OVRLND CAMPERS ONLY : Post your OVRLND Camper build here or a link to your build thread to inspire others!

[montechie]

Good to hear your experience with the Havelock, I am still researching but my current plan was havelock in the roof with polyiso in the walls. Do you have a pic of the headliner material? I may have to hit up Jay to get one built.

That's also sounds like a good approach, I need to settle on a wall cover material. The middle pic above is the headliner detached, you can kind of see the thin foam backing. Here are some previous pics of the ceiling with the headliner. I really like the quality of the stitching and ease of removing/reattaching it for the purpose of installing wiring or insulation. I would replicate the same for my walls but I think the material is a little soft for my walls+mountain bikes, and want something heavier like car cover material or carpet.

 

[crismateski]

That's also sounds like a good approach, I need to settle on a wall cover material. The middle pic above is the headliner detached, you can kind of see the thin foam backing. Here are some previous pics of the ceiling with the headliner. I really like the quality of the stitching and ease of removing/reattaching it for the purpose of installing wiring or insulation. I would replicate the same for my walls but I think the material is a little soft for my walls+mountain bikes, and want something heavier like car cover material or carpet.

I have a 5-year-old and a dog, I don't think fabric walls would last long. I was thinking the 1" poly inset in the walls with either 1/2" polyiso or more likely this https://amzn.to/3GUms7K to break the thermal bridge over the frame and skin it in Luan or plastic sheeting like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Plastic-Panel-63003/202090190

 

[aaaslayer]

I have a 5-year-old and a dog, I don't think fabric walls would last long. I was thinking the 1" poly inset in the walls with either 1/2" polyiso or more likely this https://amzn.to/3GUms7K to break the thermal bridge over the frame and skin it in Luan or plastic sheeting like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Plastic-Panel-63003/202090190

I was going to go with the 1/16th plastic panel too found at Home Depot or Lowes but it is crazy heavy for what it is. I wound up using 4x8 sheets of Coroplast that is ridiculously lightweight, way easier to cut, and sturdy for what it is intended for, a wall.

 

[vgreen36]

Looking for the general (rough) square footage of insulated surface on the camper (both total with if with out roof. If above has that info. I don't have my topper yet, looking at insulation options avg want to put a plan to paper.

TIA

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

 

[vgreen36]

I added Havlock wool to the ceiling under the OVRLND headliner. Super easy to undo/redo the headliner, I like the material OVRLND used, it's foam backed and provides both a bit of insulation and breathability. There are rivnuts at each end and velcro holding the sides of the liner. We added a single layer of wool for now (2" ~R7-value). I think the headliner is snug enough to hold the wool batts in place, I'll see in a couple months. A single box of Havlock (100sq ft) provides more than enough to insulate probably any OVRLND size, with my Gladiator bed I'm going to have lots extra.

The wool is very easy to work with, cut with scissors, and can quickly pull off tufts to fill in any gaps. With two people it took us about an hour. Even though the wool is non-toxic you'll want a mask and eye-protection for the install, it drops some wool dust/fibers. Not the cheapest option out there ($150/100sqft), but I was really intrigued by using such a good natural insulator, has great mildew+moisture control over anything else and the Havlock stuff isn't chemically treated.

I still have to settle on what to cover the walls with over the wool, so that's a project for later. Breathability is key since wool has it's own moisture control, I'm looking at headliner material, auto carpeting, DWR treated canvas, or even marine carpet. The marine carpet is tempting because it is foam backed and would insulate the metal beams really well without the need for additional foam/neoprene tape.
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Did you use the wool on just the ceiling or do you plan on using it for the vertical walls as well? I am considering using the wool for the very same reasons. I am trying to figure out square footage (since i don't have the topper yet), so i know me costs and how much to order regardless of the insulating product i decide to use

 

[dstefan]

Including the ceiling and cabover. I had a little leftover, but it was just about the right amount. Also used two 4x8 sheets of coroplast on top.

Edit: forgot to say it was helpful to be able to get this in different widths. Saved a lot of cutting — 4’ for ceiling, 2’ for walls, 6” for the cabover, etc.

