replacing flip pac torsion bar

JasonRedwood

Explorer
Thanks. I saw that site and ended up buying there. Had to get the slightly more expensive/larger ones, $12 or so each. Still way cheaper than buying a new torsion bar!
 

JasonRedwood

Explorer
Slightly skewed from topic, but has any one had experience with the torsion hinge area. The silicone around my hinges has deteriorated a bit. Not enough to see where the water might be getting in, but it is getting in.
My thoughts were to keep it dry while I refurbish the flip-pac and seal it back up after a good few months. I am going to replace the latching hardware in the rear because its weathered and looks suspect. I know I can tear into the whole hinge area but that looks like a big can of worms. Suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
Thanks
Jason
 

RHINO

Expedition Leader
if your concerned you can unbolt and pull the hinge plates out to look into the tubes with a flashlight and asses the rust, if any, then make a final decision. but if your not planning to use a torsion bar then there isnt any force on that hinge and you dont need to get to crazy with it.
 

dman93

Adventurer
Resurrecting this thread .... as I have a line on a used FP for a very good price but it almost certainly needs a torsion bar. I only pushed it up a few inches from closed position (no crank) to check the fabric, which seems good, but the aluminum tube over the torsion bar is cracked in the middle, which seems to be the indicator of failure from what I've read. Anyway, I like this lift handle concept, but I have a stock front bumper on my T100. If the struts really need more support than fender tabs can provide, is it possible to add a piece of steel angle across the whole front edge of the FP to extend the top of struts further out, so they can run straight down to the corners of a stock steel bumper? I think I'd need this angle to prevent cantilevering the strut pivots out too far. Or what about a padded, shaped bar across the hood that distributes the load enough to not damage the hood.

All this assumes A) that getting a replacement bar is still an ordeal, and B) that a 1/2" bar that rotates over 90 degrees each way, even if 6' long, is just stressed too much. Who knows if they really use spring-quality steel, or properly heat treat it after it's splined?

Thanks - dman93
 

Michael Quinn

New member
Hey guys
I've had my FlipPac for about 2 1/2 years. It hasn't been used in the past six months and the other day I went to install a rack on the top, and noticed the torsion bar looked like it had snapped. It appears (check out the photo) that perhaps there was water penetration into the casing of the spring and froze splitting the bar like a like a frozen pipe (I live in Maine). Anyway the top does not open now, or at least not easily...I haven't tried to open all the way because I'm afraid I may not get the cap closed or that it will be easier to replace if the cap is still on aligned?

Can I get some advice on replacing. What has worked for you guys, what hasn't? Is this a one person job in a drive way type of job that will take a day to do, or is there a lot of rigging involved and special equipment? Do I have to go through FlipPac to get a new torsion bar (customer service is as you know non-existent) or is there someone else who can supply quicker?

Spring is here and I want to get this done right away. Please any help!!!
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