OBI Dweller Review and Discussion

gendlert

Active member
going to pick up these LiFe batteries to replace the AGMs soon, has anyone else done that?

Might see if I can find room to squeeze an additional one in, too.

Following that post will save you a few bucks, get you the extra 100Ah you want, and get you a low temp cut-off. It's been working REALLY well, and I'm very pleased with the results.
 

tjtx

Member

Following that post will save you a few bucks, get you the extra 100Ah you want, and get you a low temp cut-off. It's been working REALLY well, and I'm very pleased with the results.

Are your batteries not under the bench seat to the left when facing the back of the trailer? I guess I might have the older production of the Dweller 13:


 

gendlert

Active member
Are your batteries not under the bench seat to the left when facing the back of the trailer? I guess I might have the older production of the Dweller 13:
Whoa. Nope. Mine are under the bed. That's an interesting twist. Can you remove the divider or is it structural somehow? If you can remove it, you have plenty of room for a 400Ah brick.

FWIW, I like your layout better. I bet mine's older.
 

tjtx

Member
Whoa. Nope. Mine are under the bed. That's an interesting twist. Can you remove the divider or is it structural somehow? If you can remove it, you have plenty of room for a 400Ah brick.

FWIW, I like your layout better. I bet mine's older.

The divider seems structural for the seat tbh, the EG4 batteries might be a just drop-in and they already have low temp cutoff already in their integral BMS. An MPPT solar controller would be nice though.

We took it out for a trial run Sunday night and ran out of water so we had to come home. The Truma hot water heater showers were too good. Turns out the back tank only holds about 18-19 gallons and the front about 23-24 gallons After a little investigation at home. Quite a bit different than the 31/21 the brochure says. We'd only filled the rear to try and reduce some tongue weight.

I'm planning on swapping the Monroe shocks in and putting an equalizer WD hitch on in the next week or two. It tows OK with our Tacoma but past 65mph it's pretty sketchy, and the rear of the truck is pretty squat.
 

gendlert

Active member
The divider seems structural for the seat tbh, the EG4 batteries might be a just drop-in and they already have low temp cutoff already in their integral BMS. An MPPT solar controller would be nice though.

We took it out for a trial run Sunday night and ran out of water so we had to come home. The Truma hot water heater showers were too good. Turns out the back tank only holds about 18-19 gallons and the front about 23-24 gallons After a little investigation at home. Quite a bit different than the 31/21 the brochure says. We'd only filled the rear to try and reduce some tongue weight.

I'm planning on swapping the Monroe shocks in and putting an equalizer WD hitch on in the next week or two. It tows OK with our Tacoma but past 65mph it's pretty sketchy, and the rear of the truck is pretty squat.
OK, since those batteries have a better BMS than what I installed, they really would be drop-in with the equipment you've got. I couldn't find a teardown video of that model, but the other equipment EG4 makes looks like it's very well-built. I wouldn't spend the $250 on an MPPT unless something went wrong with your Renogy controller. But Victron is undoubtedly the "nice stuff."

As for water, how'd you measure how much you put in? Did you have a 5-gallon can you were using to fill? We've found that the front tank alone will get us through a 4-night trip no problem, but we're pretty efficient with water. Both tanks will get us through a week-long trip.

I hope the shocks help; they made a huge difference for me. I still don't drive over 70 unless I'm passing, but I'm happy enough over in the right lane hanging in the draft of a big rig to get a couple more mpgs. It's a heavy trailer, too. Maybe some towing airbags for your rear end would help if the squat becomes a problem.
 

tjtx

Member
As for water, how'd you measure how much you put in? Did you have a 5-gallon can you were using to fill? We've found that the front tank alone will get us through a 4-night trip no problem, but we're pretty efficient with water. Both tanks will get us through a week-long trip.

I hope the shocks help; they made a huge difference for me. I still don't drive over 70 unless I'm passing, but I'm happy enough over in the right lane hanging in the draft of a big rig to get a couple more mpgs. It's a heavy trailer, too. Maybe some towing airbags for your rear end would help if the squat becomes a problem.

We filled the tanks and then pumped it out into 5gal tanks using the front water spigot to measure.

I'm hoping the Equalizer hitch helps with the squatting, I'll find out in a day or two once everything arrives and the rain stops.
 
An update to an earlier post of mine. I've been trying to get my 2017 Ranger Rover to recognize the dweller when I plug it into the vehicle. When the Range Rover recognizes that a trailer is attached it disables the backup warning beeps and it also performs some sort of stabilization when driving.

Anyway, the Rover needs a minimum resistance in the brake/turn signal lights to recognize that a trailer has been plugged in. New LED lights don't meet that minimum. I tired attaching the appropriate resistor to the wiring immediately behind the brake lights, but no luck.

So I decided to go to the source. I ran a couple of wires directly from the 7-pin connector (left turn signal and ground) to the trailer frame and attached the resistor there. I ran new wires in case it didn't work, I didn't want to cut into the existing wires. This solved my problem! So there must be something that is happening to the wiring between the 7-pin connecter and the brake/turn signals. I know that the gauge of the wires is reduced. Must be something else in-between as well.

Here's a pic of the resister mounted to the trailer frame.

IMG_3597.jpg

Bernie
 

USR103

New member
Hello all, I'm looking at purchasing a D15 new. Any advice on the sale to ask or look for? How about delivery inspection?

Thanks for all the great posts, they really help
 

Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
Okay I can't help myself here. So ROA in UT and I believe SC have the most inventory of Dweller and Conqueror units. Therefore i assume the most likely dealer to negotiate discounts. If you need the least expensive D15 look for 2022 model . ROA has one listed at 46k.

