Jeep Cherokee Widetrack Revival - with questions for the experts - Stoffregen Motorsports

Thanks guys.

I couldn't tell from any pics I found online, if the sway bar brackets bolted directly to the frame or if there was a standoff bracket. Seems like the c-channel bracket answers my question there.

As for the lower link bracket, I might just weld one onto the axle housing. I could fab something up that looks stock-ish. Think GM truck lower rear shock mount. Double shear, triangulated for stability. Then I won't have to add yet another plate to the u-bolt mix.

My Cherokee does have a 3" lift, so I could simply lengthen the links in the TGW kit. I like the idea of a stiff front bar. Hopefully it doesn't affect snow driving too much. This Cherokee's reason for being is for winter fun. That's how I justified it to the family. Like I need another truck to keep registered and insured...
 
Oh yeah, the spring plates - I assumed they were at least cast steel (not iron), but I'm not shocked to hear that you broke one.

In a daily driver application it won't matter much, but I have seen those lower link mounts fail under hard use or getting snagged on an obstacle. That's one of the reasons why it won't be easy to find one in the junkyard and it may save a lot of time buying the kit from TGW and fabricating your own lower link plate since you have the skills to do so.

I once ripped a u-bolt through one of the cast spring plates without even noticing the Jeep was hung up on something. Some of those cast pieces are not exactly high quality or robust so keep that in mind.

You are also correct that in the 70s none of the FSJs had rear sway bars. The rear spring mounts for the rear axle changed in sometime in 75/76. In 1980 the front axle switched from passenger diff to driver's side differential and the slightly offset rear dana 44 was swapped for the AMC 20 rear end with a centered diff for the NP variant transfer cases after discontinuing the Quadra-trac.
 

SkiWill

Well-known member
Thanks guys.

I couldn't tell from any pics I found online, if the sway bar brackets bolted directly to the frame or if there was a standoff bracket. Seems like the c-channel bracket answers my question there.

As for the lower link bracket, I might just weld one onto the axle housing. I could fab something up that looks stock-ish. Think GM truck lower rear shock mount. Double shear, triangulated for stability. Then I won't have to add yet another plate to the u-bolt mix.

My Cherokee does have a 3" lift, so I could simply lengthen the links in the TGW kit. I like the idea of a stiff front bar. Hopefully it doesn't affect snow driving too much. This Cherokee's reason for being is for winter fun. That's how I justified it to the family. Like I need another truck to keep registered and insured...

Don't tell my wife, but I still have the original parts catalog for FSJs of the era. Here are the various breakdowns of how the sway bar was mounted during that era including part numbers for a laugh. Let me know if you need anything else specific.

I will say that my '77 Chief was one of the best snow cars I've had, so you're totally justified in having it in the fleet.

IMG_3484.jpegIMG_3485.jpeg
 
Cool SkiWill!
The second page top illustration is the proper one for the 1976-79 Wagoneer & Cherokee.

10-200-3 is the part I made out of C channel for the swaybar to mount on.
If you guys need anymore pictures let me know and I can go out and take a few??
 
Other work on the Cherokee is getting completed, I'm happy to say, though I wish I didn't have a day job, so I could focus on getting this ready for winter.

The front tie rod ends showed up, all except the inner right, which is on back order with no ETA. In an effort to not let that stall my progress, I was able to re-use the one I had, which was in surprisingly good shape. I did blast and paint it, along with the new ones, so they look great and won't rust. The outer left TRE was supplied with the wrong boot, but I was able to clean up and re-use the anti-twist bushing and washer set of the original TRE. Once it was all installed, I set the toe to 3/16 toe-in and took it for a long test drive. With the new u-joints in the rear shaft, the new steering, repaired and adjusted tailgate bumpers, the only rattles left in the vehicle are from lack of window channel felt. So that's good news. The droning vibration in the rear is now gone too, so that must have been the rear u-joints. I thought it might have been the slightly bent right rear axle shaft, but nope, the vibration is gone.

Lastly, I was able to secure insurance from Grundy, with an agreed value of $35k and full coverage, all for the measly sum of $175 per year. Before I can legally drive it, I need to take a trip to DMV and take it off non-op, and also get plates, as it has none. Hopefully by this time next week, it will be legit. Can't wait.
 
Back to the mirrors. I had an idea the other day and started looking into it this morning.

Using the billet mirror mounts from BJ's, I could mount some smaller rectangular or square motorcycle mirrors. The large ones BJ's pictures would be heavy for the small two-bolt mounting, and I feel they are a bit too modern for the look, but a pair of these mounted on the billet pedestals would look cool, and be tall enough to be able to see out of. What do you guys think?

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Ok, cool. I didn't know who made them. He has a lot of other neat items. I wonder if he makes the visor clip in the center.

I suppose I could make the mirror mounts myself, a little less bulky to hold the smaller motorcycle mirrors.
 
Another question - Heater Control Valve?

I was under the impression that the heater core was plumbed directly to the motor (in and out) without a valve, but searching for a replacement core, I found a listing for a valve. Am I wrong in thinking there is no factory heater valve on a 360 V8 equipped SJ?

On a side note, I had though about installing a 4-way, recirculating type heater valve to keep the core cool when not in use. I'd have to figure out a way to actuate it, maybe via a micro switch operated VSV.

As far as the core goes, the only replacement core I can find shows dimensions up to 3/4" smaller in all directions. Were there two different core options?

So yeah, heater valve stock? I don't think so, but I'd like to hear from the experts.
 

SkiWill

Well-known member
Unfortunately I don't have a lot of time to delve into this further, but I do see multiple part numbers for heater cores. I also see a part number for a heater valve but haven't found it in the diagram yet.

I do not remember a valve on my '77 or '78 Cherokees. Someone did install a valve on a family member's '76 in a vain attempt to keep it a reasonable temperature in the car w/o a/c during the summer so that coolant wasn't circulating through the core. Maybe over the weekend I'll have time to scan and upload the pages for you out of the parts book.
 

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