Gnarvan AWD Express build.

TeleSteve

Adventurer
The van has been working great and my wife and I used it a lot this last winter. I spent over 60 nights in it traveling for skiing and I have put over 15k miles traveling in it. During February and early March I lived out of it for a month, 2 weeks with my wife. This trip took us through seven states, British Columbia and Alberta. We hit twelve ski resorts, spent several days backcountry skiing, and got some heli skiing in BC. The best part was between the Powder Alliance and Mountain Collective passes I only paid for one $25 industry ticket at Whitefish.
f4e936972ca6f08cfcb65f224f9215a5.jpg

We really had no agenda except for hitting Grand Targhee so I could compete at the Telemark Big Mountain Freeride Comp. We originally set out to hit some Northwest resorts, but by the time we got to Oregon most of them were getting rained on, so we headed inland through Idaho up to interior BC. We then went east to Lake Louise and then back down through Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, and Utah. My wife flew home from SLC and I went back up to Montana and spent a week around the Bozeman area before heading down to Grand Targhee for the comp. Then I spent a few days in Tahoe before heading back home. Pretty much we just went where the forecasts looked the best.
There was several nights below zero and I think the coldest was around -15F. The heater and insulation kept us nice and warm and I was able to keep the water system filled the entire time.

3384be3a91af04686e05f2254ed722cf.jpg

b72ad37073046c8004d57bf9bb8ef095.jpg

7db44122a863793100c541a8f84358f9.jpg

f04c7433c030c3719bb68c77cf5ea839.jpg

Gas prices were great compared to Calif. especially around Idaho
c74e37c6acc787f902f3120c600635e0.jpg






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

TeleSteve

Adventurer
There was a few problems along the way. I was having some issues with the webasto gasoline heater. It would work for a while but it build up a bunch of carbon and eventually fail to ignite. I have made the altitude adjustments, but it still seems to plug up after about 4 weeks use. I first had issues with it in Tahoe in December so I cleaned it out and leaned it some more for higher altitudes. This lasted until early March towards the end of my long trip, fortunately it was warm enough to get by with out it until I got home. I cleaned it out again and leaned it out some more and it seems to be working since then. I think it tends to plug up when I set the thermostat to really low temps while I am away from the van. At these low temps it runs for such short intervals that it never really gets hot enough to run clean. If I only set it at higher temps it runs for longer periods of time and stays clean
Here is what the inside looks like before cleaning it out.
7f23d3a5494714012179d040f647a37f.jpg

c1a0fb473a5e794f273dd0e7dc0d2108.jpg

05721cf6a87cb7608ab79308bba3e0a7.jpg

40578a6af8669812414f297d63268092.jpg




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

TeleSteve

Adventurer
The other issue I had and I still can't explain. A few times through the winter the van would flash a service engine light and go into reduced power mode. It would list 20 different codes that really had no correlation. I have the Bullydog tuner so I could read the codes and clear them and it would work fine again. This happened maybe 3-4 times over a month. Then while heading south to Jackson Hole it started happening more and more frequently. I went over every thing and couldn't find anything that would cause it. With the tuner I could clear it pretty quickly and keep moving so we setup an appointment at the Chevy dealer in JH but couldn't get in until the next day. They were nice enough to let us camp in there parking lot for the night. The next day we left it with them and took the shuttle to ski at JH. When we got back they couldn't get it to do it again and it hasn't happened again over several thousand miles and 5 months.
My best guess is it had a bad ground or connection somewhere, maybe some water where it shouldn't be, but nothing I could find. I even removed the tuner and restored the factory tune with no change. Maybe the dealer did something to fix it and didn't tell me, they didn't charge me anything.
77aa9c4983d26eea51c6144e60461660.jpg



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

TeleSteve

Adventurer
I am looking forward to another great winter traveling in the van and have several additions I hope to get done this fall. I plan to build a full roof rack and install the 200 watt solar system I picked up. I have an exterior ladder to put on and I would like to finish the sink cabinet and the last trim panel inside. I purchased a Hellwig rear sway bar that needs to go in and I would like to add a transmission cooler.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Slapmackie

Observer
DUDE!!!! I'm totally gonna geek out on this thread for a while...I just bought an AWD 07 with 39k miles on it, I'm ready to dive in and get this pro-ject going! Thanks for the inspiration, hope to catch you around the way some day...Cheers
 

North

Observer
While I was at it I added the radio switch you see next to it. This is a Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) rocker switch. It switches the radio between startng battery and house battery. In the down position the constant and key on power are both connected to the radio as normal, when it is flipped up they are both switched over to a circuit off the house battery. This allows the radio to be used while parked with out using the starting battery or needing a key in the ignition.

When the switch is toggled between the positions, doesn't the memory (clock, settings, etc.) reset? I assume the memory is tied to the constant power. I'd like to do the same, but don't want the stereo to reset it's memory every time I switch to a different source.
 

