2005 Tundra novice build - "The Rez"

Kpack

Adventurer
Duratrac's aren't directional, so I guess theoretically I could do a cross rotation. I don't have a full-size spare right now (on my list) so I'm only doing 4 tire rotations.

I went ahead and rotated the tires myself yesterday. While I was under there I got a good look at the LCA bushings....they are all cracked and not in great shape:


I also took some video of the wobble I saw in the front tires, before I rotated. The rear tires are both straight and true as seen here:

The front tires both wobble back and forth like this:

While the wheels were off I cleaned up the mounting surfaces on all four to make sure there were no interference. I saw this weight on the passenger drum when I had the wheels off. I've never seen a weight on a drum like that.....does this happen often? I haven't taken the rear wheels off myself since I've had the truck (never had a need to, rotations performed at a shop) so this is the first time I've seen this.


After rotating the tires there is a very noticeable difference in the vibration. I can still feel it in the pedal and floor at ~40mph (much less than before) but not at all in the steering wheel now. I believe the bad tires in the back are vibrating up the driveline into the pedals. So it looks like my tires are the cause of the vibration, and the tires went bad due to bad alignment.

So, next up is new LCA's with bushings installed. Then alignment and new tires.
 

Kpack

Adventurer
The truck was already lifted a bit when I bought it. I lifted the front more when I switched to ICON coilovers. When I replaced the CV axles with CVJ remanufactured ones I did not use hose clamps. The inner boots are hi-angle boots, and the outer ones are normal. The clamps they used seem to be well-made so I'm not worried. It's been hundreds of miles since I put them on and I haven't seen any leaking.
 

Kpack

Adventurer
Good to hear its fixed, what tires are you thinking about next?
Not quite fixed yet. The truck is actually in the shop at the moment getting the LCA bushings replaced. I would attempt it myself but I have absolutely no time to do so...between work, family, new babies, other responsibilities, I don't have a spare couple Saturday's to work on it. Plus I figured the cam bolts would be a nightmare to get out....and I was right. The shop is really struggling with it. One of the mechanics said he doesn't like my truck anymore, lol.

Soon as this is done and alignment is set, then I'm considering BFG KO2's. Many people have good things to say about them, so I figured I'd have better luck with them.
 

Loubaru

Adventurer
I can totally understand that. In the middle of kitchen and bathrooms remodel/rebuild now. Did the rest of the house remodel myself but looking into my time spent on vacation to do work I don't want to do (tile), its totally worth paying someone that does it every day and will be more efficient. Tile guy that is doing us a favor (only does super expensive new construction now) so is having me do all of the rough out and general work, tundra is getting a good work out.

Lower control arm bushings seems like one of those jobs, lol. Have you looked at the Cooper Stmaxx? Those are what im leaning towards once my Toyo ats need replacing. I don't think they are sopposed to be as good as the duratraks in snow/ice but better than the bfs.

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Loubaru

Adventurer
I can totally understand that. In the middle of kitchen and bathrooms remodel/rebuild now. Did the rest of the house remodel myself but looking into my time spent on vacation to do work I don't want to do (tile), its totally worth paying someone that does it every day and will be more efficient. Tile guy that is doing us a favor (only does super expensive new construction now) so is having me do all of the rough out and general work, tundra is getting a good work out.

Lower control arm bushings seems like one of those jobs, lol. Have you looked at the Cooper Stmaxx? Those are what im leaning towards once my Toyo ats need replacing. I don't think they are sopposed to be as good as the duratraks in snow/ice but better than the bfs.

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SportsmanJake

Adventurer
@Kpack

If I mount the w
Finally got the chance to finish up the front bumper install by getting winch fully situated. Thanks viperdriver for the picture of how you mounted your box. I'd been struggling with how to do it, but your way seemed simple enough for me. I found that there is plenty of space to work with to mount the box even after the bumper is installed on the truck. The design of the bumper makes it very easy to get in there do what you need to.

I mounted the box by drilling two holes into the bumper, coating the bare metal with Rustoleum, then securing the box with two #8 bolts/washers/nylock nuts.


I used #2 gauge wire, since that is what came on the winch already, and ran new cables from the new box location to the hookups on the winch. All zip-tied together for cleanliness. The red wire is actually a small ground wire from the control box....I had to lengthen the original wire, and red was all I had on hand.


