Yet Another Camper Homebuild Thread

tanuki.himself

Active member
although its more of a barge than a yacht......

A couple of years in the planning, and now 6 months into the actual build Campalot (".......its only a model" - Monty Python quote-ish) has finally made it onto the truck for a successfull test drive

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Having spent much of the last 7 years on the road with accomodation ranging from a tent and air mattresses, via a rented C class (NZ) to a 5th wheel (Oz) and Class A diesel pusher (US, CA), our build criteria for this one were:

Min 5 ft North-South bed with proper mattresses
Internal toilet and shower
Fit on a European truck
Fit in a shipping container

We chose the Ranger 3.2 supercab to give us a 6ft load bed with more torque and a 1.2 tonne load capacity, but it would also fit on a Nissan Navara 2.5 king cab or NP300 2.2. We've built this primarily for shipping out to southern Africa, but also plan to take it over to northern Africa and the Atlas mountains, around the Baltic and the European islands in the Mediteranean and North sea and mountain ranges - basically anywhere that is likely to involve ferries or twisty roads......we may swap to another 5th wheel after for mainland Europe for a bit more comfort and space

It is inspired by things like the Lance 865 but narrower to fit on the smaller European trucks, and i couldnt afford a Bimobile. We also kept it demountable on the stock tub so we have a normal vehicle we can use the rest of the time, but i may eventually swap to a flatbed/utility body with storage lockers I can expand or shrink depending on the circumstances

The body panels are 2mm FRP over 30mm Styrofoam, strengthened with 30mm Tancast at the edges and specific fixing points, made to order by a UK supplier. They gave me a price that was competitive with what i would have been paying for materials to make my own over Nidacore, and i'm sure they are an infinitely better finish than I could have ever managed myself.




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Enough has been written elsewhere about this type of panel construction, so i wont dwell on them, but there are a few aspects that I've not seen anywhere else that may be of more interest:

Pultruded fibreglass beam subframe.

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Beams are 100x50 C channel or 120x70 I beam for the perimeter frame with the top outer flange cut off to give a support for the walls. I thought this idea would avoid thermal bridging and differential expansion issues over a metal frame. And besides, my welding is still lousy (see later pics)


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Joints are wet hand layup of CSM and polyseter resin in female moulds. Working in Spanish summer temperatures this proved quite rushed as the resin cured so quickly, even with slow catalyst, and I could only make one a day after the sun went down. They then took a lot of cleaning up and trimming to give a consistent base for bolting together. If I were doing it again I think i would invest in a cheap vacuum pump and try resin infusion on a dry layup on a male mount, then encased in the female mould to give a more consistent finish with less subsequent cutting and grinding. Joints are glued with Sikaflex 252 and bolted with 6x6mm or 4x8mm stainless bolts


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The main floor is then raised another 40mm over C channels. This should allow for water storage between the floor beams over most of the tub area to keep the CoG low. I'm going to try some marine bladders for water storage that will mould themselves to the available space, but if they don't work then I'll have to make and cure some custom fibreglass tanks to make best use of the space. i hope to be able to carry upto 160 litres of water like this.

Subframe weighs in at just under 100kg, and the panels should be around 360kg by calculation - i'll find a weighbridge to visit one day

more to follow.....
 
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SquirrelZ

Member
The fiberglass beams for a frame is a great idea! Your attention to detail and craftsmanship is impressive.

How do the corner supports work? They appear to just hold the camper up once it is lifted. If so, how do you actually lift the camper?

I'm looking forward to seeing more of your ideas!
 

tanuki.himself

Active member
One problem with working in Europe and with the Ranger is that standard truck camper components are not readily available, or prohibitively expensive to ship from the US, so i have chosen to make a few bits myself

Jack legs are pulltruded fibreglass box sections - they make scaffold poles out of this stuff for use around electrical equipment so figured they should be OK for the load. I managed to source 1m long, 24mm Acme thread lead screws and bevel drive gears from a couple of UK suppliers, and then have made up the fixings myself so they bolt into the subframe corners. They are working OK so far with a foot long spanner or ratchet drive but it takes a while as I only get 2.5mm travel for each turn of the spanner and need to get it 900mm off the ground to drive the truck under. But now I know they work i can start looking for some suitable 12v motors....




