LR3/4 Rear AC Line relocation

shedlock2000

Observer
Over the weekend I completed the passenger side rear heater line relocation. I am running 285/65/18 which is an almost 33" tire. This was a pretty simple process and I can state the heater works and there is no leaking. Below are the photos and the steps I took to relocate the lines. Big thanks to DiscoNels for finding the old LRRF post from internet archives. I can understand after completing the operation why there is not more information on it, it is really that simple. The only challenge IMO is the heater line is no longer supported by the brackets that are originally intended to support them, the soft heater hose is being held up by zip ties

Items I required to complete the install:

12' of 5/8'' ID heater hose
1/8'' to 7/8'' tubing cutter
Slotted & Philips screw driver
Angle grinder
Primer, paint, clear coat (to cover newly exposed metal)

1. Remove the fender liner and exterior trim, make sure to remove all the screws for the siemens sensor
2. Remove the lower rocker trim
3. You should now be looking at the heater lines and the fin that is the culprit.


4. I then pulled the lines out of the way and used an angle grinder to create a notch in an attempt to get the existing heater lines through. I was unsuccessful (or unwilling) to bend the heater lines enough to get the existing lines to fit. Below is the photo of the notch before and after.



5. After giving up on bending the lines I then went to the "In Line Connections" and disconnected both hard lines from the rubber and patched with the 5/8'' ID hoses between the existing rubber line to the hard lines on the outside portion of the wheel well where there is ample room to run the lines in a protected fashion, the upper wheel arch on the interior of the wheel well will be the limiting factor of travel now which IMO is better than the OEM configuration. Photo of the union and heater diagram.


6. I painted the areas I pounded flat, I also ground off the stud that previous held the clamp for the hard lines running to the left of the fin.

7. I patched the 5/8'' hose to where the existing hard lines run completely vertical in the wheel well. I used the existing crimp clamps from the in line unions and an additional clamp for peace of mind.


8. The biggest flaw in the relocation is that there is no support for the lines, I do not have a welder but in the future I may deal with the heater lines once I have nothing else to do. This is a photo of the finished product, I used zip ties and tucked one of the lines behind the lip that is formed by the fender. Everything is tucked neatly and is out of danger of rubbing.


9. Refill the coolant that leaks out of the lines once you open them up. The instructions per Land Rover are as follows:



The LR4 uses Pentosin coolant, its the pink stuff.

I will have to deal with the driver side seam this weekend but the process is the same. Final food for thought is there is another "in line connection" over the spare tire in the back of the truck, based on spending 4.5 hours under the truck (I know, I work slow) it seems like you can safely run the soft line directly back to the second "in line connection" and avoid the issue of supporting the lines in the wheel well or the lack thereof.
These are probably really helpful photos, but Photobucket's current maximum fail is not helping here. Can you post them to this forum directly, so we have a good resource for them? I'd love some photographic assistance, but the original post is gone and Photobucket seems to be withholding photos these days!
 

DiscoDavis

Explorer
These are probably really helpful photos, but Photobucket's current maximum fail is not helping here. Can you post them to this forum directly, so we have a good resource for them? I'd love some photographic assistance, but the original post is gone and Photobucket seems to be withholding photos these days!
Yeah on that note, everyone should use flickr or something equivalent. Photobucket is crap.
 

mbwesner

Adventurer
Yeah on that note, everyone should use flickr or something equivalent. Photobucket is crap.
Smugmug has been my new choice. It is cheap, but fast, high quality and easy to upload to directly from other services (like google photos, from my phone).

******* photobucket
 

rlynch356

Defyota
does anyone know what the fittings are ont he hard lines at the break points? and just how much hose do we need 12" seems pretty short? I was thinking of having a set of braided hoses made up locally to completely reroute the lines out of the well wells.. my liners are taking a beating..
 

shedlock2000

Observer
I’m not actually clear (without photos) where the lines can be moved too. Do they not rub on the liner itself?

Anyone have any photos?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

zelatore

Explorer
Not 12", 12'. More specifically a pair of 6'.
And that's an approximate. You really want to get under there and measure it out yourself if you are planning to make custom braided hoses.
As for the fittings, think 'none'. It's just a piece of pipe with hose pushed over it. No fittings.

It's been several years since I messed with this so take my memories with a grain of salt but if you take a look at your truck it's all very straight forward. You can see the ends of the stock aluminum lines without disassembly, but you will want to pop out the wheel well liner to get an accurate measurement for custom hoses.
 

rlynch356

Defyota
thanks - i was hoping for screw type fittings but i guess i'll see what i get.. to get to them i have to drop the PR slider, so a bit more involved.
 

bezzita

New member
Anybody have the instruction with the pictures? It seems all the not there anymore.

EDIT: the pictures loaded up on my phone.., sure will do this soon 👍
 
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