M416 lid hinge and drain plugs

A

Airborne Lee

Observer
So I have my M416 trailer lid nearly done I am stuggling with how to do the hinge. I can not find a piano hinge with ANY strength to it. I found some on line but they are more expensive than the rest of the lid. I have considered door hinges but I know they will rust quickly. I like the idea of using a gate hinge but I'm not sure how to attached to the tube because of the 1" round tube edge.

I also am struggling with how to replace my drain plug frame/brackets. I have the replacement rubber stoppers but the metal brackets they go in are completely missing leaving just a hole. Any idea's. I would fabricate a new one but this is too complicated for my saw and welder. I just pulled a picture from another thread to show you what I talking about:

08.jpg
 
T

Trailpsycho

Observer
I am going to be doing similar with my M416 trailer. As far as a hinge. You might try some tube and a large bolt, solid rod, brass-drift or even a smaller-diameter thicker wall tube for the pivot. IE, some 1.25" X 0.25 wall, with a 3/4" OD tube, bolt or similar rod.

I know I have seen similar "bullet" style hinges at local metal supply shops cater to alot of fence-work.

I have seen some great examples of tube usage for hings on this site. Have you tried a search on "trailer lid hinges" or similar?

I am not crazy about a piano hinge in this application, personally.

I prefer the tube-within tube, where the inner tube has a wall thickness capable of being tapped so that a bolt and brass washer could act as a retainer on say 1 out of 3 of the hinges, to make the lid removable.

Try the search function, I know there are already a few threads on this topic that I have read before. Good luck to you.

As far as what to do about the plugs, please let me know. I havent seen a great description ont his yet. And I know that mine are nappy.
 
A

Airborne Lee

Observer
I'm almost certain that I'll have to fabricate the drain plug brackets. What I am hoping to find are some parts for another purpose that I can buy and modify to fit the drain plugs. It is the shape of the bottom part that is important. I think having them fabed at a shop will be cost prohibitive.

I agree with you about the hing. I'm stumped wih how to mount the tube on the bucket side though....
 
T

Trailpsycho

Observer
My thoughts on the mounting to the "bucket side" as you refer to it would be to add either some angle, square or rectangular tube to the tub just below the round lip and then, if necessary an additional peice of flat-stock that spans both of these horizontal pieces. The hinge (tube) would be welded to this outer piece of flat-stock. As I mentioned, there are a couple of examples of folks doing this sort of thing. I havent gotten too deep into the planning stages as I am still formulating the "concept"...making it happen is a bit easier once you know what you want or need. Sometimes, things will allign in your favor as well, but not usually.
 
A

Airborne Lee

Observer
What a great site. Thanks for the lead. They clearly have half of what I need. If they dont have the part that actually is attached to the floor I know I can fab it. But I'm hoping they have both the retainer and base it bolts to.

Now if I can just figure out the hinge. I have decided to do some form of barrel I just need to figure out how and where to weld the tube to the be edge of the tub???? It's making my brain hurt...
 
B

bmonday

Adventurer
For my lid hinge, because I wanted to be able to remove the lid, I ran a bit of 1x2 steel tube along the underside of the lip and bolted the hinges to it, through the tub.

That way, I didn't have to mess with the rounded lip.

r_DSCN0414.JPG
 
A

Airborne Lee

Observer
I thought I posted a reply but I dont see it now.

Tell me about your tool rack on the back end of your trailer. Also the little tubs behind the wheel wells. Is that a bumper?
 
gpwpat

gpwpat

Adventurer
I am building a similar lid. but I am using a stainless bolt on hinge. I too want to be able to remove the lid easily. Say I need to take it off because I am hauling something larger. Similar to how AT hinges their lid.

At my local fab shop they have stainless piano hinge that is heavy duty but still I would rather go with 4 bolt on stainless fence type hinges.
 
A

Airborne Lee

Observer
I have used a 1" tube under the lip bolted to the bucket. This will be removable. I welded the first two hinges to the lid and it works. Two more to go. Then I'll tackle the sheetmetal to the frame. Pictures by the weekend.
 
D

d0ubledown

Observer
for my lid, i used 3 heavy duty stainless door hinges with needle bearings. bolted onto angle iron which was welded to the lip. the cdn m101s have a square lip, similar to the rounded lip of 416s. nuts are welded to the inside for ease of removal. works great so far...no issues. my lid w/ thule bars probably weighs in at 100-120lbs.

PICT3454.jpg


PICT3462.jpg


my tailgate has those weld on bullet type greasable hinges.
 
A

Airborne Lee

Observer
wompser said:
hey there,

I had the same problem of owning the "bungs" but not the bracket for them, so... I made my own.

it was pretty simple really, check out a couple pictures on my build page.

and sorry for the cross-posting... I maybe should have done the build on expedition portal vs. mud, but I had to choose one!
Click to expand...

EXCELLENT build thread! Thanks!

As you can see from my picutre My issue is not the bracket that holds the stopper to the bucket. it is the circular plate that welds to the bucket that the stopper sets up against and the retaining bracket screws into. Mine is completely missing. I could fab it but I will have to figure out how to get the round hole in the plate with the correct lip to seat the stopper. I can make the plate square.... but still the hole is my issue. As you can see, the bracket screws into the plate which has an inner and outer lip. I am not sure how to get there?

I'm welcoming idea's.
 
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