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Tie downs are "inspired by" Happijacs but longer, and mostly made with Ebay components. They are all stainless except for the springs, and I can vary the spring rates with light, meduim or heavy springs and achieve some sort of progressive rate with a mixture of all 3. I confess I did pay a local welder to fix the nuts to the end of the tubes as my cheap gasless MIG was just not getting any penetration and just balling up on the surface.....

On the test drive there was no sign of the nose lifting at speed, so i think the front ties are OK, but it does bounce up and down a bit on rough roads - i think the back is lifting a bit against the rear springs so I may have to change from light/medium to meduim/heavy to give more resistance with no more pre-load. Or look at putting some gas struts from the nosecone to the bottom of the windscreen to damp the movement...

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I've not found any commercial tie down mounts for the Ranger so I've welded up some of my own - see what i mean about my welding. Now I know they work i'll spend several hours cleaning them up with some grinding stones and paint them. I found some pre-existing holes in the Ranger frame right next to the front tub mounts that i managed to insert a couple of nuts tacked to a steel bar into, so I have not had to drill the frame and compromise the corrosion treatment. Rear mounts i've had to drill into the factory towbar but as that is a replaceable item its less of an issue for corrosion, and of course i've treated the holes. The mounts are all 2 part so the base can stay on the truck without getting in the way, and the arms will only fit on when I am carrying the camper

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We took it on a 30km test drive last weekend at speeds up to 105kmh (65mph) which is probably as fast as I ever want to go, and some rough roads down to the beach car park, and it all worked OK with no lifting of the front at speed or signs of side to side movement or sway at the roundabouts. The base of the nosecone is pretty much in line with the foot of the windscreen so whilst it looks a bit bigger than most due to the truck being smaller than US ones, i don't think it looks completely ridiculous, and it doesnt really obscure the drivers view of the road ahead or traffic lights - no more so than a sun visor strip would

A close inspection of all the joints and beams afterwards shows no sign of any movement or cracking, so I think we have a viable shell build - only real extended use will reveal any more issues.

So now we start the expensive part - the fit out. I already bought the toilet and basin and a really lightweight composite refillable propane cylinder as I needed to make sure they would fit in the rear overhang. So now I need to dummy up kitchenette and seating/dining areas so I can determine window sizes and positions, and buy those, water heater, more water bags, compressor fridge/freezer (goes where the coolbox is shown to keep the weight low), solar panels, electrics, gas fittings, awnings - i want a Carefree car-port leg style for the rear over the door, but shipping from the US may be prohibitive - and all the million and one things that will make it habitable to the wife's standards. Maybe another 6 months if i keep busy.....

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SquirrelZ

Member
The jack legs are awesome! I've seen people using cordless drills to run their manual jacks up and down. It worked great. Of course they had to do one jack at a time so it took longer than pressing one button to activate 4 motors.

I had to chuckle about your comment that the US has a better availability on RV type supplies. I always look at the great stuff in Europe, especially for smaller vehicles. The grass is always greener on the other side of the fence.
 

tanuki.himself

Active member
The fiberglass beams for a frame is a great idea! Your attention to detail and craftsmanship is impressive.

How do the corner supports work? They appear to just hold the camper up once it is lifted. If so, how do you actually lift the camper?

I'm looking forward to seeing more of your ideas!
The jack legs are awesome! I've seen people using cordless drills to run their manual jacks up and down. It worked great. Of course they had to do one jack at a time so it took longer than pressing one button to activate 4 motors.

I had to chuckle about your comment that the US has a better availability on RV type supplies. I always look at the great stuff in Europe, especially for smaller vehicles. The grass is always greener on the other side of the fence.
thanks - hopefully part 2 covered how the jacks work

I am trying to keep everything 12v so i can run it all wired from the house battery. I've got a small lithium cordless drill but its not quite up to the job on the front jacks that take most of the weight. I've just ordered a similar cordless driver that says it will turn 105 NM of torque which should be enough, and would be an easy option to connect as it is a 3/8 drive as standard. Most of the other handheld high torque stuff is impact wrenches which would just destroy the gearing.