Keep in mind every tom, Richard and Harry dealership in the US Mass Produced RV market carry the Dweller line. Expect minimal support, knowledge, sales pitchs on warranty upgrades and cheap coffee.
But do to thier ignorance sometimes they don't know what they have and will unload cheap. Make sure you have a local Mobile rv mechanic on retainer.
 

gendlert

Active member
Hello all, I'm looking at purchasing a D15 new. Any advice on the sale to ask or look for? How about delivery inspection?

Thanks for all the great posts, they really help
Dwellers have good bones, and if you can negotiate a discount, more power to you! Mass production has its flaws in RVs, just like any auto manufacturer or home-builder. You'll likely have to navigate a couple issues if you buy a Dweller, but nothing that wouldn't be a deal-breaker, especially if you do get that discount, like Obsessed recommends (it's good advice to look for last year's models).

As for delivery inspection, I'd want to check for:
  • Lug torque (a few have been over-torqued; would be problematic to change a tire in the field)
  • Gas strut functionality (make sure things that are supposed to open stay open, and close without too much trouble)
  • Latch/slide check around the trailer
  • Trailer "lean" (look at the front of the D15 and see if it's leaning when parked; I think this can be fixed by switching the side the tongue jack is mounted on)
  • Bathroom caulk check (if they've been sitting on the lot for a while, you might see the seams spreading a bit)
  • Propane line check (make them light the stove)
  • Plumbing leak check (run the sinks and shower, then check under the bed and dinette for any sign of water)
  • Tire pressure before you take it home; should be pretty high for the tow on the road (I think it's 72psi?), and you can adjust it as you see fit
  • Rear brake light/turn signal check when hooked up to YOUR tow vehicle (should be done before EVERY trip, but make sure it's all working while you're still there)
Anyone else got other things they can think of?

Okay I can't help myself here. So ROA in UT and I believe SC have the most inventory of Dweller and Conqueror units. Therefore i assume the most likely dealer to negotiate discounts. If you need the least expensive D15 look for 2022 model . ROA has one listed at 46k.

Keep in mind every tom, Richard and Harry dealership in the US Mass Produced RV market carry the Dweller line. Expect minimal support, knowledge, sales pitchs on warranty upgrades and cheap coffee.
But do to thier ignorance sometimes they don't know what they have and will unload cheap. Make sure you have a local Mobile rv mechanic on retainer.
I highly recommend becoming your own mobile RV mechanic regardless of brand you purchase. I've yet to see a thread of any brand of trailer that hasn't included owners making mods or fixing stuff, even Kimberley and Trail Marker. Kingdom might be the exception so far, but that's only because the mods have been designed into the plan real-time by the prime user. ;) In almost every fix I've come across, doing it myself has taken far less time and effort than taking it to the dealer for warranty issues. Nothing has been much more expensive than the gas getting back and forth to the dealer would have been, either. And you get to learn a bit more about your trailer.

Campers aren't all that hard to work on, and most fixes and mods are simplified with a YouTube video. The bigger rigs are actually easier in many respects because you've got room to work with for plumbing, wiring, and storage solutions. D15s are cool. If you don't need the bunks, though, I think D13s are even cooler, but I'm definitely biased. Good luck with whatever you get!
 

USR103

New member
We're do you live?
Dwellers have good bones, and if you can negotiate a discount, more power to you! Mass production has its flaws in RVs, just like any auto manufacturer or home-builder. You'll likely have to navigate a couple issues if you buy a Dweller, but nothing that wouldn't be a deal-breaker, especially if you do get that discount, like Obsessed recommends (it's good advice to look for last year's models).

As for delivery inspection, I'd want to check for:
  • Lug torque (a few have been over-torqued; would be problematic to change a tire in the field)
  • Gas strut functionality (make sure things that are supposed to open stay open, and close without too much trouble)
  • Latch/slide check around the trailer
  • Trailer "lean" (look at the front of the D15 and see if it's leaning when parked; I think this can be fixed by switching the side the tongue jack is mounted on)
  • Bathroom caulk check (if they've been sitting on the lot for a while, you might see the seams spreading a bit)
  • Propane line check (make them light the stove)
  • Plumbing leak check (run the sinks and shower, then check under the bed and dinette for any sign of water)
  • Tire pressure before you take it home; should be pretty high for the tow on the road (I think it's 72psi?), and you can adjust it as you see fit
  • Rear brake light/turn signal check when hooked up to YOUR tow vehicle (should be done before EVERY trip, but make sure it's all working while you're still there)
Anyone else got other things they can think of?


I highly recommend becoming your own mobile RV mechanic regardless of brand you purchase. I've yet to see a thread of any brand of trailer that hasn't included owners making mods or fixing stuff, even Kimberley and Trail Marker. Kingdom might be the exception so far, but that's only because the mods have been designed into the plan real-time by the prime user. ;) In almost every fix I've come across, doing it myself has taken far less time and effort than taking it to the dealer for warranty issues. Nothing has been much more expensive than the gas getting back and forth to the dealer would have been, either. And you get to learn a bit more about your trailer.

Campers aren't all that hard to work on, and most fixes and mods are simplified with a YouTube video. The bigger rigs are actually easier in many respects because you've got room to work with for plumbing, wiring, and storage solutions. D15s are cool. If you don't need the bunks, though, I think D13s are even cooler, but I'm definitely biased. Good luck with whatever you get!
Thank you for information
 

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