Flyingwil's Taco is growing up!

flyingwil

Supporting Sponsor - Sierra Expeditions
Well I have the latch kind of figured out, now it is just time to figure out where I can get them locally. I am thinking of using one of these two:
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What do you guys think? Anyone know where I can get one? I have looked at ACE, Lowe's, and Home Depot to no avail! :(
 

DaktariEd

2005, 2006 Tech Course Champion: Expedition Trophy
Mario uses something like that on his trailers...or has a supplier.
Even though not local it may still be better than driving around.
Send him a PM ("el coyote" I think).
HTH...
Ed
 

FlyingWen

Explorer
flyingwil said:
I am upgrading it to version 1.1 and it will have a "TWIST." My lovely wife came up with a great idea and I am runing with it.
I don't get many ideas, but when I do WHOO HOOO! That is how I earn my keep while I am recovering from surgery. :wings:
 

RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
Check here for latches (and other things)

www.mcmastercarr.com

Here is a link to the latches (some of these things are MONSTER big):
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=2448

Here is a link to the pins that slee uses on his carrier:
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=3136

They have one of the easiest to use biggest "Candy Store" website i have found!

"WARNING" take a look at the description near the price, some of the smaller stuff comes in boxes of 10 or so and the price is PER UNIT!

Enjoy!
 
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FlyingWen

Explorer
I just like checking here to see what all Mods Wil is planning for the Taco.

He tells me some, but I learn so much more from camping trip and his Mod-O-meter.

I really do want the Demello rear tire bumper that Scott and Mark have, and after the recent Baja trip, I am thinking a Winch will be in order. It is, after all, for "safety". Right honey?

I am not yet sold on the snorkle, but do agree they look cool! :cool:
 

flyingwil

Supporting Sponsor - Sierra Expeditions
Well for my Birthday FlyingWen was nice enough to get me a Lotek Gauge Pod, and a Cyberdyne battery, and temp gauge (will be used for the fridge)! I have the gauges, just awaiting the brown (maybe Yellow) truck to come deliver the gauge pod.

I am a bit concerned about the gauge pod as I have read some stories on TTORA of it not fitting correctly and hopefully I will get a good one!

Next up is a dual battery set up... I have everything except for the isolator combiner... on to more research... any suggestions?
 

Mlachica

TheRAMadaINN on Instagram
flyingwil said:
Next up is a dual battery set up... I have everything except for the isolator combiner... on to more research... any suggestions?

Get the mobi-arc unit. Here's my write up...(which I think you read already)

Key Components...
main battery - odyssey 1200mjt
aux battery - odyssey 1700mjt (battery specs)
mobi-arc isolator (more info here, and tech specs here)
Rockford Fosgate 1/0 cable for the (+) and 2/0 for the (-)
I only used 2/0 because we had some left overs at work
Rockford Fostgate positive battery post lugs

I'll try and keep this as organized as possible so forgive me if I ramble...

My reasons for choosing the 'perfect switch' is efficiency, reliability, and the theory behind the isolator works for my application.

Efficiency/Reliability


There are a couple ways of isolating batteries...
1. Solenoid - You can find these in your winch. Essentially they are contacts that open and close, isolating and combining your batteries, respectively. Solenoids are rated for interrupting large amounts of current that's why they are found on your winch and with battery systems. When contacts open and break excessive amounts of current a layer of oxidation builds on the current carrying contacts. This layer of oxidation creates resistance. Resistance reduces efficiency. In turn making it harder for your alternator to fully charge your batteries. Also say when you combine your batteries to winch, the battery that has to power the winch through the solenoid will waste power because of the solenoid. And I hear occassional stories of solenoid failure with winches. Maybe because it's not only electrical but mechanical as well.

2. Diodes - such as the surepower isolator. Diodes by nature waste power (watts). Typical diode isolators drop the voltage by 0.7 volts, I know it doesn't sound like much but at high currents the losses add up. Power (watts) = I (current) x E (voltage) So let's say you're winching and the winch is drawing 200 amps.
140 watts = 200 amps x 0.7 volts. What this means is at a loss of .7 volts, and 200 amps of current flowing you're wasting (losing) 140 watts. This loss of electrical energy becomes energy in the form of heat. That's why the diode type isolators are larger and have heat fins. As heat rises, the resistance rises, and excessive heat can cause premature failure.

