That looks like a great solution. Very clean and functional. I wonder if that cable will rattle a bunch on rough roads though....nothing a little padding couldn't fix I'm sure.MODIFICATION: Secondary Rear Hatch Release
Open the hatch from inside of the car.
My Sequoia still had the plastic handle. Do a quick search and you'd see that I was pushing my luck regarding this notorious failure in design. Thankfully, after 7 years of ownership, it hadn't snapped. But I could definitely feel the resistance increasing when opening the rear hatch. I figured preventive maintenance would be a good thing since it would be incredibly painful trying to fix the rear hatch handle with my storage box and hatch MOLLE panel in the way.
Additionally, figured this was a good time to stamp out another nuisance mod: Add a secondary latch release pull cable that would allow me to open the hatch from the inside. Super great when camping out in the Sequoia.
DURATION: 2 Hours
There's lots of details and how-to's to remove and replace the handle and latch. This section will cover the modifications I made to accept a repurposed pull cable and how it's routed into the interior.
First I modified the latch assembly and added notches to the actuating arm and cable retainer:
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Cables loaded. I bent a 90deg bend on the ball side of the old cable to ensure it stays in place once loaded into the assembly. Also, added zip ties to keep the cables from sliding off the retainer for any reason.
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The housing notched to accept the extra cable.
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Fully loaded and reassbled.
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Just a visual of the extra cable as seen through latch opening.
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The repurposed cable was routed under the glass in the closed/down position and up in front of the motor.
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All buttoned up.
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Works like a charm. I'll add a "T" handle when I find one that works.
Installation note: The lock actuator is super sensitive about the extra cable loaded onto the arm. If its pulled taught, the extra cable will prevent locking/unlocking of the hatch.
Thanks!That looks like a great solution. Very clean and functional. I wonder if that cable will rattle a bunch on rough roads though....nothing a little padding couldn't fix I'm sure.
On a side note, I'm super jealous of the incredibly useful Molle panels you can install in a Sequoia. I have nowhere to put anything like that in my Tundra.
I've looked into that for the 1st gen Tundra, but we don't have the room behind the rear seats that the Tacoma guys do. On the DC the whole rear window slides down, and the mechanism takes up a lot of room.Thanks!
Didn't rattle much when I was out in the desert this weekend trying out the MTRs. I don't think the cable will be too much of an issue.
For a MOLLE panel, what about on the back cab wall?
Kinda like this:
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Maybe @toyotech could add this to his gear portfolio?
I've also seen bedside options on tacos that look pretty good.
This time, I think I'm going to the extra 26.2 miles and max out the negative caster and trim the fenders too so I can remove my 1/2" bumpstop spacers.
Agreed.I have never cared for how my Tundra rode without lots of caster, the steering was really slow to center if it did at all and it sort of hunted on crowned roads.
Wait, so are you saying that more caster made it worse? I thought more caster was supposed to make the front end more stable and make it return to center easier? I'm getting mine aligned today and I was going to have them aim for ~ +3.0 caster.Agreed.
At 3.1, it was especially annoying on roads frequented by Semis where there noticeable tire indentations on the road due to heavy and frequent usage. It just grabbed onto every imperfection it could find.
I've found 2.1-2.3 is just about right.
When I still had OEM spindles, LBJs, and tie rods, 3deg caster was fine. In fact, I preferred 2.6-3.1deg of caster. It felt more stable. Can't really speak about return to center since I never really paid attention to it.Wait, so are you saying that more caster made it worse? I thought more caster was supposed to make the front end more stable and make it return to center easier? I'm getting mine aligned today and I was going to have them aim for ~ +3.0 caster.
Ahh, yes. I had forgotten you switched over to the Solo kit. That makes way more sense now.When I still had OEM spindles, LBJs, and tie rods, 3deg caster was fine. In fact, I preferred 2.6-3.1deg of caster. It felt more stable. Can't really speak about return to center since I never really paid attention to it.
When I upgraded to the Solo kit, it changed my suspension geometry a bit (caster, toe in/out when the suspension cycles, etc.) Not to mention it took out all the slop in my steering. Caster above 2.7 really causes the car to wander and track onto every little imperfection on the road above 65mph.
It's a trade off and the feel is subjective.
If you use Facebook, join the Toyota Sequoia Off Road group. Lots if helpful lads in there that can also answer questions.All I can say is Wow, quite the build thread. It has been bookmarked, and a lot of your photos saved, much appreciate all the trouble you went to share so much detail.
I've been trying to research Sequoias, thinking about picking on up, and came across this thread. I couldn't stop till I got to the end. It would be mostly a street, light trail truck for me, so I wouldn't be going anywhere near the level of hard core modifications you have. I'm thinking springs, shocks, wheel spacers and 33's primarily. Couple of questions, born mostly out of my 'web search research', as I have no real experience with the trucks...
03s and up have the factory included option to lock the transfer case anytime in 4wd. Only 01-02 were limited to 1st gear 4lo.1) Was looking for a 2005-2007 primarily because I understand there were significant differences to the four wheel drive system (as well as the VVTi engine and 5 speed gearbox), and had read about the earlier trucks only keeping the center diff locked in 1st gear, and unlocking it in reverse, and such. I didn't see any mention of any updates to circumvent this, and was trying to see if there was some 'cut this wire' simple fix to that issue. I see you have ARB Lockers front and rear, so I have to assume you found a way to address the center diff lock issue, and I just missed it?
No one makes one and not worth the trouble, IMO.2) I see you went from one to three jerry cans out back, with the spare removed from under the truck, why not run an Aux Fuel tank in that spot?
Currently at 257k miles. I've put 124k since the purchase 7 years ago. The only major issue was the transmission. Not like it quit on me or suffered a major failure, but I lost 4th gear.3) How many miles are on it, and any issues with items like the buried starter, or Alternator? I've become aware of the week ball joint issue in the front end and the rear hatch handle that breaks frequently, but these things seem pretty bullet proof otherwise?
Again, truck looks great, thanks for sharing your journey with all of us..