If I understand correctly, the goal is dome always, LED sometimes? To do it with an SPST:
View attachment 274484
Hey
dwh Yes, you understand the circuit goal exactly. Dome always, LED's only when the switch is on. You know, this is the 3rd time I've seen the same schematic in the past 3 days. I believe you guys are right and I'm going to run with this circuit design.
I think the cross-connect between the switch and the other side of the LED's is going to short the circuit. I think the switch should be IN the cross-connect. But my architectural degree does not make me much of an electrical engineer.
I think you are right
nwoods, it will probably short. I know what you mean, my degree is in mechanical engineering and it doesn't make me much of an electrical engineer either. Pesky architects!!!
What DWH said is basically the way I would do it,your method is a small bit over complicated,but I can also see where you are coming from. Are you trying to avoid dropping the headliner to get the wires run,and want to take the feed from the loom going up to the headliner? It is super easy to implement, You can use your switch that you have already. If it isn't dark tonight I'll take a picture of how mine is done,all you need to do then is add in the switch to control the LEDs independently and you're done
By doing it the way you have outlined is totally fine,but you're over thinking it.
JamesW, you are right, it was overly complicated. I was trying to make use of the Double Throw. As it turns out, headliner access isn't necessary for the wiring routing and where I intend to place the additional LED lights. I would appreciate that picture if you get a chance.
Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT)
being a push button, is it latching or momentary ?
NO=Normally open so thats a set of contacts open circuit or off
NC= Normally closed so thats a set of contacts which are on-or in contact allowing current flow
If its non latching it will only change state while being pushed
if its latching then its push for change state and push again for change back
Yes it is a push button Latching style.
Think of it this way - everything in a car is designed for a nominal 12 volt system, and the devices are constant voltage not constant current. Meaning that they expect to see 12 Volts and then will pull whatever current they need (or blow a fuse trying).
Since the battery is a 12 volt device, you get the correct voltage for the devices you hook up by placing them between the positive and negative terminals of the battery. Everything in your vehicle - the starter, the ECU, the radio, each and every light, is effectively in parallel between the positive and negative terminals.
The layout of a vehicle electrical system is like a ladder - the stringers are the voltage rails (12V and ground), and each device you hook up has to have it's own rung.
Thanks
pugslyyy, that was a good reminder. I appreciate it.
I think he is trying to run the lights in series then put an over ride switch on them so he can turn them on and off. The switch is probably a button style not a momentary. His way would work fine with the minimal draw. It's what I would do to add aN accessory to an existing circut. but I would put a fuse between the hot line into the new circut and the existing one. That way you know s which fuse to change is it blows. Led don't work it's new fuse. Nothing works. Old fuse.
You have to remember these circuits are multi use. I'm pretty sure you dome light is already an additional circut to something. You might be better off wiring up a new circut for the leds then patching into the door switches. Then put your over ride in. That way u can still turn them on and off nd utilize the door switches without taxing the original system.
Just my 2 cents
Great idea
toyrunner!!! I didn't think about adding a fuse. I should do that.
I agree with Toyrunner, I would get a BluSea fuse box and run a separate circuit. In fact, that's what I did on my ride Jay, and I used the exact LEDs you're using. My accessory LEDs don't turn on with the door switches, as I have them wired to a simple on/off switch, but I haven't found it to be a problem at all. I don't like cutting or tapping into original wiring harnesses if I don't have to. I think having accessories wired separately avoids electrical gremlins in the long run, and if problems arise, separate circuits are much easier to troubleshoot.
jloc, I think I'm going to add an inline fuse as opposed to adding a fuse box. I remember you used those LED's. I think I read one of your posts when you were doing all of that electrical on your truck. You inspire me to order that same set of lights. I like how thin the profile is. Yes, I agree with your comment about chasing electrical gremlins so I'll be adding an inline fuse in the circuit just after I tap off of a hot wire.
Check it out. I was able to wire up the switch today and make a bit of a harness out of it.
