chiliVANilli
Adventurer
What bender is it?
Lucinda Build
- Thread starter chiliVANilli
- Start date
What bender is it?
chiliVANilli
Adventurer
I took the original locking and mounting brackets off and made a basic frame to attach it to the floor of the van. The frame is also for storage and is a little taller than it might should be, but storage is a priority. The top of the seat is at 17.5" and around 21" when folded flat.
Still have to mount to the floor and figure out what to do about doors, and sides.
chiliVANilli
Adventurer
Anyone used either of these as insulation in their vans? The rolls 1/8" thick and 12"x15' and foil on one side and have adhesive on the back, doesn't say anything about water repelling, but it is made for wrapping duct work. The boards are 4'x8' in several thickness, with foil on the front, styrene in the middle and a plastic barrier on back, which is a vapor barrier, too. Both are available for pretty cheap at Home Depot. I am starting to work on the interior of my van and was looking at options and was most likely going to go with Reflectix, but I saw these today, and they seem like a good cheap option, but maybe not.
chiliVANilli
Adventurer
Looks like it should do the job. Good deal.
When I insulated my ToyBox I used the foil backed foam board. It's the highest R-value per inch that I could afford. The get better R-value jumps the cost UP! I used some canned spray foam for the odd corner here and there. After dealing with the mess I'm going to just jam in fiberglass wads to fill those odd corners in the future.
I'm not totally convinced of the value of the foil backed bubble plastic in the walls of a van. Maybe for covering rounded surfaces that don't lend themselves to sheeting.
Great build!
Tom
I'm not totally convinced of the value of the foil backed bubble plastic in the walls of a van. Maybe for covering rounded surfaces that don't lend themselves to sheeting.
Great build!
Tom
chiliVANilli
Adventurer
Thanks! And I think I am going to use the 4'x8' boards at least for now. I can do the whole van for under $50.
chiliVANilli
Adventurer
One of the seats folded down. For whatever..One of the future plans is to have a rear platform that folds down or something that lines up with the folded down seats for a bed to a go on.
chiliVANilli
Adventurer
Goodies arrived today. I'll get them om on saturday, and see if these and the attached pinion shims will help with my vibration issues.
huntsonora
Explorer
Love this build!
chiliVANilli
Adventurer
I got the rear springs installed over the weekend. The pinion shims on the new springs definitely improved the drive line angles. However, the springs gave me about an inch or more lift. That bit of lift may be working against me a little bit, because the lift is increasing the angle of the drive shaft. There is still some vibration, but definitely less than before, but still some vibration. The springs will settle a little for sure, and I'll be adding weight when I start outfitting the inside. For now I going to put a spacer to drop the transfer case down starting with a 1/2" spacer to see if that will help get things in line. I did find a few sources that do high angle CV joints, but those will require a slip yoke with a flange, that bolts to the CV with a flange on the drive shaft. None of which are cheap and will require another drive shaft to be made($400-700). I'll try the spacer and maybe a 5* shim instead of the 3* shim I am using now before I have to spend crazy money.
chiliVANilli
Adventurer
On the bright side, I got to cruise around in the van and finally put some miles on her, since it was driving better. And the new springs gave it a new stance and smoother ride. It made me realize how dirty she was and that the windows probably haven't been cleaned in about 15 years, so she got a power wash and it took me at least an hour and a half to clean the windows. I swear it ran better, and definitely makes me even more motivated to get to using it. It's time to go camping soon and reap the rewards of hard work, after some insulation and carpet of course.
GordoSmasho
Observer
Id start with the spacers. Your pinion is still to high. The tcase drop probably wont do much at a 1/2". They are also a bandaid fix. A new drive shaft should cost you around 200 shipped for a non cv style. About 300 for a cv shaft plus whatever an sye is for your tcase. Check on ebay. There are many reputable driveline shops that sell there. Find a good one and give them a call for your exact application.
My guess right now is your at the very limit of that slip yoke on the tcase. Your drive shaft needs to be lengthened at the very least. That will also lessen the angles you have going on there as well.
What ever you do, wait till the springs have settled. Load that baby up with some weight and drive it a round for a week. That should do it. Like a couple hundred pounds of cement bags. Thats what i usually use after a fresh leaf install. Works like a charm.
Nice work man. Its looking great.
My guess right now is your at the very limit of that slip yoke on the tcase. Your drive shaft needs to be lengthened at the very least. That will also lessen the angles you have going on there as well.
What ever you do, wait till the springs have settled. Load that baby up with some weight and drive it a round for a week. That should do it. Like a couple hundred pounds of cement bags. Thats what i usually use after a fresh leaf install. Works like a charm.
Nice work man. Its looking great.
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chiliVANilli
Adventurer
I made mounts out of 1/4" plate and 3/8'' nuts to bolt the rear seats to floor of the van and welded them to the floor of the van. The metal in the floor of the van welded like crap and smelled nasty even with a respirator on. The seat should come out easily if I need to remove it, and be safe while in. The mounts are pretty flush so if the seat is out, they won't be in the way. I forgot to take a picture of the seat bolted in, though.
chiliVANilli
Adventurer
I added a 1/2" spacer between the transmission crossmember and frame mounts to drop the t-case down and get a better angle on my drive line and hopefully get rid of the vibrations. I wanted to start with a 1/2" and go bigger if needed. If I need to go more it will require me to do some major modification to to the exhaust. The spacers worked pretty well and greatly reduced the vibrations, but did not cure the problem unfortunately. I really didn't think it was going to fix the problem, but it was worth a try. I guess now I have to buck up spend some $$. I will be ordering a new drive shaft with a CV joint connected to a flange, and a slip yoke with a flange that is essentially slip yoke eliminator. The kit requires drilling and tapping of the output shaft and bolting the slip yoke flange to the output shaft. The kit with shaft is about $400 from drive shaft super store from Phoenix, AZ, please let me know if you have heard anything about them, good or bad.