3. MOSFETs - this is what mobi-arc uses. The electrical theory is a little too deep for me but I've actually tested my isolator to see if what they advertise is true. I didn't write down the numbers but what I did was hooked up the winch to draw current from both batteries (not how I would typically use it, I'll explain later). With a clamp on DC ammeter I measured how much current was flowing through the isolator. I think about 120 amps were going through the isolator. I then measured what the voltage was before and after the isolator and it was a difference of about .04 volts. So with the same P = IE equation that equals 120 amps x .04 volts = 4.8 watts.

Now I know it's not a whole lot of power, I think I'm just critical about it because electricity is what I deal with every day. But think about this - would 140 watts of heat or 4.8 watts of heat be easier to dissapate? Hence the reason why the perfect switch is smaller and doesn't need heat sinks. Another benefit of this type of isolator is that it's solid state, there are no moving parts = less things to break.


How it works...
I have the Single Rectifier Unit, (think direction or current flow)which isolates the main battery from the aux battery. It does NOT isolate the aux battery from the main battery.

Another way of saying this is the aux battery can and is feeding the main battery as well as everything connected to the main battery. In contrary the main battery cannot feed the aux battery.

Essentially what this means is, anything fed from your aux battery will only take power from your aux battery, your main battery will be untouched. Now anything fed from your main battery will be fed from your main battery and your aux battery via the isolator.

Now because it is designed this way, the main battery will never have a lesser charge than the aux battery. Why? Because the isolator allows the current to flow from the aux battery to the main battery, but not in the opposite direction. So it's like the aux battery is always jump starting the main battery. That's why the main battery will always have a greater charge than the aux, so it's a guarantee that I will be able to start my truck.


So here's the jist of what's connected to my aux battery..
1 fridge
multiple 12v outlets
3 lightforce lights
4 rock lights
2m
cb
air compressor
winch


All of these accessories take power from the aux battery and the aux battery only. These are the accessories that have a greater chance of draining a battery, either over long periods (fridge camping) or short one's (extensive winching).



Why don't I combine my batteries for winching?
I haven't done too much winching but after talking to many many people, one good battery is enough. I don't frequent anything too extreme and even if I did, I could always use jumper cables to combine the batteries. And if I did an extreme winch pull and killed a battery, it would be my aux battery and not my starting (main) battery.

If I did use a system that would combine the batteries and did a crazy winch pull that killed both batteries - then what? Drive around for an hour to make sure your batteries are somewhat charged. Chances are slim but I don't want to take that risk.


Now let's say you use your radio while camping a lot (which would be connected to your main battery), there's always the possiblity of killing your main battery and your aux battery. I typically don't use my radio or anything wired from the main battery, while at camp. If you do use a lot of factory wired accessories when the truck is off then this may not be the choice for you... If I do choose to listen to xm at camp I'm not afraid to because the current draw is so minimal and slow that I can catch the battery before it's too late with a voltmeter.

Whew, that was long winded. Clear as mud? I hope I helped people more than I confused people :(
 

flyingwil

Supporting Sponsor - Sierra Expeditions
Lo-Tek Gauge Pod and Cyberdyne Guages

FlyingWen got me this wonderful set up for my birthday. I didn't even ask for it, she just thought it was ************** and got me it. How cool is that!?

Well the install was pretty basic, remove the old A Pillar cover and replace with the Lo-Tek. I had to drill 2 hole in the A-pillar and total install was around 2 hours.

Here you can see the two, OEM and Lo-Tek side by side:
IMG_1286.jpg

IMG_1285.jpg


The Lo-Tek required slight sanding for the Cyberdyne Gauges to fit.
I ended up with a Voltmeter and an Ambient Temp gauge (for the fridge).

I took Duct Tape to the rear to prevent rattles on washboards as shown:
IMG_1288.jpg



Final install Pics:
IMG_1293.jpg

IMG_1297.jpg

IMG_1294.jpg


I am toying with the idea of adding more temperature senders for the temp gauge.
  1. Engel Fridge/Freezer
  2. TwoZone Unit
  3. Ambient Air

I could then use a 3-Way selecting switch to switch between the three. That be kind of cool huh?
 

DaktariEd

2005, 2006 Tech Course Champion: Expedition Trophy
Excellent gift! Great woman there....bet she'll want to drive it more often now, too... ;)
 

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