Europe makes some nice stuff but they just don't do truck campers in the same way as the US - much more about B and C class motorhomes. All the awnings here are the cantilevered cranked arm style which are fine on the side but too wide for the rear as the elbows get in each others way. Plus you can't adjust the height/pitch easily to allow for the camper being on or off the truck. I can source a roller tube and fabric no problem, but i've not been able to think of anything i could canibalise to provide the arms with the level of adjustment/extension needed, and i can't see a way to make some without complicated interlocking/sliding alloy profiles and clamps which I can't find to buy. Sometimes you just can't beat mass production....
 
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Rbertalotto

Explorer
Wow! Amazing build! Love the components you are using and your attention to detail. ......But....Those welds! .....Yikes!
 

tanuki.himself

Active member
Wow! Amazing build! Love the components you are using and your attention to detail. ......But....Those welds! .....Yikes!

yup - guilty as charged. They are solid enough but will take a lot of cleaning up. Or maybe now i have the design sorted i'll get them remade by the local fabricator.....
 

tanuki.himself

Active member
a few weeks late owing to problems getting parts delivered during the lockdown, but some progress has been made with a few of the technical systems:

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The jack heads have been completely re-engineered and motorised. Originally I fitted bevel gears expecting to use a motor with a worm drive final output, but the initial ones I tried were not powerful enough to turn the jack under load. a UK robotics company supplied me with some motors with planetary gearboxes that do the trick - they are a bit slow but are able to lift the camper shell with no problems and I would rather have control than speed. But to keep the motors parallel to the jack lead screws i've had to change to chain and cog drive to keep the whole assembly compact. I've had to weld the mountings from 35x35x4 steel angle as i couldn't buy 70mm channel or box section locally in small quantities so they turned out to be quite a bit of work, but i've ended up with motorised jacks for under 1000 euros compared to USD2500 plus shipping/import taxes for a set of Happijacs or Rieco-Titans.

Fibreglass covers are functional to keep the grease in and the rain out - eventually i will make some prettier carbon fibre effect covers for those and all the other 'structural' fibreglass brackets, but i'd like to get a few thousand kms on the rig first to make sure everything stays solid and there is no signs of wear or failure on anything.

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Quick connect remote control will allow me to walk around the camper and access all 4 jacks to line up feet/pads and make sure everything is solid and level as I lift. The motor supplier provided me with a wiring diagram with relays to allow me to use a smaller signalling cable to the switches than full current cabling, and it would also allow me to insert some magnetic reed limit switches on the jack legs, but i'm not sure yet if it is worth it as the only time the jacks will be close to full extension is if i am lowering the camper from the back of the truck to flat on the floor in one lift for shipping - normally i expect to be putting both jacks and camper onto some sort of feet or stands so a shorter lift distance.

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My water storage is based on Plastimo flexible water bladders situated between the floor joists - this should keep the weight as low and even on the truck loadbed as possible

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Initial testing shows i'm getting around 170 litres of storage which for otherwise unusable space seems reasonable compared with what i could have got if a had made custom tanks for the same spaces. TBH I probably can't carry much more than this on the GVM with all the other equipment we will normally want to carry, but if I need to in extremes i can supplement with more collapsible carriers inside the living space. The red tabs on the bag corners are for restraining the bags to stop them sliding forward under braking, and i hope that they will act to baffle each other a bit for side to side load transfer.

The pump can pull a bit of air through the system so I have found it performs better if I seal over the fill cap breather so that the vacuum can collapse the bags and get the last of the water out of them.

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I've read about composting toilets and SOG ventilation systems on here. I ended up using a Thetford c403 cassette toilet as its the neatest fit i could find for the bathroom space. This cassette has an automatic vent that opens through the floor of the toilet whenever it is inserted, so i thought I would try my own version of an extractor fan under that. Thetford do seem to sell some sort of fan themselves but i wasn't able to find any details or pictures, and the SOG system seemed to duplicate the process that was already there, so for about 6 euros for a housing and 12v PC fan I made this to fit below the cassette vent, pulling the air through a couple of layers of activated charcoal filter material and out of the camper floor overhang using the same ventilation grill as the water pump. I can add more filter material after the fan if necessary, but hopefully this will allow us to use the cassette without the need for chemicals. Like the SOG its activated by a microswitch fitted to the flush opening mechanism....
 

tanuki.himself

Active member
technical systems are now pretty much complete and successfully tested except the solar which was supposed to be delivered this week but didn't show up yet....

