Hilldweller
SE Expedition Society
Yeah, no perfect battery. Yet.
Cheap tricks and solutions - product modifications, DIY, or repurposed items- not on-sale items
- Thread starter NevetsG
- Start date
Kerensky97
Xterra101
I think the cheapest solution is realizing how much stuff you carry is just fluff. If you do some backpacking, especially ultra-light backpacking, then plan what you need to carry overlanding. Everything seems like needless luxury.
The one thing I won't skimp on is a good tent. Having shelter in a storm converts miserable or dangerous weather situations into an "off day" where you just bunker down and read a book. Same with good clothing. Make sure you have clothing that breathes and you have layers that build up to a pretty warm setup. Beyond that...
Sleeping bags are usually overbuilt unless you're camping in the cold season. My summer sleeping setup even when I carry everything, is a $15 Costco down throw blanket, and a $25 inflatable air mattress, I don't even bother unbagging my zero degree sleeping bag. If the temps dip lower I sleep in warm clothes. The sleeping bag is just too hot unless its zero degree camping.
If you don't cook a feast you can eliminate almost your whole camp kitchen setup. A single pot and spoon can warm up anything you can buy in a can. Check out this tiny stove, works pretty decent for being less than $20. I bought it as a gimmick but it's fine for heating coffee water if I'm having a cold breakfast. https://amzn.to/2JbOPzB
Good coolers are a bit difficult to do cheap but even cheap igloo and coleman coolers can keep ice 5 days or more if you put dry ice in as well. Check out one of the threads in the forums about non-refrigerated foods and even that expense is eliminated.
For all the overlanding/camping gear I carry most of it goes unused most of the trip. I'm usually driving or hiking much of the day, then just need some food and a place to lie down for the night. Most of my gear is hauled around just in case I have a whim to take a camp shower or whatever.
The one thing I won't skimp on is a good tent. Having shelter in a storm converts miserable or dangerous weather situations into an "off day" where you just bunker down and read a book. Same with good clothing. Make sure you have clothing that breathes and you have layers that build up to a pretty warm setup. Beyond that...
Sleeping bags are usually overbuilt unless you're camping in the cold season. My summer sleeping setup even when I carry everything, is a $15 Costco down throw blanket, and a $25 inflatable air mattress, I don't even bother unbagging my zero degree sleeping bag. If the temps dip lower I sleep in warm clothes. The sleeping bag is just too hot unless its zero degree camping.
If you don't cook a feast you can eliminate almost your whole camp kitchen setup. A single pot and spoon can warm up anything you can buy in a can. Check out this tiny stove, works pretty decent for being less than $20. I bought it as a gimmick but it's fine for heating coffee water if I'm having a cold breakfast. https://amzn.to/2JbOPzB
Good coolers are a bit difficult to do cheap but even cheap igloo and coleman coolers can keep ice 5 days or more if you put dry ice in as well. Check out one of the threads in the forums about non-refrigerated foods and even that expense is eliminated.
For all the overlanding/camping gear I carry most of it goes unused most of the trip. I'm usually driving or hiking much of the day, then just need some food and a place to lie down for the night. Most of my gear is hauled around just in case I have a whim to take a camp shower or whatever.
tanuki.himself
Active member
old LED christmas lights - if they are 5v or so cut the battery pack off and put a USB plug on the end and you can run them off the 12v-USB cigarette lighter converter you use to charge your phone and GPS....
Drumber
Observer
Goodwill/Thrift stores are great for cookware and cutlery.
If you aren't into used stuff, IKEA is a great resource for everything cooking and eating related. They have a lot of "picnic" items before summer. The only issue is they aren't really set up for online purchasing (you can buy online, but shipping is high)
If you aren't into used stuff, IKEA is a great resource for everything cooking and eating related. They have a lot of "picnic" items before summer. The only issue is they aren't really set up for online purchasing (you can buy online, but shipping is high)
NevetsG
Active member
That is a fantastic idea, and I bet they use very little power too.
rally roo
New member
Agreed! This just about saved our lives in Joshua Tree during the heat wave last year...
rickc
Adventurer
I shared this one before; double-sided, metallic bubble wrap bought from the local hardware store. 20 mins later, custom fit inner window sun screens. Each cut just slightly oversize so that the edges can be pushed into the gap between window and frame all the way around. The result is a drastic reduction in heat build-up in the cab, less UV exposure to plastic and leather bits. Note that the front screen is a store bought one.
Attachments
krick3tt
Adventurer
My LR has three sun roof glass openings. One opens for air at the front seats. Since I have a full roof rack there is not a lot of surface area exposed but I did put some of that silvered bubble wrap in the middle hole that is just above my head when sleeping in the Rover to cut out the light.
mezmochill
Is outside
Bungie, velcro, zip ties, adhesive backed foam and bailing wire. Combos of the above to keep stuff from rattleing and moving around.
whitenoise
Adventurer
I use a ATV sprayer for running water. It's a 10 gallon integrated water system for about $100. I made a frame out of 6061-T6 aluminum that fits in place of the 40% split rear seat. The top is a plywood platform with tiedowns for our bags, which are Mountainsmith modular hauler cubes. I removed the spray boom and substituted that with a German-made Gardena spray nozzle with a quick disconnect, which is especially nice. I can get 3 spray patterns, adjust the flow rate, and lock the trigger for continuous flow. The flow rate is just over 1GPM which is a good balance of flow and water saving.
