Flyingwil's Taco is growing up!

Scott Brady

Founder
Wil,

I am running the exact panels you have pictured, with the exception that mine are 12"x72" each. They are made by Iowa Thin Film for Brunton.

I have had excellent success with mine. 40watts of power rolled up the size of a newspaper.
 

flyingwil

Supporting Sponsor - Sierra Expeditions
Fridge/Freezer Ordered!

Ok, I have ordered the Engel 45 Fridge/Freezer with a transit bag...



I opted for the 45 since a TwoZone and TZ transit bag will be added to the mix. I was worried about a nasty rumor I read on the OZ Forums that the TwoZone voids the warranty from Engel, however, it does not and in fact TwoZone and Engel do trade shows together. If any one else is interested in me picking them up a TwoZone let me know (via PM), they'll be crossing the pond soon!



Now the Question:
I will be removing my rear seat to install the Engel, but need to know which mounting solution is best suited for me. I am thinking the Engel Slide (that wil slide Length ways, so the Fridge/Freezer could be slid in a fashion similar to BajaTaco's (pimping design BTW). Or my other option is the Transit Slide-lok mounting solution.

--------------OR--------------

What do you think is best?

Everything is going to be removable, and be able to transform back to the "stock" way. For example: I want to make it so that it can quickly transform back to a 4 person seating. I have plans for all quick connects, and disconects and proper seat bolt disconnects in the works!

Any advice?
 
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shawkins

Adventurer
What is the "Two-Zone" thing? Does it have something to do with the 2 fridges mounted on top of each other? Sorry for my NooBness...:jumping:
 

Nullifier

Expedition Leader
basically it is an add on compartment to your fridge freezer. It is hinged so you can lift the twozone up and access the engel. By placing the engel on freeze you end up with a freezer in the engel and it cools the two zone down to fridge temps.

It does mean that you fridge will be working overtime till temps get regulated, however with a quality fridge this should not be an issue.
 

shawkins

Adventurer
Nullifier said:
basically it is an add on compartment to your fridge freezer. It is hinged so you can lift the twozone up and access the engel. By placing the engel on freeze you end up with a freezer in the engel and it cools the two zone down to fridge temps.

It does mean that you fridge will be working overtime till temps get regulated, however with a quality fridge this should not be an issue.
Ah, I get it now.

Thanks!
 

datrupr

Expedition Leader
shawkins said:
Sorry for my NooBness...:jumping:

Shawkins, welcome to the Portal! You never need to apologize for n00bness, that is how we all learn. There is a massive wealth of knowledge here and we all like to share information with others. The only way we learn is to ask questions. Again, welcome, and post up some pics of you 98 runner. What a great platform!
 

Desertdude

Expedition Leader
Wil - First - congratulations on this fine purchase - you will not ever be disappointed in the unit :)

(This is for an xtracab) I located my Engel behind the pass seat ( so I could still recline if I was solo) I did not mine loosing the mini storage space under the floor - and the slide-lok was less $$ - I used the Slide-lok and mounted it on a piece of 3/4 ply and screwed it down to the floor where the mini back seats fold down to it over hangs onto the fold out cup holders - I can remove it at anytime and bring the back area to stock with four screws.

Foot note: if you store most of your food in Zip lock bags your fridge will stay cleaner longer - making the removal for cleaning less. This will also help you to layer food depending on when you need it - I was able to keep food frozen at the bottom and kept the fridge at 32 degrees keeping the food on top at appox 45 degrees -

Last tip - get a temp gauge so you can monitor it - I have the simple Engel one you drop the one end in - I mounted it near the back window so I can see it in the mirror.

Other notes - when wheeling hard or washboard roads the fridge does have a small amount of movement due to heavy vibrations - this appears due to how the slide lock - locks the fridge in place and how tall the fridge is ( leverage)

I am ordering another Engel for the 80 series with the Engel slide and will be able to see if that mounting system is more solid
 

flyingwil

Supporting Sponsor - Sierra Expeditions
Desertdude said:
Wil - First - congratulations on this fine purchase - you will not ever be disappointed in the unit :)

(This is for an xtracab) I located my Engel behind the pass seat ( so I could still recline if I was solo) I did not mine loosing the mini storage space under the floor - and the slide-lok was less $$ - I used the Slide-lok and mounted it on a piece of 3/4 ply and screwed it down to the floor where the mini back seats fold down to it over hangs onto the fold out cup holders - I can remove it at anytime and bring the back area to stock with four screws.

Foot note: if you store most of your food in Zip lock bags your fridge will stay cleaner longer - making the removal for cleaning less. This will also help you to layer food depending on when you need it - I was able to keep food frozen at the bottom and kept the fridge at 32 degrees keeping the food on top at appox 45 degrees -

Last tip - get a temp gauge so you can monitor it - I have the simple Engel one you drop the one end in - I mounted it near the back window so I can see it in the mirror.

