ATO AterraXL composite flatbed camper (pagoda roof)

RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
Huh. the bulk of the frame is external to the reflective surface, so maybe heat is scattered outward, including onto the frame? maybe?

I think that’s exactly it!!

Anyway, a standalone insulated reflective and reversible cover would be boss.

Agreed and I may try to make some when I get some free time and motivation

I have a love/hate relationship with the Arctic Tern windows. But…. The competition has its downsides too ??‍♂️
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
Huh. the bulk of the frame is external to the reflective surface, so maybe heat is scattered outward, including onto the frame? maybe?

Anyway, a standalone insulated reflective and reversible cover would be boss.

Does Arctic Tern monitor this forum?

@RAM5500 CAMPERTHING burnt his hand on his TO aluminum frame in Death Valley. True story I've been told.

It's true that there's a sizable amount of insulating loss thru <any> windows. In my AterraXL I initially found the largest "wowzas" with the amount of heat coming into the camper in the summer before I pulled the reflective blackout blinds down. The camper was getting massively heat soaked in full sun, and with only the Maxxair Mini fan above the kitchen galley, even with the 2 clerestory windows AND roof hatch open to try to extract heat out of the camper, it took too long for the heat to be drawn out. So then I started keeping the blackout blinds down 100% of the time (including roof hatch's blind). Even now in winter I have them down all the time, and I only open the blackout blinds when I'm in the camper and want more natural light.
I also just had Oregon AT install the insulating liner for the Tern Wildlands door, where the top can fold down onto the bottom. As the AterraXL comes, there's no cover/blind for the door's window, so if you're in there changing in a Pilot truck stop parking lot like I did my first night, everyone can see your birthday suit. This liner appears to be providing some needed extra insulation, and privacy for the entry door.
Keeping the blinds closed and the insulation liner over the door will help regulate the temp in the camper, where the Truma won't have to work as hard and I won't run out of propane as soon.

Speaking of light; the roof hatch's trio of LED strips gives the most instant light in the camper. The small ring light that's in the Maxxair Mini fan above the kitchen galley gives the 2nd most light. Then there are the "mood light" strips around the perimeter of the camper about shoulder-height. These are dimmable and can be turned on by the switch at the entry near Wrappon, or via Garmin PowerSwitch app.
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
Looks really heavy. Doesn't the F-150 and 250 have the same body?

What looks heavy? Have you seen the other truck campers out there? Another F-SD I follow on IG just weighed in at over 18,000lbs! Uff da.

Different chassis, same/similar cabs 150 to 250/350/450/550.
 

Ozarker

Pontoon Admiral
What looks heavy? Have you seen the other truck campers out there? Another F-SD I follow on IG just weighed in at over 18,000lbs! Uff da.

Different chassis, same/similar cabs 150 to 250/350/450/550.
That's what I thought, so to be a really cool guy at the Mall, I can lift my F-150 2 inches and just change the badges on the fenders! :cool:
 

Victorian

Approved Vendor : Total Composites
Andreas, have you thought about offering reflective and insulated coverings for the Tern windows you sell?

Not insulated but to reduce heat from the sun we usually apply a perforated vinyl on them. Makes a huge difference.
 

Victorian

Approved Vendor : Total Composites
No, in the summer, mine radiates heat off of the white frames inside like a radiator. It’s super bizarre

That’s because the actual window acts like a green house and give the heat to the shade assembly. Hence my comment about heat/cold loss as soon as you introduce windows/doors.
 

Victorian

Approved Vendor : Total Composites
Huh. the bulk of the frame is external to the reflective surface, so maybe heat is scattered outward, including onto the frame? maybe?

Anyway, a standalone insulated reflective and reversible cover would be boss.

Does Arctic Tern monitor this forum?


Where are put these covers when not needed?
 

rruff

Explorer
I did my windows one by one as i was using my camper, and with each one i added, the difference in the insulation factor changed dramatically

Did you measure it?

I measured mine last week (3 day test) using an electric heater and Kill-A-Watt. 38mm thick PVC foam walls, ~420 sq ft surface area. A 24x16" and a 24x24" single pane glass sliding window. ~10 sq in "ventilation gap". 65x77" rear hatch with aluminum perimeter. Empty, so no stuff adding insulation value to any surfaces. And no people adding heat... typically a person at rest is good for ~100W.

It settled down to a heat loss of rate of ~13 W/F. 422W for a 33F temperature differential.
 
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calameda

Member
Where are put these covers when not needed?

well, i was imagining they would attach w velcro (?) and just roll up and stow when not in use. But im sure someone has more clever ideas.

You mentioned you attach perforated vinyl to the tern shades. Does this just roll up with the stock shades?

That’s because the actual window acts like a green house and give the heat to the shade assembly.

So in summer you recommend opening the windows (to avoid trapping heat) before drawing down the shades? Makes sense.
 

Victorian

Approved Vendor : Total Composites
well, i was imagining they would attach w velcro (?) and just roll up and stow when not in use. But im sure someone has more clever ideas.

You mentioned you attach perforated vinyl to the tern shades. Does this just roll up with the stock shades?



So in summer you recommend opening the windows (to avoid trapping heat) before drawing down the shades? Makes sense.

Sorry about the misunderstanding. I wanted to say that the perforated vinyl is applied on the outside of the skylight window pane.
 

wfv56

Active member
Sorry about the misunderstanding. I wanted to say that the perforated vinyl is applied on the outside of the skylight window pane.
As in your applying one of the window films? I’ve seen claims by ceramic window film manufacturers claiming to reduce heat but no actual scienc. Do they work and if so which one?
 

RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
Did you measure it?

I measured mine last week (3 day test) using an electric heater and Kill-A-Watt. 38mm thick PVC foam walls, ~420 sq ft surface area. A 24x16" and a 24x24" single pane glass sliding window. ~10 sq in "ventilation gap". 65x77" rear hatch with aluminum perimeter. Empty, so no stuff adding insulation value to any surfaces. And no people adding heat... typically a person at rest is good for ~100W.

It settled down to a heat loss of rate of ~13 W/F. 422W for a 33F temperature differential.

Nerd
 

trackhead

Adventurer
I have zero concerns about the insulation in the ATO. Mario has done a terrific job engineering that camper. It’s also true in all these truck campers we are heating relativly small spaces.

Yeah, ultimately R5 and a small space isn't too hard to keep warm. Thx for info.
 

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