The Rube Goldberg Machine Build - 2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Hard Rock

RubeGoldberg

Active member
As stated previously, I decided to go with the 3.5" MetalCloak Game-Changer RockSport edition lift. It replaces the factory control arms and track bars with beefier adjustable control arms and track bars with that have been engineered for the Jeep's specific geometry. In terms of springs, it includes dual rate coil springs with shocks built by MetalCloak that have been tuned to their specific springs. Everything works in harmony. I like that. One of the other reasons I went this route was because the MetalCloak DuroFlex joint is low-maintenance, self-centering, and rebuildable. It allows for high degrees of misalignment when flexing and has a high level of vibration dampening as well. This all translates to a smooth ride. I was concerned about NVH (noise, vibration and harshness). I wanted to raise the vehicle to increase clearance, but at the same time I wanted to maintain a stock or better than stock ride quality, and that is what has been achieved.

I actually did the front end of the lift installation myself. It was quite the experience, as I had never done anything like that before in my life, and I don't exactly have the biggest tool collection in the world, especially for automotive work.

I found a place in Atlanta (Oloba Rennsport) that is a car club with a "clubhouse" - essentially you can pay a membership fee (monthly or yearly) and have access to their warehouse with two automotive lifts.

I started work around noon, taking my time doing the work. First, I swapped the stock sway bar links, then I got the stock springs and shocks out, and then moved on to installing the new shocks, springs, and bumpstops. Then I installed the extended brakelines, bled the brakes and, finally, swapped out the control arms and the track bar. Doing all of this with hand tools made the process slow going (and required some makeshift breaker bars).

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New sway bar links installed.

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Bench full of parts!

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Front end is almost there!

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Getting the beefier track bar in the axle side bracket and getting the axle centered was the biggest pain in the ******** ever.

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About the time I was going to start the rear, I got a phone call from a concerned (now former) girlfriend.

"Hey, what's up?" I said. "Where are you?" replied the concerned voice on the other end of the phone. "At that place, installing my lift, remember?" I said. "Jason, it is 6am," she said. "Huh?," I said, confused. "You didn't come home last night," she said. I couldn't believe it. Was it really 6am? No way. One look at my iPhone's clock verified what I heard on the phone.

And that's the story of how I spent 18 hours installing the front end of my suspension.

It was time to call in the professionals. I had taken the previous day off work, but I did not plan for a second day.

I packed everything up and gave the guys at the shop (JeepTech) that did the welding work on the C gussets a call. They would be able to squeeze me in if I could get up to the shop ASAP! I drove the Jeep over to the shop, rocking the "Tennessee Tilt" (if you don't know what that is, Google it). The guys at JeepTech are awesome. If you're in Georgia and you own a Jeep, these are THE guys to go see.

The guys at the shop, with their fancy air tools and full kitted toolboxes, made quick work of the rear suspension, and I was off to Discount Tire for the KO2s. Discount Tire got the 35" KO2s mounted to the new 17" AEV Pintler wheels, and I headed back to the shop for an alignment.

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I took Rube for one his favorite meal after the work was done.

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Back home!
 

ratled

Adventurer
I really like my Gensis DB kit. I got mine for 2 reason- 63 q freezer and winching. Flood the motor in water and you only have a pull or two and you are winch less.

I just bought cameras like this E Bay link for both front and rear cameras. At this price everyone can have a fron camera for looking over the creast of a hill

Looking forward to the rest

ratled
 

RubeGoldberg

Active member
I really like my Gensis DB kit. I got mine for 2 reason- 63 q freezer and winching. Flood the motor in water and you only have a pull or two and you are winch less.

I just bought cameras like this E Bay link for both front and rear cameras. At this price everyone can have a fron camera for looking over the creast of a hill

Looking forward to the rest

ratled

Thanks! I've been told to look into National Luna's dual battery kit as well. Even to take the mounting kit from Genesis and combine it with National Luna's electrical bits.
 