TeleSteve

Adventurer
When the switch is toggled between the positions, doesn't the memory (clock, settings, etc.) reset? I assume the memory is tied to the constant power. I'd like to do the same, but don't want the stereo to reset it's memory every time I switch to a different source.
No the memory stays, it takes a several seconds for memory loss the very brief time it takes to flip the switch isn't an issue.
 

boardrider247

Weekend warrior anarchist
I got the heat exchanger all plumbed up with silicone heater hose so the hot water is working. I used an ACDelco 15-5533 Heater bypass valve tapped into the heater hoses to control the coolant flow through the heat exchanger.
1047c4304a7e241647d2433ddd989476.jpg


This valve is controlled by a switch on the dash.
6b4410543281d7d79b4bd16c23f5d8fd.jpg

Is the bypass valve completely electric actuation? Or is it electric over vacuum?

Currently my exchanger runs wide open all of the time and I'm thinking I should add some sort of valving to close it off when not in use.
 

TeleSteve

Adventurer
Is the bypass valve completely electric actuation? Or is it electric over vacuum?

Currently my exchanger runs wide open all of the time and I'm thinking I should add some sort of valving to close it off when not in use.
Electric over vacuum, I am using this Dorman vacuum actuator
I did find some electric bypass valves, but they were more expensive than going electric over vacuum. Plus these parts are available at most auto parts stores.
All the parts I used are listed back in post #50.
 

Slapmackie

Observer
Haven't been back here to update this for a bit. I finished a ton of electrical work adding stereo, backup camera, seat heaters, trailer wiring, trailer brake controller, and fog lights. Cut down passenger seat base and added seat swivel. Frenched fog lights into the factory chrome bumper and pie cut out the ends near the front tires. Painted the bumpers and grill black. I just got back from having wheels and tires installed, I went with 275/70-R18 BFG AT KO2s (33.2" x 10.9") on 18x9 wheels. I have a lot more pictures and details on the Sportsmobile forum build thread.
View attachment 296522
View attachment 296524
View attachment 296525
View attachment 296526
View attachment 296527
View attachment 296528
View attachment 296529
View attachment 296530

You mind walking me through on how you modified your swivel seat base? I just installed mine and it's pretty awkward, sits too high and I can only get the door shut with the seat more than 10 degrees past 180....
 

TeleSteve

Adventurer
The seat base mod was pretty straight forward. I cut out a 1-5/8" strip out of the middle horizontally and then welded it back together. I used a 4-1/2" cut off wheel in a grinder to cut it. I was able to bend the frame a little bit to make the tapers match up when shortened. After welding I used a flap disc to clean up the visible welds on the outside. Then paint and install.
FullSizeRender(6).jpg
FullSizeRender(4).jpg
FullSizeRender(1).jpg
FullSizeRender(2).jpg
FullSizeRender(5).jpg
FullSizeRender(3).jpg
FullSizeRender(7).jpg
FullSizeRender(9).jpg
FullSizeRender(8).jpg
 
Last edited:

TeleSteve

Adventurer
I had to spend a few days over in Bishop, CA to recert my WFR (wilderness first responder). Since I had to be there in classes for three days I figured we would make a van trip out of it. My wife spent the days I was in class roaming about the area around Bishop and went up to make some turns at Mammoth. The conditions were pretty thin firm snow. We had planned to do some more skiing after my classes were done but the conditions were not inviting.
So instead we went up to the White Mountains and stayed for a couple days and checked out the ancient bristlecone pines. We enjoyed the high desert and views of the Sierra crest from the side we don't see from our home on the west side.
ae673ea9224c2b7aca9c16fe978c2419.jpg

Since a trip was planned I was motivated to get some more projects completed on the van. Funny how that works. So I finished up the last ceiling trim panel over the counter. I made it a small shelf and installed the inverter control panel and solar charge controller display on each end. I am hoping to get the roof rack built so the panels can go on soon.
b096e2474cf086ac48988148f806c48b.jpg


I also got most of the door galley sink cabinet done, I didn't have enough time or parts to get the door on, but the cabinet is installed and the sink is mostly plumbed. I need a P-trap and have to run the drain back through the door and under the van. To make the cabinet fit tight I ended up cutting the middle out of the factory door panel I picked up. I rebuilt the middle section out of birch plywood and covered it with grey vinyl. This allowed me to put the cabinet closer to the door and bolt directly to the sheet metal. The plastic door panel sat a few inches off the door.
1599b46f43c41f2649bf3590adea61db.jpg

ee3cecdcdc03268b0139deaa98bb9f3a.jpg

36ee9cefdf77ebb4009339490e63043f.jpg

The 3/8" water supply passes from the body to the door using two 1/2" wire strain reliefs and is wrapped in split loom. The water comes from the shower mixer valve so it can be mixed hot and cold. This was to minimize the number of tubes passing out to the door. The faucet is a Watts drinking water faucet used on filtered water systems. The cabinet and counters are the same Alder wood and laminate as the rest of the interior. The door, when I get to it, will match the others with Alder rails and styles wrapping black King Starboard. It will hinge down to create a outside counter for using a single burner stove. I will likely laminate the back of the door with the same laminate as the counters.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
185,835
Messages
2,878,712
Members
225,393
Latest member
jgrillz94
Top