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I found a commercial acrylic/fibreglass shower tray that fitted in the available space with just a little tweaking and has a much nicer, more rounded finish than I think i would have achieved with a home made mould. I found a teak shower duckboard on amazon that I cut down and tweaked to fit the tray as the recess tapers slightly toward the drain, and the rubber feet have been packed up to compensate for the drainage slope in the tray and give a level floor for stepping through as it is the camper entrance.

The mirror bathroom cabinet was another fortunate internet find that fits in the space quite nicely - i've made some gel coated fibreglass trim pieces to fit around that and the basin and toilet, and then most of that is then covered with the LED lighting. There is also a small vent fan in the ceiling corner that comes on with the lighting.

The shower curtain rail is mounted on drawer sliders so that the curtain is back out of the way when the camper door is open, but then it can slide forward to give use of the whole shower tray when the door is closed. The shower head is a pull out from the sink that we may leave as handheld for when conserving water, but i may think about some sort of fold down rail mechanism eventually that moves and locks the curtain rail forward as it deploys - its a nice to have but doesn't stop us using it as is.

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I've made a start on the cabinets for kitchen and seating. I'm using plywood ribs to transfer the loads to the wall beams and floor and keep it off the fibreglass and foam wings that go over the tub sides as i'm not sure how strong they are. For structural use I'm re-using a load of 9mm ply that I had from a previous temporary project hence the random old screw holes and bad varnish, but where its not going to be seen it should be OK for an initial build. I'm trying to keep it all as light weight as possible and still allow a bit of flexibility in the joints as I expect the whole camper will flex a bit. If i find its not up to the job I can remake in thicker material at a later date.

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Water heater is under the kitchen counter, so I need to find a way to mount the panel in front so it can be removed/swung out of the way to allow access for repairs/servicing. We are not fitting a full time cooker inside the camper - experience has taught us that keeping the cooking smells outside of a small camper and away from bedding and soft furnishings is a good idea - but i have fitted a quick connect gas point into the kitchen so we can bring the portable cooktop inside in bad weather. Its got a manifold shutoff for when its not in use, and also sits straight over the same gas drop through the floor as the water heater. The centre space is sized to allow a combination oven/grill/microwave if we are willing to carry the weight and know we are going to be on campground power for much of a trip. If we are going to be doing more boondocking and need to carry more weight in water it can stay home.

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The battery almost fits in over the side wing where it is recessed to clear the wheelarch in the tub, and the plywood transfers that concentrated weight straight down onto the frame floor joist. Originally I thought it would have to go on the floor in the corner to keep the weight as low and as far forward as possible, but this makes it easier to stand in front of the whole worktop and the sink which will go at that end of the counter top.

The only wood i have been able to find to buy here is pine, which I hate. Frames are through wedged mortise and tenons which is the strongest method I can think of, but again if they show signs of overloading or stress after a few months of use i can remake them in something proper like oak. Otherwise they may end up being oak veneered - i know where i can get that from the internet in the UK when I next visit again.

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Base cupboard/seat have to be built in situ as they are too big to go through the door. Wall cupboards will be tacked together in situ but then glued up on the bench where i can get clamps on them properly. If my memories of college engineering are correct the end / divider panels should brace them enough so that the back wall screws should be in shear as the weight tries to pull the cabinets down, and the front screws into the roof should also mostly be in shear as the cabinet tries to rotate around the bottom rear edge. For now they are just into the fibreglass skin with woodscrews but i'll then drill those larger and fit M4 jack nuts in place. And then also run some sikaflex 252 on the wood/fibreglass joints as well.

I'll get the other wall cupboard under way this week, then hopefully i'll be able to confirm the window sizes we can fit and get those ordered.....
 

