Not generally a fan of surge brakes myself except perhaps on boat trailers where they get dunked all the time. Your point about being able to manually actuate the electric brake is spot on; that capability has saved my bacon a couple of times over the years.Fwiw.
I found surgebrakes a maintenance hassle, prone to hunting under many conditions. Plus backing uphill may need you locking them out at the actuator. (I modified my brakes to release pressure when shifted to reverse which fixed that.)
Further. Driving off road on slippery/loose surface it can be handy to manually actuate trailerbrakes independantly of the car.
Save money and work, Keep the lunette. Tall tails of them being noisy or whatever come from Chickenlittles who simply repeat internet blabber or lack loading and simple mechanical task skills
I like your plan and I'm basically following the same plan. Level it out, build the box, and test. If a new axle is needed I can do that later, my theory is it cost me nothing to try it as is and find out if it will work. I'm also on board with keeping the pintle setup, it articulates well and is practically bullet proof. Mine is too noisy now because it's the pintle/ball setup but that will be switched out as soon as I get the new wheels on and see what else may be needed to level it out. Good luck with the build! I look forward to it!@Verkstad @old_CWO
Thank you for the pointers. For now, my plan is to build the trailer in this order
1. Lower the trailer to level it with the tow rig
2. Build the box structure etc. and get it ready
3. Make multiple test runs and improve the structure as needed.
4. Swap out to Dexter axle, if needed, along with electric brakes but retain the lunette-pintle combo and remove the surge brakes
In all this, I intend to retain the lunette-pintle combo. I have read quite a few reports and watched videos about the pros and cons of the two majorly utilized articulating hitches - Max Coupler and Lock-n-roll. At this time, I feel that the old school lunette-pintle combo is much more simple and fool proof. The downsides of noise and rough rides can be worked around. This truck is not going rock climbing with the trailer anyways. It does not need a fancy articulating hitch. I am not a big fan of the ball hitch coupler.
I will be using space adapters to convert from 8x6.5 to 8x170 bolt pattern. Though I’m not a big fan of spacers this will have to do until I have the time and money to do an axle swap.Are those going to fit without adapters? I thought modern Ford 8 lugs were metric pattern.
I was thinking about wheel adapters but ended up replacing the hubs, you may want to check out prices of hubs versus adapters. For me I ended up spending about $100 more but I now have new hubs/bearings and no spacers to worry about.I will be using space adapters to convert from 8x6.5 to 8x170 bolt pattern. Though I’m not a big fan of spacers this will have to do until I have the time and money to do an axle swap.
Thanks! I like to take pictures of the build process. Helpful to me, and others. Most importantly, I use it as a document to go back to at a later time if I am troubleshooting or wanting to redesign. More pictures are here.Trailer looks good with the Ford wheels. I appreciate you posting the photos of the axle and springs, I have never seen an A3 up close before. It does appear a spring under would get it much closer to level with you truck.
Quick thought: could you notch the u-bolt plates to drop in between the trusses? Or maybe make a couple custom ones that would? If so, I would run a tap through the spring center bolt pocket in the top perch. That way you could bolt the plate to the axle so it can't shift around. Depending on your intended load you may consider removing the bottom two leafs from those packs while you're at it. That should lower it a little bit more and soften up the ride.