack is now installed to the truck.
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4xchinook4

Observer
Trying an approach for water proofing the transition from camper to pop top, thats still flexible with the constant raising and lowering
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4xchinook4

Observer
Curious what you folks have to say bout this! But!....

Just kicking this idea around. No real pulling the trigger ideas going on yet , but , was looking into motor swaps, just to do some window shopping. See whats out there for reasonable/ cost effective options.

2 biggest things, (which honestly really narrows my options ) I don't want a suspension lift , more importantly I don't want a body lift .

Don't care to make my center of gravity any higher, nor do I want to body lift my camper and cab from the frame, more work than I'm interested in .


So all I've really read that could be my best option would be a 2rz/3rz swap. (Wiring doesn't worry me, and bolt in motor mounts are $150) would just need to figure out the tranny set up, since I'm currently running an L52 from an 83' so no removable bellhousing



I'm comfortable with how my 22re handles and pulls. The ol girl does alright , and I can still pass on the highway sometimes , but I'm usually cruise'n 60 - 65 mph. And ill be dropping a gear or 2 quite often with ANY kind of obvious incline lol.

Average 17 mpg (I imagine this would go up a little with the swap)


What do you guys gals think? would be worth it? Its a popular swap! But 100% of the swaps ive read about are still in an empty truck bed or 4runner(granted usually rolling on 33s ~35s)

Not a 5000 lb Chinook on 32s



Tell me of any other ideas you got instead too!

I've read about the 4.3, the 3.4 , om617, 1uz, 4bt , Etc. All mention body or suspension lifts.


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Shavessined1981

New member
Man, what an epic build! Thank you for sharing. Shame we never got these in the UK, or at least i've never seen one, that's for sure! :D

Cracking work on the refurb of the camper area (and the rest of course). I bet it's real cosy to stay in.
 

4xchinook4

Observer
Man, what an epic build! Thank you for sharing. Shame we never got these in the UK, or at least i've never seen one, that's for sure! :D

Cracking work on the refurb of the camper area (and the rest of course). I bet it's real cosy to stay in.
Thanks! Shes the "never ending" kinda build lol.

Finally found a floor plan layout i loved. But I will be redoing the construction with some more durable material vs the 3/16" plyboard .

Any suggestions?

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