Other notes - when wheeling hard or washboard roads the fridge does have a small amount of movement due to heavy vibrations - this appears due to how the slide lock - locks the fridge in place and how tall the fridge is ( leverage)

I am ordering another Engel for the 80 series with the Engel slide and will be able to see if that mounting system is more solid
Thanks for the input! I am thinking the slide might be a nice feature, and the ability to slide the unit could come in handy, as mentioned for reclining purposes. I am thinking of mounting in in the center of the cab for (C.G) and the slide could aid in removal. I also have some tranist wheels coming along with the unit! Should be a nifty add on when needed!
 

Suty

Adventurer
Wil, Congrads, It would appear I am falling further behind you, DD and Scott. Damn, I need to get on the stick. I'll be interested on how you finally set it in there.. Pals, Suty
 

flyingwil

Supporting Sponsor - Sierra Expeditions
Suty said:
Wil, Congrads, It would appear I am falling further behind you, DD and Scott. Damn, I need to get on the stick. I'll be interested on how you finally set it in there.. Pals, Suty
Thanks Ken! My issue is that I am Poor! :hehe:

My Taco is also my daily driver, so most of my Mod's are reversable or easily converted back to near stock. The planning is fun and the waiting time is killing me.
 

flyingwil

Supporting Sponsor - Sierra Expeditions
-- Cheap Mod -- Dif Breather Extension

Prior to the ExPo Rally in Nov I did the dif breather mod, following these two write ups:
WATTORA's Write-UP
4x4 Wire's Write-Up

The following is a summary of the two and what I did... most pictures are off of the WATTORA Write up. The have a note stating that this does work on the 3rd gen Taco's too!

Parts/Materials Needed:
  • 1 Toyota part number 90404-51026 Listed as a "Union"
  • 8 feet of 1/4" rubber fuel line
  • 2 small hose clamps
  • A few nylon wire (zip) ties

Tools Needed:
  • Box/Open wrenches, 10mm and 14mm
  • Screwdrivers
  • Wire Cutters
  • 1 cup boiling water

Estimated Time: < 1 Hour

Procedure:

Here's a shot of all the parts, with the exception of the hose.

Image From WATTORA
And the stock breather on the differential housing.

Image From WATTORA

Image From WATTORA

Use a 14mm wrench to remove the stock breather. Use a rag to clean around the breather well before you remove it completely.

Image From WATTORA

Use a 10mm wrench to thread the 90404-51026 Union into the differential housing. It will tighten down until about one thread is exposed.

Image From WATTORA

Dip one end of your rubber hose in a cup of boiling water for 30 seconds, then insert the stock breather threads into the hose. You want to get all of the thread into the tubing. This will allow your diff to continue to breath as it would in a stock configuration and will cut down on the chances of dust or moisture getting sucked in. Secure the breather with one of the hose clamps. Some folks use VW type fuel filters on the ends of their breathers.

Image From WATTORA

There are a variety of places you can vent to. Some choose to run a hose all the way up to the engine compartment, I followed the electric locker cable/brake lines up by the fuel filler neck. This view is from the perspective of the left, rear tire, looking up into the bed rail. The stock breather end of the hose was secured with wire-ties so that it was above the fuel neck. The hose was routed along the fuel filler neck, over the frame and along the locker cable.

Image From WATTORA

In this case I removed my fuel cover and drilled a 1/4" hole in the cover and chose this place to mount the breather (behind the fuel door)


Once the hose was routed down near the differential, I left a bend in the hose so that it would not be pulled tight when the suspension flexes. Once the hose is secured, cut off the excess and fitted the hose over the "Union". Secure the hose with the remaining hose clamp.




I thought I would post this as many "Cheap Mod's" do not get posted. And in fact are done. Hope it helps... Thanks to WATTORA and 4x4 Wire's for the write-ups!

Wil
 

erin

Explorer
:coffee:
nice post Wil.
One question though, when you route the hose through the filler cap, do you just push it through and the expansion that inserting the breather in the hose causes hold it in place, or is it attached somehow else?
 

flyingwil

Supporting Sponsor - Sierra Expeditions
erin said:
:coffee:
nice post Wil.
One question though, when you route the hose through the filler cap, do you just push it through and the expansion that inserting the breather in the hose causes hold it in place, or is it attached somehow else?

I attached the breather using the boiling water, masked and spray painted the breather black, then inserted the end of the hose through the 1/4" hole I drilled. With the hose on it is thicker than 1/4" hole and holds nicely, but I added a hose clamp and zip tie on the rear for redundancy. Then ran the hose down the fuel neck then followed the e-locker line to the breather. If you look closely at my pic (behind the fuel filler door)... you can see where I changed my mind and removed the fisrt hose clamp.

Hope that helps you out Erin!

Wil
 
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