Project "Autonomous" F-350

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
I have selected Odyssey AGM Batteries for my electrical storage needs. I am running a group 65 under the hood. Notice the military style battery terminals. They make is simple to add cables without disturbing the terminal end. You just gang up anything you want to power onto the 3/8" bolt that goes through the end of the terminal.

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For the house batteries I fabbed up a mount that ties into the body mount bolts and the seatbelt mounting holes. I removed the back seat for more storage and chose this location for my batteries to help with weight distribution.

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The house batteries are two group 31 Odysseys. They will be charged with a combination of the Powermaster 200 amp alternator, Solar panels and I am thinking of adding a wind generator for times when solar is not available. I am controlling the input with a CTEK D250S charge control/isolator.

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Here is the completed mount

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pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
I sent my pitman arm cad files out to get cut today but did little else. I thought I would talk about my goals on this project. The reason for my build is to have a mobile base where I can do my work. I shoot photos of racing events, I write and shoot magazine features and do misc writing and cad design jobs for several clients. I travel a lot so I got tired of paying a mortgage on a place I never see. This rig will give me both the mobility and the freedom to go where I want. The debate over having luxuries or going with the bare basics has gone on forever. I want to be self contained. I may be in the desert for weeks or attending a meeting with clients in the city; I need to have the tools to do both comfortably. Once on the road, I would like to do some travel stories too. Below are some samples of my photography. :sombrero:

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Shiryas

Adventurer
Pappawheely (Mike?),

Nice looking rig and setup. I have a F350 crewcab as well but its the 7.3 and refreshing the steering is up next for my rig. I have found a lot of internet posts regarding the Saginaw pump from "possible" to "never going to clear the aluminum bracket", but have not seen anyone install it on our trucks until now.

Did you use the Saginaw adapter for the 5.0/Ranger on your swap?

Like this:
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/ford-5-0-saginaw-pump-adapter-bracket.html

Any other info on this swap would be greatly appreciated.
-I see some dimensions/angles noted on your bracket.
-Any idea what Saginaw version?
-Pulley swapped over?
-Just 'clearance' the factory bracket? or an OEM bracket from another engine?

A Redhead steering box and hydroboost brakes are waiting for the Ford pump to be removed since its not up to the task.

Cheers, Chris
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
Pappawheely (Mike?),

Nice looking rig and setup. I have a F350 crewcab as well but its the 7.3 and refreshing the steering is up next for my rig. I have found a lot of internet posts regarding the Saginaw pump from "possible" to "never going to clear the aluminum bracket", but have not seen anyone install it on our trucks until now.

Did you use the Saginaw adapter for the 5.0/Ranger on your swap?

Like this:
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/ford-5-0-saginaw-pump-adapter-bracket.html

Any other info on this swap would be greatly appreciated.
-I see some dimensions/angles noted on your bracket.
-Any idea what Saginaw version?
-Pulley swapped over?
-Just 'clearance' the factory bracket? or an OEM bracket from another engine?

A Redhead steering box and hydroboost brakes are waiting for the Ford pump to be removed since its not up to the task.

Cheers, Chris
Chris, I used a saginaw pump off the same year E-350 van (1992). I used the correct Ford pulley for my truck; it fit the shaft. If you can score the right E-350 bracket it's a bolt-on conversion. Most of the ambulances where diesels so you may be able to find the factory piece; mine is a gas motor. The dimension marked on my factory bracket is the distance from the face of the bracket to the side of the pulley. Getting your belt line right is critical. I bought the 5.0 adapter from PSC but it was too thick. I used it as a template and made my own spacers from 3/16" thick steel. I made two plates; I put one between the pump and the bracket and put the other one on the front to sandwich the factory bracket for additional support. I cut the end off the stock pressure line and had an adapter to an line tig welded the the end. You need a saginaw style fitting on one end and a ford on the other. I clearanced the stock bracket to clear the saginaw pump. The saginaw reservoir is not as tall so you can actually get the dipstick in and out easier. Let me know if you have any other questions. It was trial and error for me; I'm glad to share what I learned doing it.

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mp_tx

Observer
Looking forward to the build out! I have thought of the reutilizing that Uhaul box many times....
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
Reliability is important to me so I've spent some time on my engine and it's systems.

When I pulled the PS pump to do the Saginaw upgrade I discovered the factory ford heat exchanger, (I am new to Fords). The thought of what might happen should the exchanger fail caused me to find a way to delete it. The possibility of coolant being pumped through the oil filter made me nervous. I removed the exchanger and fabricated a bypass manifold that seals to the oil filter mount. I also ran the oil lines to a remote mounted cooler and oil filter. Then I switched to Maxima 100% synthetic oil. I have run synthetic lubricants for years and am very happy with the diverse line of products from Maxima. I am running their coolant, Motor oil, transmission fluid and gear oil, I'm covered!

Here is the manifold and remote filter mount.

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Normally the coolant flows from the water pump around the oil flowing inside the heat exchanger. On my truck the oil flows through the blue painted manifold instead. It is made from bar stock and tubing and seals with o-rings like the exchanger did. You must run the correct lower radiator hose for a 460 without heat exchanger. The oil flows through a fluted cooler mounted below the radiator x-member.

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The filter is mounted to the SORD shackle reversal x-member. I can loosen the band clamps and rotate it to a vertical position to change the filter.

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Under the hood I replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, brake master cylinder, hoses, belts, belt tensioner and fan clutch. I am also running a Powermaster 200 amp alternator. I found a great deal on a Champion aluminum radiator from Andy's Autosport. The Champion radiator is not a cheapo, it has billet necks, no epoxy and beautiful welds. My truck has a manual transmission so I was hoping to use the automatic trans cooler built into the radiator to cool the power steering fluid but the engineers at Champion did not recommend it, the pressure is too high.

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I still have a ton of work to do mounting my box, building the interior and completing all the systems; electrical (with solar), water and propane.
 
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SteveG

Adventurer
The Champion radiator is not a cheapo, it has billet necks, no epoxy and beautiful welds. My truck has a manual transmission so I was hoping to use the automatic trans cooler built into the radiator to cool the power steering fluid but the engineers at Champion did not recommend it, the pressure is too high.
Not that I would advise going against what Champion recommended but pressure on the return side of the power steering is low. I don't see how it could cause a problem. Still, I've always used a separate cooler for the power steering on my Fords. Although I've never had an issue, I'm told using the stacked type coolers is no good for power steering as it restricts flow. The Go-Fast guys recommend the old-school multi-pass trans coolers for power steering. And, yes, a power steering cooler is a good idea in a Ford that will see heavy use.
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
Not that I would advise going against what Champion recommended but pressure on the return side of the power steering is low. I don't see how it could cause a problem. Still, I've always used a separate cooler for the power steering on my Fords. Although I've never had an issue, I'm told using the stacked type coolers is no good for power steering as it restricts flow. The Go-Fast guys recommend the old-school multi-pass trans coolers for power steering. And, yes, a power steering cooler is a good idea in a Ford that will see heavy use.
I'm with you, I just picked up another one of these to cool the PS fluid.

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