I was going to grab one off eBay yesterday $153.00 looked like the Aluminum body amazon one above --5KW -- sale had "make offer" also so I did -- Offered $145, saw some others sold for $147 or so -- Seller declined and raised the price to $173 -- had a bunch of different auctions listed from the same location -- Ontario, CAI am wanting to pull the trigger on one also.. but just can’t decided on which one to get and where to get it from.. wish, Amazon, eBay, ect.
Also what size would be suggested for a ford excursion? I am thinking the 2kw? Or is the 5kw suggested?
2kw is more then adequate to heat that space up. 5kw is not going to run long at high heat and idle at low temps building up soot in the burner.I have been considering putting one of these in a Pelican case and using it to heat my roof top tent. While browsing Ebay I found a couple 5kw units that are already enclosed in a metal case. I have no experience with these heaters so thought I'd post here and see if anyone knows if this unit would work sitting on my truck tailgate with the output running through a flexible tube into my tent.
I love this thread, I’ve been thinking about a propex heater to heat my RV5 oztent or RTT for quite a while, but now I’m rethinking that based on this. Just spent a few hours watching the demo and subsequent teardown videos —quite informative!If it's aluminum, especially white or blue, it's a version 2. .... Somebody else would know more about the feasibility of this than I do, but it might be worth thinking about using a boost converter to get up to 14 or so volts even when the vehicle is off.
Excellent point. Lately I’ve been running the X2Power Deep Cycle AGMs from batteries plus and they seem to be fairly reasonable (compared to optima, etc) and well performing. By the time I build this, I’ll have twin group 31s in my trailer running in parallel, so I’m not worried about the amperage or capacity for a few nights.Even an 11V cutout would be lower than I'd want, very much will shorten lifespan of an expensive deep cycling bank.
Of course with cheap batts who cares don't last more than a few years anyway.
FYI 10.5V is the standard definition for 0% SoC (100% DoD) when 20-hour load testing for State of Health.
This seems like it would be one -- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-alloy-2KW-12V-Diesel-Air-Heater-LCD-Switch-2000W-For-Truck-Boat-Car/332949956133?hash=item4d855d2625:g:XzEAAOSwmvpcExuM:rk:1:pf:0Anybody got a link to one of the updated versions in 2K instead of 5?
How the progress coming, I ordered the same one today.I started my project today since I was the only one at work. Ran to Home Depot, and picked up this metal toolbox for $20 and some other do dads that I don’t think I’m going to be able to use.
Off to a good start, I went home at lunchtime. If I’m motivated, I’ll go in and do more over the weekend.
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This is a good option, but I just want to make sure it's apparent that you are talking about putting the cabin air intake inside the box and not the combustion air intake. The combustion intake and exhaust must be outside the vehicle.Instead of insulating the exhaust, simply have the heater pull its air from inside the box and then install a vent on the outside of the box. This will allow the airflow in the box to keep it cool.