Project Victory_Overland 08 LR3 Build Thread!

Excellent!! Do you have the part number for that water pump?
The Delco is a cast one piece unit. The factory pump is two piece with another gasket. Not sure why because you can rebuild them both if needed but I wanted a metal impeller due to what I've read on LR water pumps. I'll let you know how it runs when I fire it up. Lol

Here is the water pump off Amazon Prime ( I'm on Hawaii so Amazon Prime is my savior on parts shipping).

ACDelco 252-800 Professional Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IYZHNI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_N2W1wb2AQQV5D

Here is the coolant thermostat housing on the top of the engine. FYI, you have to pull the throttle body to change this. Comes with new temp switch and thermostat installed.

Genuine Land Rover Coolant Thermostat Housing Tube Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y0Y4LY8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_d5W1wbR6MARRQ
 

ColoDisco

Explorer
I have done several. I am a LR tech at the Flatirons LR. I am looking for a good trail spare. Factory pump is too expensive.
 
I have done several. I am a LR tech at the Flatirons LR. I am looking for a good trail spare. Factory pump is too expensive.
I'm doing the same thing. My factory take off was probably good, at least it feels okay and the impeller is in great shape. I only replaced it because I had the entire front of the motor taken apart and for me it was a change worth the time, effort and money with the ease of accessibility. I'm going to clean up the factory one, get a new gasket and put it in the spare bin in the garage for that day.

I heard good things on the AC Delco pump so that is why I ordered it. I guess I'll find out what kid of mileage I get out of it here soon.
 
Was that radiator all metal, or the metal/plastic hybrid? What did it set you back? How does it compare to OE?
Here is the link. OEM for the LR3 from Atlantic British. My original one in the truck was metal with the plastic side housings but the hose connections were aluminum. I would have just replaced the side mounting housings but the radiator hit the fan and needed replacement. The radiator core is all aluminum and the sides are plastic on this and if my memory serves me right, the hose connections are plastic on the new one. Went in super easy and all parts lined up and brackets that needed to be swapped from the old to new with zero issues. I have not run the truck yet with the new one, but it looks the same to me in every other aspect, fit, form, etc.... Wrapped in a pretty box, sealed in plastic and padded from Atlantic British. I would normally steer away from the plastic hose connections, but since breaking down my engine cooling system, almost every part is plastic for cooling connections throughout the entire vehicle except at the heater core and OE radiator on line crossover line at the front of the engine. I do not foresee a problem with this one, but I guess only time will tell.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/LR021777
 
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GAP IID Tool has arrived

Look what the wind blew in! Thanks to Lucky8 for my new Bluetooth GAP IID Tool! I was hoping there would be a little minion in the box to show me how to use it but no such luck.........:wings:

Victory GAP IID Tool.jpg
 
In my opinion, 0.75" Spacers are the way to go. They will give you plenty of clearance to run whatever width tire you want without requiring a lot of modifications to your fender liners, fender flares, frame horns, and front bumper. Adding spacers increases the amount of travel forward and back of the wheel, and you can run into problems fast.


Here is what I know from real world experience:
-You can run a 285/65/18 AT (not MT) tire ( 11.2" wide, 32.6" tall) without any spacers and you will only have to trim some of the inner fender liner and relocate your sensor wires on the left front. If you have rear AC there may be some lines to relocate in the left rear running this size but I don't so I cant comment on experience.
-You can run a 285/50/20 AT tire (11.2" wide, 31.2" tall) with .75" spacers BUT you will need to remove about an inch from the bottom of the front bumper and pull the fender liner forward or run an aftermarket front bumper.

My point is, that despite moving down in diameter from a 32.6" tire to a 31.2" tire, I actually had to modify my front wheel clearances MORE.
This is due to the fact that your tire is 285 wide. (mm)
 

zelatore

Explorer
Also bear in mind not all 285s will be the same actual measurement.

As an example, I used to run a 275/65-18 and switched to a 275/70-18. In theory they should both be the same width but the new tire is almost .5" wider.
 
Thanks for the reply guys. I'm gonna be running the narrowest possible for best traction on the MT for actual mud use. Pizza cutters are the way to go IMO.

On a serious note, no wider than needed for sure on this end. I'll be hitting you guys up with my results and your knowledge when I get to the tire sizing.
 
Congrats! AFAIK the latest version of the manual is on the GAP site as a PDF. Have fun :ylsmoke:
Well, I ran into my first problem. Have the IID Tool hooked up, all files loaded but of course I think I may have a problem since my ECU has about 200 faults from everything being disconnected. Also the truck will not start cuz the Airbag Code is on the IID Tool screen and I do not think I can refresh that. I didn't have an airbag light at impact or when the Landy was running afterwords.

NOTE: My airbags were never disconnected or blown from the accident and in fact the truck ran just fine minus loosing the coolant before I shut it off. Once it came back from the collision center from disassembly I think that the airbag sensors were disturbed and therefore need to be reset.

Does anyone know how to do this or can the IID Tool even do this or am I forced to get the whole airbag system looked at and reflashed from the stealership?

Thanks all!
 

cmb6s

Adventurer
The IID tool should be able to clear airbag faults, but it will come back immediately if something is still wrong. Per the disco3 board recommendations, I would check your connectors underneath the seats and make sure all are seated properly and good and tight. Also check your splices down in that lower door sill area. Not at the computer right now, but I have wiring diagrams that I can send you if you want to figure out which wires are safety restraint system/airbag related.
 
The IID tool should be able to clear airbag faults, but it will come back immediately if something is still wrong. Per the disco3 board recommendations, I would check your connectors underneath the seats and make sure all are seated properly and good and tight. Also check your splices down in that lower door sill area. Not at the computer right now, but I have wiring diagrams that I can send you if you want to figure out which wires are safety restraint system/airbag related.
Found it!!!!! Right bumper sensor was loose. Did the hard reset and when the fault tripped the next key turn on the IID Tool, it said "Right SRS Sensor Communication Fault". I reset the key, the battery, connector, battery and key and boom. Did the fuel prime feature on the IID Tool and she fired right up. Purring like an African Lion post leaf eater kill! :wings:
 
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