How will you attach the pilaster shelf strips to the extrusion?I've been conceptualizing an 80/20 aluminum extrusion chuck box for some time now trying to figure out how to make it all work. I've made and used home made wooden boxes, pelican cases of various sizes, plano 56qt bins, and lately wolfpack boxes. I've never been truly happy with any of them and that was mainly because I typically operate off the back of my truck and every one of these required moving around, pulling lids off, and ended up a cavity of gear when things got scrambled. I've been toying with dividers for the wolfpack box lately but have kept this 80/20 project going in the background hoping it would be the final solution (if there ever is one). My wife hates the wolfpack boxes the most so convenience and access is key.
This is where I'm at now and am starting to put some pieces together over the past few days. I use this stuff at work a lot so I'm familiar with it and all the various connectors. I also have the ability to laser cut the walls/shelves for an exact fit. I still have to sort out wall/shelf material and a door latch but this has most of the details pinned down. I've decided to go with a removable swing door that's lined on the inside with sheet loop material so I can velcro pouches to it storing common kitchen items. Most of the dimensions of the box are driven from the width of the stove or the accumulated height of what we typically carry. I'm trying to give myself enough flexibility that if we want to rearrange items we can. Easy to clean, robust, and hold everything in one place are all things I'm going for. The most this typically moves is from the garage to the back of the truck and back again.
I'm looking at making the walls out of either 1/4" ply with a gasket, 1/4" coroplast (corrugated plastic sheet), ABS sheet, or ???. The shelves are supported by pilaster shelf strips with clips (screwed to the shelves) and are tucked into the corners of the main box. I will also work on some slot brackets on the sides so legs can be slipped in to make it freestanding. Thinking of using footman loops so they can double as tie downs.
Overkill? Probably, but given the price of some other kitchen kits out there this will be well under the cost of those and custom fit to my gear. I don't really see using 80/20 as a waste of space when compared to the walls of a pelican or wolfpack box as they are easily 1", although I'm sure it could be made thinner and lighter with just 1/4" ply. To each their own, do what makes you happy, suits your purpose, yada, yada....
Outside dimensions are 24.5" wide, 15" deep, and 22" tall.
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how long are the #6 screws?The shelf strips are attached with #6 flat head screws to the inside of the side walls and not to the extrusion.
As for a latch, I've looked at everything from Southco and 80/20 but haven't decided exactly what I want to use just yet.
Here's where I'm at using laser cut cardboard as prototype fill panels.
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The panel I'm using is 1/4" thick and the pilaster shelf strips are ~3/16" but an 82* countersunk head doesn't fit in them as deep as it should so I ended up purchasing 1/2" philips flat head 18-8 stainless steel undercut head in a #6-32 thread. I'm going to tap the side walls to mount them. If you were using a wood product you could use a #6 x 1/2" flat head wood screw but it would have a point sticking through the outside of the panel that you would need to grind down.how long are the #6 screws?
Assuming you were asking me....My concern with my next chuck box is overall weight of the box. Is yours lightweight?