RubeGoldberg

Active member
After the lift was on, it was time to check clearances. The suspension has a great deal of articulation, but I did not want my tires all up in my fenders causing problems, so I used the full 4" of bumpstop available from the kit (the bumpstops are adjustable). I also had my eye on the front end and potential contact between the inner sidewalls of the tires and the lower control arms and the top of the sway bar links, as the tire can contact those areas without the appropriate backspacing.

The AEV Pintlers I picked out worked nicely with the yellow, but they had a 5.25" backspacing, which is fine for AEV lifts, but MetalCloak recommends a backspacing between 4" and 4.5" for their suspensions.

We did a few tests on the RTI ramp to check for clearances. Even with full bumpstop, pretty impressive!

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Sure enough, the tires were making contact with the top of the sway bar link when we backed up the RTI ramp to simulate "coming down" off an obstacle, particularly when the wheel was turned just slightly.

Well. I came prepared for this. Spidertrax hub-centric wheel spacers to the rescue. I didn't want to use spacers if I didn't need to, but if I had to, the only ones I was going to use were Spidertrax spacers. I went with their 1.25" spacers for the WJ, as it actually has the same Bolt pattern as the JK. The only issue is that, in the rear, the lugs stick through the spacer just a few millimeters (1-2mm), and depending on your wheel, this could cause issues as it would not allow the mounting surface of the wheel to mount flush. However, the Pintlers have a pocketed design, so the little bit of the lugs that stick through recess into pockets in the mounting surface, thus a flush mount and no issues! It also made the stance a little more aggressive and the track ever so slightly wider, without causing clearance issues with the fenders. The turning arc changed slightly and in some cases, the tires made contact with the bumper end caps, so off they came!

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Now we were all set. Clearances checked out, no rubbing.
 

RubeGoldberg

Active member
Full disclosure... I'm skipping a mod (CB radio), and I won't be coming back to it. Reason it's being skipped? Well, for one, I don't like CB. For two, it has been decommissioned in favor of better technology.

So...

The next thing on the the list was to get the winch install buttoned up. The custom trim piece had arrived that I had ordered to cover up some of the holes that I wasn't using but that are drilled in the bumper around the fairlead.

Most of the work had already been done during the install of the winch itself, but I needed to unbolt the winch and move it to allow for room to turn a wrench.

I secured the Factor 55 fairlead and trim piece in place using grade 8 yellow zinc hardware for durability and corrosion resistance (ties into the yellow zinc MetalCloak control arms as well), then spooled the synthetic line onto the drum and capped it off with the Factor 55 ProLink winch safety thimble (hooks bad, closed system good).

At the same time, I also installed the JWM grille insert. This piece is just incredible. Beautiful powder coat, well-built and easy to install.

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Little did I know, the very next day on a trip to Gulches OHV Park in South Carolina, I'd find myself high centered, and hung up on the factory skids. Good thing I buttoned up the winch install the night before!

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You can faintly make out the shape of the factory transmission / t-case skid...

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Here's a picture post-winching where you can see the grille insert well. Note: its actual finish is gloss black powder coat, not dirt :)
 

RubeGoldberg

Active member
Next up was (real) armor.

I decided on the MetalCloak UnderCloak full skid system.

For those unfamiliar, the UnderCloak is a fully boat-sided skid system that includes a motor / oil pan skid, a transmission / transfer case skid and a gas tank skid. It also includes a heavy duty cross member as well. It's pure beef.

Here's a rendering from MetalCloak's product page that shows the system and how all of the skids tie together.

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In addition to the UnderCloak system, I ordered Riddler differential covers and lune lockers. These things are bomb proof I'm pretty sure. There's a video on YouTube where they run over these things with every piece of construction equipment imaginable, and it's absurd the size of the rig that it takes to finally crush these things.

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It's an old video, but it's entertaining:

Anyway, let's get to some install pics!

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The skids as they were delivered

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The motor / oil pan skid from front looking back

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All in place

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Another view

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One last shot of the skids (don't mind our greasy paw prints)

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Here's a look at one of the Riddler diff covers installed.

