Expedition Portal: The Land Rover 109 IIA Build

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
If I'm not mistaken, the Ashcroft conversion kit allows the R380 or LT77 to fit to an unaltered transfer box.
Yes, they have that kit, but also one to convert the LT230 to part time.
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=322

On the subject of what to use; for me, sticking with Land Rover parts helps maintain more commonality of parts/spares since I have several Rovers. For others it may not matter and so the sky's the limit.
 

Yorker

Adventurer
It's an uncommon but not rare conversion over here which seems to work well. Keeping the Series Tx box with 4.71 diffs gives a similar overall result from a ratio perspective as a standard transmission with an overdrive. More common here is the complete transfer of a whole Defender transmission to get the LT230 in too, but that means a lot of chassis alteration for mountings and removal of the gear box and bell housing cross members, custom prop shafts and 3.54 diffs (the Defender and Discovery transfer box ratios are lower than the Series (1.4:1, 1.22:1 and 1.15:1 respectively). If running a 2.25 engine, you'd need the 1.4 transfer box from a Defender, or even the 1.6 ratio box from a pre-Defender 90 or 110.

1.15 series high range x's 4.7 diffs= 5.4 ratio (as compared to other brand vehicles that typically have a 1:1 high range ratio [Interestingly the early Jeeps were 5.38, 4.27, and 4.88 IIRC- perhaps that gives some perspective])

with a LT230 you'd likely have 1.22 high range ratio(the others here are rare or special order bits from the UK) with 1.22X's 4.7= 5.73. I think that is going too far unless you are using really large tires. 1.22*3.54 coiler R+Ps = 4.31, that would be getting you in a more reasonable range for on road work.

a 1.4 X 3.54= the same as 4.96 ring and pinion in other vehicles. If you happened to retain the 4.7 diffs that would result in a 6.58 ratio that would likely be completely useless on road. 1.6 X 3.54- 5.66 slightly exceeding the orighinal Series' high range gearing and not in a good direction.
 

MattScott

Approved Vendor
I've been working on replacing my window channels, it's been such an improvement just getting the front ones done.

Also, the NGK plugs and Genuine wires made a huge difference in the performance of the vehicle!
 

greenmeanie

Adventurer
I've been working on replacing my window channels, it's been such an improvement just getting the front ones done.

Also, the NGK plugs and Genuine wires made a huge difference in the performance of the vehicle!

IIRC the genuine wires are carbon coated glass fiber. Good while they last but in the Phoenix heat rumbling upand down the I10 mine wouldn't last more than a year. I eventually just went with a set from Magnecor and never looked back.
 

LR Max

Local Oaf
If I'm not mistaken, the Ashcroft conversion kit allows the R380 or LT77 to fit to an unaltered transfer box. That would mean the bottom PTO unit would be compatible, if you can find one. The engine or transmission will have to move as the Defender LT77 and adaptor are 100mm longer than the Series box (Disco/RRC box even longer due to the bell housing length). The R380 only had the long bell housing as standard - short R380s are specials and as such are rare and expensive.

THe R380 conversion looks very tempting, but super expensive. I'm sorry but if I'm going to be spending big bucks on a $2k transmission, then have to move mounts, change driveshaft lengths, etc, I might as well go ahead with my 6.0/NV3500 swap.

Either way, Matt I'm in the same boat. Haven't replaced wires, rotor cap or button in about 10 years. Not that it needs it, but it probably needs it!!
 

MattScott

Approved Vendor
IIRC the genuine wires are carbon coated glass fiber. Good while they last but in the Phoenix heat rumbling upand down the I10 mine wouldn't last more than a year. I eventually just went with a set from Magnecor and never looked back.

I think Magnecor likely makes a better product—but at $19 the Genuine wires will do.
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
Just an FYI, Kingsborne makes wires for the Series engines. I've been using them since the mid-80's when I used to sell them.
 

MattScott

Approved Vendor
Note to self: If your steering is incredibly vague, check the bolts on your steering box, I was missing one!

Now she steers like a charm!

Can't believe I missed that...
 

greenmeanie

Adventurer
If you are talking about the bolts that hold the steering box to the bulkhead support there are supposed to be lock tabs in there to help prevent this. Its common for them to be left off as its not the easiest place to get into to bend them into position. Part # 517878 if you should be needing them.
 

CavTrooper

Observer
It's British you will always leak oil. Remember if it is bleeding it is alive. Had an old 72 Lightweight and it left plenty of reminders on my driveway.
 

Snagger

Explorer
It's British you will always leak oil. Remember if it is bleeding it is alive. Had an old 72 Lightweight and it left plenty of reminders on my driveway.
The gear box seats through the slector shaft seals, which collects and drips off the drain plug, and the o-ring on the 4wd selector pin weeps a tiny amount from the front of the 4wd housing, but if you have any other drips, then replacing the seals or any worn/corroded part the seal runs on will sort it out - my 109 only drips a couple of times a month from those transmission points but doesn't lose a drop anywhere else. My Lightweight has a slight weep from a fuel tank, so must have a perforated seam weld, and its noil cooler low pressure hose loses a drop one in a while, but that's it. Just like the reputation for sloppy steering and bad brakes, the reputation LRs have for leaks is due to age and poor maintenance by careless owners.
 

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