 

[dstefan]

We spent 12 days in early May up in the SR Swell and the Maze. the crazy UT spring winds were intense at times with two significant dust events. REALLY made me want to check the forecast. We were in several area where there was faint cell signals, but not strong enough to get a forecast. So, I did this:


I had Jay install the awning (shipped straight to him during the build) and they did me a big favor by not using the two mounts (10 lbs!) designed for roof racks that came with it. They made two light, but stout alu brackets:

There are two corresponding brackets on the awning:

The vertical wall sticking up has two holes and the two halves of the bracket mate when mounted and are secured with two bolts per bracket. Its a bit fiddly to take it down and put up, but not really hard. Great mounting system.

I made a bracket out of 2”x3” 3/16 alu angle I had left from another small project and made an antenna mount that bolted on to the back of the D side bracket on the awning using the top existing bolt from the awning and added two more. Like a dummy, I didn’t take a picture of that detail.



I attached a scrap piece of 1 sided track 8020 15 series and bought an 8020 15 series pivot hinge to mount to it. Used another piece of the 2x3 alu angle for the top bracket the antenna is bolted into. It’s all very heavy duty. Thought about using the Rhino Rack antenna mount, but it was $100 vs $25 for the 8020 and sold out everywhere. May switch to it later if needed. It’s marginally easier to use as it has a knob to tighten and the 8020 hinge needs an allen wrench or hex head bit, but otherwise the 8020 one is real easy to raise and lower.

Drilled a 3/8s hole with a grommet (circled on red in earlier picture) for the cable pass through. Went larger than the WeBoost cable needed to allow for stubbing out wires for a future flood light. I also tapped the four end holes in the 8020 flat extrusion in the mounting bracket to attach the flood …somehow.

Used 3m 4200 adhesive/caulk and Butyl tape inside on top to seal the hole. Was gonna use a cable gland for the pass through, but side entry ones bend the cable too much and the top entry one I did get was too thick to fit behind the awning and not crimp the cable, so went with the marine vent cover. BTW the ugly caulk job on the awning track is my doing, not Jay’s!

The antenna cable is just routed along my other wires under the bed rail and terminates at the booster box next to my batterybox. I decided not to try to take this into the cab. I may add a mobile router later.

I used both antenna exensions for a 43” reach to clear the camper top when raise. I don’t plan to drive with it raised, but guess I could, at least according to WeBoost.

My house has terrible cell reception. Trying it in my driveway, it was able to boost 1 bar to 3, and in multiple speed tests went from ~5 mbps speeds 4g/LTE to ~15- 20 mbps, so it works! It even works a bit with the antenna folded down. Should make some difference at times in the wild. YMMV!

 

[aaaslayer]

This is a great forum. Please continue posing pictures of your interiors, which is next up on my build.
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nice custom work, but wrong thread. this thread is for ovrlnd campers only

 

[montechie]

Did you use the wool on just the ceiling or do you plan on using it for the vertical walls as well? I am considering using the wool for the very same reasons. I am trying to figure out square footage (since i don't have the topper yet), so i know me costs and how much to order regardless of the insulating product i decide to use

So far I've only put it in the ceiling, but am going to do the walls as well. I have some other considerations about my walls like mounting points and the cover material (probably car cover material). My camper is only on a 5' truck bed, but I think a single Havelock box is over double what I needed for the whole camper, although I may experiment with doubling the density in key areas next winter. Currently a single bat thickness (~2" thick) fills up the wall spaces and worked well in the ceiling as well.

 

[vgreen36]

So far I've only put it in the ceiling, but am going to do the walls as well. I have some other considerations about my walls like mounting points and the cover material (probably car cover material). My camper is only on a 5' truck bed, but I think a single Havelock box is over double what I needed for the whole camper, although I may experiment with doubling the density in key areas next winter. Currently a single bat thickness (~2" thick) fills up the wall spaces and worked well in the ceiling as well.

How did you secure it to the ceiling? if I remember correctly I saw painter's tape, but not sure if that was a temp solution or perm. then putting the liner back up? Awesome good to know 1 box should be good but the worst case would be 2 so from a budgeting perspective.. good to go. I am still looking at various options for the wall coverings. Ultimately, I will have some Molle panels for structural vertical storage options. I might do Coroplast then carpet the flat surface over top of that.

