Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
Wish i was coming up to Flagstaff soon, been busy lately. I'll work on getting up there to beat the heat and check out your new place. While I'm up there I'll have a look at the old beast.
8/16/19 - Mystery Vibrations 2019 UPDATE - So with the new 100% certainty that it is not the wheels or tires, I took it back to the mechanics and they just spent 2 days looking it over and could not find anything wrong with it. They even had 3 techs drive it down the highway with 2 of them with their heads out the window staring at the tires and they said they could even see the vibration in the toe of the tires.
Not finding anything wrong with the joints, arms, or tierods they suggested it could be the rack and pinion because, well, basically what else could it be was their logic. That was a $1800 quote to replace the rack with a reman so I told them, look, if it needs a new rack that's one thing, and sometimes I'm all for throwing parts at things, but not when it's an $1800 guess. So I gave them a copy of the FSM's Power Steering section and they tested the entire power steering system per Mitsubishi's flow chart and found no problems with the rack other than a tiny bit of movement in the steering rack mount bushings but doubtful that it is enough movement to cause these vibrations.
So now my list of suspects looks like this:
My List of Suspects:
Steering Rack Bushings
- Recheck Alignment to see if anything has moved since my alignment last month, maybe it will give me a clue as to what wheel to focus on.
- Remove Front Sway Bar (I don't really expect this to affect the vibrations but maybe it will remove the clunk in the front end I get when offroading)
- Research possibility of sourcing replacement steering rack bushings.
- Check brake rotor and hub runout.
MORE SYMPTOMS TO CONSIDER:
Ok, these next 2 thinsg may or may not be related to the vibrations in the steering wheel but I have these metallic humming sound that kind of sounds like it is coming from the front passenger side of the vehicle but not 100% sure. Intake sucking, Exhaust leak, wheel bearing, Fron Diff Whine? Good guesses but here's the thing, the noise only happens on acceleration AND in 2wd.
So there goes every theory out the window. If it was an exhaust leak, why would it matter if the car was in 2wd? Same goes for an intake leak. And a wheel bearing wouldn't care if you were on the gas, if the wheel is turning it would keep humming.
My question is - Can you guys think of anything that only spins or could make contact with something in the front driveline when in 2wd?? So bizarre.
Also, I think I have a massive exhaust leak from the new muffler I just had installed. I noticed that my 2nd row floor mat was really hot, literally melting! So I looked underneath the truck and the undercoating was pealing off above the new muffler and the muffler has like vapor residue markings on it. I'm going to smoke test it this weekend but 99% sure it's got a hell of a leak. I'm kind of pulling my hair out over here and losing sleep with all of these snowballing problems.
Pretend we didn't speak on the phone today so I can fill other people in, haha.Still not a single person has actually checked the run-out at the wheels?
Brilliant idea, I hadn't thought of that! I had obviously thought about what could be the difference with the front diff in 2wd vs Awd and so I did a visual inspection of the free wheel bellows/actuator but I can't believe I didn't think of the solenoids given that every high mileage Gen3 will have those go out at some point. It's such a known/common problem that I always keep a spare part in the vehicle because of not wanting to be stranded without 4x4 in the middle of nowhere on one of my adventures. So I went out to the truck today and switched in the new China aftermarket one and went for a test drive. THE NOISE IS GONE! No impact on the vibrations unfortunately but hey, any time you can check a problem off the list is a good day! Thanks so much, if you're ever in Flagstaff hit me up and the beers are on me.Could the metallic sound be the free wheel solenoids going bad and partially engaging the front diff ?
There are several threads on here how to replace that part. Aftermarket its about $20 on Amazon.
My guess is they forgot to tighten down the jam nuts and cam bolts, it's not uncommon. I retorque everything myself after an alignment and torque stripe the hardware. Most mechanics don't believe in proper torque, I've worked in a lot of good shops and I'm usually the only guy who uses torque specs every time.
Ya, it was 2 thousands of an inch (aka 5% of a mm) on the hubs which is basically 0 when you factor in the accuracy of the tool and dirt on the surface of the hubs. My wife's MDX has been at Acura of Tempe for the last 3 weeks getting it's engine rebuilt (leaking control rings) and whenever they're done with it I'll head down and stay for a few days to sort out Montero issues. Got to visit you and Ernest, get some SP3 from the dealer so I can do a trans service and replace the trans mount bushings to see if that helps the vibrations, and have the dealer reset the TPMS system.Bummed, you couldn't find much variance. Let me know when you plan to be down.