Single Battery 12V only expo trailer build recommendations


Well-known member
I've been pretty impressed with all the Victron devices I've got my hands on, I'd check out the 15A model:
and for LVD this should do: https://www.amazon.com/Victron-BPR000100400-BatteryProtect-12-24V-100A/dp/B01N6ATT8C/

then if you go solar get a victron solar controller and you can use the same app as the charger for setup/config and monitoring: https://www.amazon.com/Victron-SmartSolar-Charge-Controller-Bluetooth/dp/B075NQQRPD/

For a single battery setup, a Trojan T-1275 is a good option.. if you can find one locally you could get it under $200 OTD and give you ~75AH to 50% SOC which sounds like it'd be a ton of power for you.. If you take care of it you can rely on it for a very long time.. AGM's dont like to sit at partial charge for a few days before being recharged and give very little benefit for most weekender use cases.. you pretty much have to have adequate solar and/or genny to keep an AGM pampered for the long haul.. FLA deep cycle is significantly more tolerant to this kinda abuse as long as you keep fluid in em.
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Never leaves the house
On my truck the trailer batteries get power from a 20amp circuit. When on the move pulling 9,000 pounds of trailer the engine is spinning at 3,000 rpm or more and I always figured my 200ah of batteries were getting about as much charge as they wanted to take. Also when dry camping I'd just hit the remote start on the truck a couple times before calling it a night, didn't even need to get out of the truck!


Okay guys, I'm all set with a NOCO genius onboard charger. I like the Victron linked by @dreadlocks but I got the NOCO for $89 on sale so I went with it. Now I just need to select a good battery in the 100ah range. Do you guys have any recommendations? I was eyeballing this Renogy battery, but they pulled it from Prime. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RFXHY...olid=35JPM7FZWNPT6&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

It'll be located in the tongue box so if off-gassing isn't a concern (I don't know if it is or not), I'm open to a sealed or FLA battery. Thanks!



Well-known member
buy batteries locally if you can, you going to mail it back to amazon if it fails in warranty? you end up paying a ton for shipping.

get a FLA, they are far more durable overall than SLA for an expo trailer usecase.. SLA's are just likely to fail sooner and cost more unless you coddle the darn things.. they are better for fixed or very large installs where their benefits can actually be realized.. not portable small single battery bank that has no reliable charge source.


Engineer In Residence
Go flooded. Cheaper overall. There are some sealed flooded batteries (Valve regulated VRLA) that have removable plugs for water top offs. I have used these a couple times, and they need less watering, and spills/overflow can be directed out of the enclosure by a drain tube.

True deep cycle batteries in the 100AH size are usually expensive. If you can fit 2 or the 6V golf cart batteries (any common size) you would get a better value. They look to be too large for your enclosure though.


Rendezvous Conspiracy
Inside the the nose box this keeps the batteries topped off. in the trailer for 8 yrs and not a problem with it. 2Groupp 31 AMG deka batteries gong strong.


I thought I would post my electrical set up here since I got many of my ideas (especially dreadlock's comments) from this thread. Thank you all for your guidance. Like Hoologan, I have a Smittybilt Scout. Because of the weight of the battery I decided to locate the command center closer to the axle. I actually bought 2 Duracell batteries (6v 205Ah) from Sam's Club, but at the end, I returned them because I just couldn't fit them in the compartment along with the battery case. I went with the Trojan T 1275 and in reality my missions wouldn't need more than 150Ah. I went to a local golf cart distributor and learned they sold them used and refurbished, (significantly cheaper than new $40 vs $175). Since I would only be using the Scout 6 to 8 times a year, I thought it was worth the risk, even if it just lasted a couple of years. So far, so good. I did not spend much time or money on the alternator charging system. I kept it simple and didn't think it was worth the effort to upgrade the wiring on the jeep since a vast majority of the charging will either been done at home through the shore plug before leaving and solar while camping. Our mission will be primarily driving to a location, set up base camp and do daily outings without the trailer. The interior lights are motion sensor. The plugs are for solar and shore charging. The 12v plug was for the fridge. I eventually will add a water pump system. I am also thinking of adding the Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor. We have been out a couple of times and all is working great. The big test will be the week long trip to Big Sur in April. I hope the information helps.

IMG_2260.jpgIMG_5512.JPGIMG_5487 (2).JPGIMG_5468.JPGIMG_5467.JPGIMG_5503.JPGIMG_5514 (1).JPGScout Electrical Set up.JPGElectical set up spreadsheet.JPG

FJR Colorado

100W Renogy panel. Buy the whole starter kit on Amazon.

Yellowtop Optima AGM is great (stay away from redtops!).

See my Tundra build thread. We have similar needs. My 5 year old system is serving me well with no maintenance.

Yes, Battery Tender for home charging (not needed if you park in the sun).


Engineer In Residence
Renogy's charge controllers are generally not programmable, and rarely have absorb voltages above 14.3-14.4V. They also do not hold absorb nearly long enough. Optima generally suggest charging voltages higher than that for deeply cycled batteries.


Well-known member
I don't know why you wouldn't use the truck's 7 way as a trickle charger while driving if so equipped. Of course it isn't going to restore a deeply discharged battery overnight, but it's basically "free."

Now if your truck isn't set up, it may or may not be worth the effort to add it...


I agree that is why i have the RVi towed battery charger. You can see it in the picture. But it is not a robust charger like the Redarc. From my reading and research an upgrade to the wiring would be needed to fully take advantage of that type of charger. This was an easy and simple addition for 55 dollars.