All new connectors with heat-shrink wrapping


Positive and negative leads going through the body where the A/C line crosses. I taped several layers of electrical tape so the rubber coating on the wires doesn't get damaged.


Connections to the battery. I'm not terribly jazzed about how dirty my engine compartment us.


Plug is easily accessed from the front of the bumper, and the controller can be stretched to the driver's seat if needed.


Finally I can say that I'm done with the front bumper project. Everything is together, it all works nicely, and I'm loving the look of the truck now. Just need to get some shackles and the rest of the recovery gear. Next step is to get underneath it and clean off the rust (now that it's easy to get to) and paint the front part of the frame. I did the rear and sides a couple years ago, but I'll need to do them again. I'll wait for that until after I get the sliders welded on.


-Kevin
So it looks like I could wire the winch to the control box after I install the bumper?

I only ask because I have helpers coming to install the bumper Sunday, but my 2 awg cable (for the winch) won't arrive until next week.
 

Kpack

Adventurer
I can totally understand that. In the middle of kitchen and bathrooms remodel/rebuild now. Did the rest of the house remodel myself but looking into my time spent on vacation to do work I don't want to do (tile), its totally worth paying someone that does it every day and will be more efficient. Tile guy that is doing us a favor (only does super expensive new construction now) so is having me do all of the rough out and general work, tundra is getting a good work out.

Lower control arm bushings seems like one of those jobs, lol. Have you looked at the Cooper Stmaxx? Those are what im leaning towards once my Toyo ats need replacing. I don't think they are sopposed to be as good as the duratraks in snow/ice but better than the bfs.

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I've looked casually at the Cooper ST Maxx, but I haven't met anyone who's owned them so I have nothing to go on. The guys around here seem to like the BFG's in the snow, though maybe they aren't quite as good as the Duratrac's. One of the main reason's I'm leaning towards BFG's is I can get them at Costco, and if I understand their policy correctly I can return them if I don't like them. Plus they are way less expensive there than anywhere else around me.

@Kpack

If I mount the w

So it looks like I could wire the winch to the control box after I install the bumper?

I only ask because I have helpers coming to install the bumper Sunday, but my 2 awg cable (for the winch) won't arrive until next week.
Just get your winch installed before you mount the bumper, the wiring can wait until after. You can easily mount the control box and do all the wiring once the bumper is on because of all the access that is built into the bumper.
 

tennesseewj

Observer
I've had the ST Maxx on a previous Silverado and am currently running the KO2 on my Tundra. I'd purchase either tire again with confidence.

The KO2s are on EVERYONE'S rig and I kind of liked being different with the ST Maxx, but the KO2s commonality also makes it easier to find when needed.

We never get more than a few inches of snow here in Knoxville and only once or twice a year, but both tires served me well on both the fresh and the re-frozen white stuff.

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Series1Rangie

Adventurer
I have the bfg ko2 on my Tundra. I went up one size to the 4Runner standard. They do a good job on fresh powder, slush, refreeze, everything you find going skiing in UT. Highly recommend them, and would get them again.


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Kpack

Adventurer
Thanks for your input regarding tires. I'm definitely leaning heavily toward the BFG's. Yes everyone has them, but that I think speaks highly of the tire.


Got the truck back today from several days in the shop. I feel bad for the guys who had to work on it! All four cam bolts had to be cut off in order to get the LCA's off the truck, and that was a pretty miserable process for them. We kept the old LCA's because there was nothing wrong with them, and it was cheaper to just press out the bushings and put new ones in. Still, it wasn't a cheap fix....~$1,100 when all was said and done.....new OEM bushings and sleeves, new cam bolts (with zerk fittings this time!), labor, and alignment. They earned every penny of the labor. There's no way I could have done this fix on my own. I don't have the right tools, the time or the patience.

Shiny new cam bolts. Grease fittings are on the outsides of all four bolts.


Truck drives noticeably better now. The rest of my front end is pretty new (ball joints, tie rods) but the front still felt a bit squirrely. Not anymore. Drives straight as an arrow, feels planted during cornering even without the sway bar connected, and steering response is improved. The truck even sits better now....raised the lift on both front sides by ~1/4". Looks like the old bushings were smashed as well as cracked.
 
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