Another tip, I have cut some old indoor outdoor carpet to place under the annex on the RTT. It could also be placed in the vestibule on a ground tent. It gives a nice clean place to put shoes and gear without getting muddy and dusty. Definitely a car camping accessory and I only bring it when I am using my trailer because it takes up space but it is sure nice, especially for longer stays.
Camp lighting. That is a brilliant idea.
BlueCruiser88
Luke
I second this mod. Run mine through a base camp water heater and have a valve to use only cold (kitchen sink sprayer). Best mod yet! Powered by a yeti 150
I never understood the more costly complicated setups to be honest. But then again I like to remove the tank if I need to use the pickup as a pickup.
NorthStar ATV Spot Sprayer - 10 Gallon, 1 GPM, 12 Volt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BJ2EYS2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_yLZkBbZZWMGYG
I never understood the more costly complicated setups to be honest. But then again I like to remove the tank if I need to use the pickup as a pickup.
NorthStar ATV Spot Sprayer - 10 Gallon, 1 GPM, 12 Volt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BJ2EYS2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_yLZkBbZZWMGYG
thebmrust
Active member
I ran across a Hoffman enclosure on Craigslist last year for $100. As we use it, it's 48"w x 36"d x 13"h. Perfect fit behind my 3rd seat in my 1999 GMC Suburban (with the spare tire out).
It was a heavy ******** though so I skeletonized the bottom, sides and back (see pics).
Eventually the bottom will have wood or expanded metal, so I can mount some attachment points for gear and still keep it "relatively" light weight.
Also on the box mod list is a quick(er) release points to remove the box when full. Right now it has to be emptied since there isn't a floor and it's crazy heavy if full.
Note: I do not have a weight before, or after skeletonizing... I'll try to figure it out one of these days.
Also need to build a mechanism/extension to be able to release/unlock the third row seat back so it can lay down. Right now you have to climb onto the Hoffman box or crawl inside and reach over the seat to flip the release lever to lay the seatback down.
Seriously thinking about adding a drawer to the box and a drop down table top since it would be nice to be able to pull things out and have a place to set them.
Still looking for carpet to put on top of the box lid.
I have one unmounted strut (need to get a second) to help keep it open. Right now, we use a modified bungee strap/hook to hold it open when both barn doors are open (using the upper door loop).
For inside the box organization we use collapsible totes (Costco $8) and/or milk crates (thrift stores $3-5) to store gear in.
Note: The holes were there when I got it. I'm sure they were from conduit and electrical cables. Some day I might fill them in. Right now, I don't really care.
Back side (faces 3rd row seat) you can also see the bottom cut out.
Right side (left side is similar).
Front (as you look at it installed from the rear of the Suburban). At the far right side below the top of the box is the release lever for the 3rd row seat. It's hidden and not easy to lay the seat down. Mechanism coming.
Here is the inside with storage totes. You can also see the bungee hook holding it open (top center).
Closer look at storage and open floor.
It was a heavy ******** though so I skeletonized the bottom, sides and back (see pics).
Eventually the bottom will have wood or expanded metal, so I can mount some attachment points for gear and still keep it "relatively" light weight.
Also on the box mod list is a quick(er) release points to remove the box when full. Right now it has to be emptied since there isn't a floor and it's crazy heavy if full.
Note: I do not have a weight before, or after skeletonizing... I'll try to figure it out one of these days.
Also need to build a mechanism/extension to be able to release/unlock the third row seat back so it can lay down. Right now you have to climb onto the Hoffman box or crawl inside and reach over the seat to flip the release lever to lay the seatback down.
Seriously thinking about adding a drawer to the box and a drop down table top since it would be nice to be able to pull things out and have a place to set them.
Still looking for carpet to put on top of the box lid.
I have one unmounted strut (need to get a second) to help keep it open. Right now, we use a modified bungee strap/hook to hold it open when both barn doors are open (using the upper door loop).
For inside the box organization we use collapsible totes (Costco $8) and/or milk crates (thrift stores $3-5) to store gear in.
Note: The holes were there when I got it. I'm sure they were from conduit and electrical cables. Some day I might fill them in. Right now, I don't really care.
Back side (faces 3rd row seat) you can also see the bottom cut out.
Right side (left side is similar).
Front (as you look at it installed from the rear of the Suburban). At the far right side below the top of the box is the release lever for the 3rd row seat. It's hidden and not easy to lay the seat down. Mechanism coming.
Here is the inside with storage totes. You can also see the bungee hook holding it open (top center).
Closer look at storage and open floor.