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tanuki.himself

Active member
A couple more detailed ideas to share....

Central heating

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I opted for a tanked hot water system over an instant heat alternative as it can run on either propane or mains electric when we are on hookup (or both for faster heat up times). It gives me a reservoir of 13 litres heated to 70c. As i'm tight on space and money, I thought i would try using this for heating as well as hot water, so have rigged a 120 x 240mm aluminium PC radiator and 2 high flow 12v fans into the heater outlet and inlet circuits with a high temperature 12v pump (sold rated to 100c for solar thermal installations). Obviously it can't heat both the camper and the shower water at the same time, but hopefully it can take the chill off the camper in the spring and autumn before showering and first thing in the mornings. Cost for all the parts was about 60 euros - much cheaper than a separate propane heater - and it fits in what would otherwise be dead space in front of the water heater and needs no external venting....

Ducted fridge/freezer

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I chose a Webasto/Indel B TB51 as it can run as either a fridge or a freezer and just fits in the space i have on the rear overhang in front of the gas storage locker to at least keep the weight low down if not forward. There is little space around it for ventilation so I have removed the original compressor casing and made a replacement from fibreglass, allowing two additional 12v PC cooling fans to be hooked up. The inlet fan is axial and will pull outside air through a hole in the front face of the rear overhang by the truck tail light. The exhaust fan is a 120mm centrifugal so I can direct the air out of the back of the casing into a pipe with another 90 degree bend and vent it back to outside close to but above the inlet. The unit will be on a slide so the idea is that the duct pipe will be rigidly mounted and the unit will press against the foam-faced ducting when the drawer is closed - it doesn't need to be perfectly airtight as long as most of the heat takes the easiest route away from the compressor

I tried wiring the extra fans in along with the inbuilt fan mounted on the heat exchanger but the unit gave an error that it was pulling more than 1 amp from the controller, so I had to add a relay and come off the overall 12v feed. This means that i can only run the fridge on 12v with this configuration but i was planning to do that anyway, and I can still revert to the original casing if i ever want to use it elsewhere on mains power - all connections are piggy backed onto the factory spade ends so there is nothing to stop me putting it back to original. And at least the extra fans switch on and off with the compressor.



And I finally got my solar fitted - ended up with poly panels as no-one had stock on the monos and with the whole covid crisis no-one knew when they would be getting new supplies

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Euro6

Member
I have just discovered that very impressive post today.
Congratulation about the great work you do on this huge construction.
Don't you have any concern about regulatory aspects ?
This camper seems much larger and heavier than the Ford Ranger is able to support...
 

tanuki.himself

Active member
I have just discovered that very impressive post today.
Congratulation about the great work you do on this huge construction.
Don't you have any concern about regulatory aspects ?
This camper seems much larger and heavier than the Ford Ranger is able to support...

Thanks - it has been a big effort but the end is in sight now - at least to have it useable. I don't suppose it will ever actually be "finished" as you can always find things to tweak.

The European Ranger with the supercab has a rated payload of 1.2 tonnes and i am hoping to come in under that when full of water. I calculated the shell should be around 500kg, then I am trying to keep everything as light as possible during the fit out. I will take it to a weigh bridge once i have completed the cabinetry and get an accurate dry weight. There is also a UK company that claim they can officially increase the weight rating by another 275kg based on the helper airbags i have fitted, so that is my backup plan if I am getting too close to the official limit.

Regulations are an interesting question, at least in Europe. It's a UK registered truck, and as far as I can work out this is just a load on the truck. It doesn't protrude from the vehicle more than 1m at the back or 300mm from the sides, so as long as i have visible lights and a number plate and it is not overloading the truck GVM i've not found any other rules i think i need to comply with. I am currently living in Spain and again, as long as it doesn't exceed the weight or overhang rules i can't find anyone who has told me its not OK - I may just have to have some red and white striped markers for the rear overhang, but even then because the lights are right at the back I'm not sure i have to put those on....
 