 

[montechie]

How did you secure it to the ceiling? if I remember correctly I saw painter's tape, but not sure if that was a temp solution or perm. then putting the liner back up? Awesome good to know 1 box should be good but the worst case would be 2 so from a budgeting perspective.. good to go. I am still looking at various options for the wall coverings. Ultimately, I will have some Molle panels for structural vertical storage options. I might do Coroplast then carpet the flat surface over top of that.

The way my roof liner is attached to the ceiling (along every wall + to the wood center supports + roof fan) I didn't need anything permanent to hold the wool, although I'm sure I forgot some tape . Some people recommend a mildew resistant (ie, nylon) cord/line to hold the wool. That's probably what I'll do in the walls on the bigger sections and to prevent any movement. With our weather I've only had it on about 20 miles of rough road, but so far it's staying put, true test will be this whole season, but the wool is so easy to work with and adjust that experimenting is a non-issue. The OVRLND has these cross support tubes through the metal ribs/studs, I could tuck the wool bats above them so they also added support. I also only took only parts of the roof liner down at a time, then reattached and did the next section. Yeah, the Coroplast + carpet could be nice too, I'm wanting to do neoprene tape to cover the struts (to reduce thermal bridging, but Coroplast would negate the need for that. I'm not an expert, but I wouldn't want to seal up the insulation too much and having breathability is very important to take advantage of wool's moisture management.

 

[montechie]

Definitely appreciated the low clearance of a popup camper this last weekend, not to mention the lightweight. Sitting flush with the sides of the bed rails was also huge, I would've had to bail on some routes and backtrack if I had a Kimbo or a Project M or definitely would've damaged one of those where I went. I had to wiggle through some tight rock+tree spots in the Pipestone OHV region outside of Butte, MT.

 

[dstefan]

Besides making me want better cell signal to check weather, the other thing the crazy spring winds in UT made me want was a way to hold my barn doors open straight out for some wind blockage. After wracking what’s left of my brain, and searching for the right hold-fast hinge, I couldn’t find anything else that would work with those big barn door hinges so, I did this (P-side closed):

D-side open:


They worked great on our most recent trip in N. AZ to get out of the heat. Held the doors great, and often didn’t need the knob that screws into the door frame (not shown). The side benefit was a place to hang stuff like a trash bag when tailgating, or a towel, etc.

The base is one-channel, 1/2” 10 series 8020 VHB’d and screwed (self tapping) into the corner frame member. Well sealed w/3M 4200. Then a 10 series, 180°, 8020 pivot hinge mounted to the base, with left over 10 series 4 channel to connect to the door frame. I drilled in a 1/4 -20 alu Rivnut into the door frame. Using a 1/4-20 knob end bolt to lock it down when needed.

The hinge is adjusted medium tight so its easily moveable, but stays in position and doesn’t need constant tightening. When bolted to the door frame its quite rigid and holds securely in the wind.

The one thing I’d do different is use a steel rivnut in the door since I’ll be bolting and un-bolting a fair amount over time, but I think the alu rivnuts will be fine.

What is everyone else doing with your campers? It's been pretty quiet here lately…

 

[montechie]

What is everyone else doing with your campers? It's been pretty quiet here lately…

Camping too much to modify my OVRLND .

Just got back from a 2700 mile road trip through ID, NV, CA, OR, & MT. Sadly not a ton of offroad. We appreciated the camper since we had our truck bed full of boxes from my in-laws and could still have a usable in-door bed. REALLY liked having the MaxxFan to quickly cool down the topper after driving in 90ish weather. The insulated roof also shined for keeping the temp down in the back. Loved having a space away from mosquitos while still getting good view from the bedroom.

I have a better idea of where I want indoor storage now, so I'll be ordering some 80/20 rails and finally start on insulating and wall coverings. Although I'll probably just put that all aside for more weekend Montana adventures this summer while fire season hasn't fully started yet.

Humboldt Redwoods SP


Painted Hills, OR

Little Camas Reservoir, ID

 

[dstefan]

Camping too much to modify my OVRLND .

That’s a good thing!

Yeah, I can’t get over just how much air that MaxFan can move. Really happy with it too.

I’m a firm believer that that using it is the best way to know how to modify it without regrets. ’Course there's always that one thing or another I wish I’d done differently …