That pretty much takes care of the armor. Honestly, it's a little overkill for most of what my rig will see, but there are a few nasty trails on my bucket list that I'm sure will make me glad I invested in this level of protection.
 

RubeGoldberg

Active member
The next installment of the build thread isn't a modification, it's an expedition (of sorts)!

I was heading to Denver from Atlanta to meet some Jeep friends and explore some Colorado trails for the weekend.

The route I planned to Colorado took me from Georgia through Tennessee, Kentucky, Illinois, Missouri, and Kansas. I split the drive into two days and stopped over in Kansas City for the night.

On the way I tried to get a picture of either the state sign on the borders, or a picture that would otherwise depict the state.

First up... Tennessee!
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I missed the state sign in Kentucky, so I took a picture of some Kentucky "bluegrass" (or that's what I'm going to say it was)...
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Next up, Illinois (most horrible roads ever)...
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Next up, I hit Missouri. Approaching St. Louis, I ran into a helluva storm. Winds so strong they blew me halfway into the lane next to me. Luckily, most people had pulled over to wait out the storm, and I had the road to myself for the most part.
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I finally arrived in Kansas City where I'd rest for the night.
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In the morning, I crossed over into Kansas...
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...so much fog...
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I made a quick pitstop in Kansas for a photo op...
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And finally, I crossed over into Colorado!
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The weekend's itinerary was as follows:
  • Day 1: Kingston Peak & Rollins Pass East
  • Day 2: Deer Creek & Saints John
  • Day 3: Red Cone & Keystone Gulch
I have a lot of pictures of the trip, so I'll spread them out over a post for each day.
 

RubeGoldberg

Active member
Alright, thanks to all the recent interest and activity, I'm making the effort to finish writing up the Colorado trip tonight.

As mentioned, the weekend trail breakdown was as follows:
  • Day 1: Kingston Peak & Rollins Pass East
  • Day 2: Deer Creek & Saints John
  • Day 3: Red Cone & Keystone Gulch
A note here about day 1's itinerary: we started Rollins Pass, but turned back as one of the guys in the group had recently had surgery to repair a broken clavicle sustained during a mountain biking crash. He had just been somewhat cleared for off-road driving (he had a plate put in and activities that could jar him around were not recommended). Rollins Pass is littered with "baby heads" (rocks just poking through the road surface about the size of a baby's head that cause extreme vibration and are not fun to ride on even aired down to ~10 PSI).

Kingston Peak (Forest Service Road #353)
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Rollins Pass East (Forest Service Road #117) - Incomplete Run
One thing to note is that Rollins Pass East connects to Rollins Pass West (connecting Rollinsville to Winter Park) through Needle's Eye tunnel, but after a rock fall in the tunnel back in 1990, the tunnel has remained closed (illegally). Google something along the lines of "Rollins Pass closed illegally" or "Rollins Pass Closure Legality" and you'll find plenty of reading. There have been those that have fought the closure, but it seems not enough overwhelming support for reopening the tunnel has been shown. This is why we all need to continue being stewards and activists, pursuing this hobby of ours the right way (staying the trail, keeping our trails clean by packing out what we bring in, attending local meetups and town hall discussion, etc.) in order to keep our trails open.

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RubeGoldberg

Active member
As mentioned, the weekend trail breakdown was as follows:
  • Day 1: Kingston Peak & Rollins Pass East
  • Day 2: Deer Creek & Saints John
  • Day 3: Red Cone & Keystone Gulch
Deer Creek (Forest Service Road #FS 5)
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Saints John (Forest Service Road #FS 275)

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RubeGoldberg

Active member
As mentioned, the weekend trail breakdown was as follows:
  • Day 1: Kingston Peak & Rollins Pass East
  • Day 2: Deer Creek & Saints John
  • Day 3: Red Cone & Keystone Gulch

Red Cone Pass (Forest Service Road #565)

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Keystone Gulch (Forest Service Road #CR 175)

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