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Euro6

Member
What you say about regulation is right for France as well, concerning such slide-in removable camper.
My concerns were not only about respect of overall dimensions, but regarding the secure use of this pretty large assembly on road.
Suspension airbag could be an hazardous solution, especially considering a not so robust châssis...
 

tanuki.himself

Active member
My concerns were not only about respect of overall dimensions, but regarding the secure use of this pretty large assembly on road.
Suspension airbag could be an hazardous solution, especially considering a not so robust châssis...

Not sure what you are driving at here. I'm not aware of any failings that make the Ranger less robust than any equivalent pickup, and i only really had a choice between the Nissan Navara king cab and the Ranger Supercab to get the shorter cab and longer load bed. I've never seen a Hilux that isn't a double cab and whilst Isuzu make one i can't even remember the last time I saw a dealer in the UK. I had originally planned to use a euro4/5 Navara but they have a know issue with frames breaking due to internal corrosion caused by bad manufacturing, and then my London home is inside the new low emissions zone so forced me down the Euro6 route.....and i thought the NP300 is underpowered.

Something like a Mercedes Sprinter or Iveco would have been a stronger, wider chassis, but then you are getting into traditional class B class C motorhome territory so being demountable becomes harder and the base vehicle is less suitable as a daily drive - at least with the Ranger I can get into the airport car park to pick up visiting friends - and 4x4 is much rarer

The Ranger is a much narrower track than US full size trucks, which is why its not feasible to import a camper from the US or Canada, but again i think those vehicles are too wide for everyday use in europe, not to mention the hassles of import and servicing.

I plan to use this rig for mainly european islands, mountains and hard to reach places where towing a caravan onto ferries and along winding tracks is difficult. I would also like to ship it out to Southern Africa for a visit or two, but don't expect to be taking the camper on anything more difficult than dirt roads or forestry trails - if I want to go and play with the 4x4 on sand dunes or the beach or similar the camper will be dismounted and left at a campsite. Then for the rest of mainland europe i may swap to a 5th wheel caravan which the same pickup can tow - all part of the long term plan.

My main concern for handling is the height on a narrow track vehicle - its 3m tall to the roof line. I've been paranoid about weight distribution
and centre of gravity. My floor is almost 200mm thick which increases the roof height, but that allows me to keep the weight of the water bags low and evenly distributed. I chose to put the propane cylinder on the rear overhang but low down rather than further forward but above the tub line so there is a drop path outside the truck for any gas leak, and have opted for a single clear composite cylinder which weights less and I can see the level of remaining propane so i know when I need to refill rather than having to always carry a full spare. Ditto I opted for a portable compressor fridge rather than a heavier absorbtion model and again its low down rather than above the tub line so I can vent the heat of the compressor.

i decided on helper airbags rather than extra springs so that i can easily adjust the ride height and compensate for any side to side imbalance so the drive is as neutral as i can make it - all the other alternatives are fixed so any weight imbalance would have to be countered by moving contents around which compromises the living space and packing.

I've tried to copy common commercial product ideas with things like tie downs and jacks, but only real world time and experience will show if they are up to the job or under engineered. I hope the weakest point on the tie downs is the m7 nuts holding the lower tie rod to the internal springs, but that was as strong as i could make them from ebay components with the limited tools i have. And at least it will be very clearly visible if one breaks, and I will be fitting steel safety cables and carrying plenty of straps just in case. And the easiest way to double the strength is to fit two in parallel. Ditto the tie down points - i've fixed onto the frame at points that are already strengthened by factory plates and fittings for the cab mounts and tow hitch, but i've tried not to add too much weight or strength so that if it is overloaded my work will bend or break before damaging the truck frame or the camper .....but its all one big working prototype

I don't think the end result is much bigger or heavier than say a Bimobile Husky 240 and i retain the factory tub so I have a normal vehicle when the camper is demounted - the Bimobile requires you to have a crane to put the original tub back on and so is not a practical solution for life on the road. I know there is at least one company in the UK that does import a 2.15m wide cab over camper from the US that can go on European pickups, but it works out expensive and by the time you equip it with all the things you need for multi-month trips its not light either.

But if you see me upside down in a ditch on the way to the channel tunnel you know i got it wrong :)
 

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