Yeah, so this is happening...2.6 to '97 MS 2.4

[nonkjo]

Decided I didn't want to waste time on the 2.6 since I have to pull it out anyway to deal with the worn teeth on the flex plate. Might as well upgrade to something better. Plan on running this with an MS2 since I've read some threads on 4x4Wire that say the MS ECU is non-programmable.

I'll update as I go.

James

 

[Toasty]

Awesome, That's a good engine with a lot of aftermarket support.

 

[nonkjo]

So I had to take that engine back. I don't know why I didn't see it before but the driver's side alignment dowel ear on the block was broken off. I didn't see it when I got it. The engine was originally on a shelf in a dark engine warehouse. It was high so I looked at it the best I could and did a basic check to see if it had compression on all four cylinders (I turned it by hand). The point is I was looking for a rebuildable core. The VIN showed that the original vehicles was in an accident on three sides so I figured, "hey, it was a runner when pulled" and felt reasonably satisfied with what I was able to see. It was when I got it home and went to start pulling it apart that I saw the broken ear. Big bummer. Anyway, if you're in the DFW area and see a 98 4G64 on Car Parts for $250, that's the reason it's so inexpensive. So looks like I'm picking up another here pretty soon. I'm already wed to the 7-bolt 4G64 because I've got the flex plate, spacer, adapter and bolts from Japan so I figure if I'm going to replace it, it's going to be with the 16v version that makes the most power and gets the best fuel economy.

I'm working on some other stuff too while I wait. I pulled the rear end to clean it up. All the seals look good so I cleaned it up, replaced all of the brake components with Raybestos parts and put it all back together. This is a non-LSD rear. I know some will disagree with putting in the work in favor of an LSD swap or one with a locker from the MS, but I'm trying to get this thing going, just to keep my financial advisor (i.e. the loving wife) at bay. The LSD or rear and locker are in the second phase of my plan. I took my stock leafs to an old school spring shop to get them taken apart, re-arched and cleaned up and painted but was told by the shop that they didn't want to do it because they were afraid that pitting would mean the springs would break. They had some surface rust and I thought it would be okay but I defer to their experience. Anyway, I told my wife that I was just going to get some used MS leafs and she says, "why don't you just get new ones? Hey, I was trying to save money because she's not thrilled about my Raider project already but she doesn't have to tell me twice! So here's what I got:

The plan was always to get new shackles and pins because these are pretty rusty and worn. The bushings are for the Mighty Max from Energy Suspension. Part numbers are visible in the pictures. FYI, while the boxes say "set" on them only one shackle or one pin is in each box so for anyone interested in ordering some, just remember that you have to order 2 of each. Ironman4x4 says these are specifically for the SWB Montero. Hand and eyeball shows that everything seemd to line up, bushings fit, etc. The hardware is definitely built for heavier duty than the stock parts. That's obvious when you look at the shackles. Anyway, Now that I've thawed out of the Texas Snowpocalypse I'm gonna put all of this together then figure out which rear shock to go with.

More to come.

 

[nonkjo]

Second MS G64 on its way. In the meantime I put the new greaseable shackles and pins along with the new leafs on the back. Not a fun job. These springs seem to have a little more arch in them and were a PITA to get the front pin into. Shackles had to go first so I could, then, partially insert the pins to hold everything in place and use a jack to flatten the spring enough to line the holes up. The diff is just resting on the springs right now ( to get it out of the way) while I wait for the ARB U-bolts to get here. I tried to source some U-bolts locally and wasn't able to find any at the box stores. When I decided to order them online, I figured I might as well spend a little more and get the ones from ARB. The ones I ordered are a little longer to account for the extra leaf as well as the thicker overload leaf.
Since our choices are pretty limited for shocks in leaf sprung trucks, I decided to be the guy to try the Skyjacker Black Max foam cell shocks. I was going to go with a hydro shock all along because I don't like the initial jarring that I've experienced with friends who have nitro shocks. I prefer a softer, more progressive compression and rebound from hydros where the spring does the work and the shock attenuates the harshness instead of the shock and spring both rebounding. I don't know if that makes sense. Skyjacker also claims that these shocks are valved for vehicle specific application and this is what they recommended for the 87 Montero. Anyway, the shocks were priced at a little over $50 apiece and can be mounted either way (no gas anywhere in these things) so I'll be able to mount them tube-side up to allow the boots to drain if they get water in them.

 

[Jwink25]

Anymore updates?

 

[nonkjo]

Anymore updates?

Sorry, not yet. Life gets in the way. I just retired after 21 years of active duty and have been taking care of a lot of the stuff that goes with that. Looking for a new job and tying up loose ends.
The Raider isn't far from my mind though. I've got the 1999 MS 2.4 engine pulled apart. Everything is ready to go to the machine shop to get it dipped, decked, and the new balance shaft bearings pressed in. I've already got everything I need to put together the long block. I measured everything out and everything looks good. The bores in the block were in great shape and still had a very nice crosshatch so they'll just get a flex hone. I've got all new bearings to install throughout. I was cleaning the pistons up and got tired of all the carbon after about 10 minutes so it's getting all new standard sized pistons. So I've got to get the rods pressed out of the old ones and put onto the new ones. I guess the bottom line is that getting everything to the machine shop is the choke-point for me. After that, things should move quickly once I get that stuff done.

I'm impatient though. I found a running 91 Mighty Max 2.4 that some kid took out of a nice truck because he wants to put in a Chevy big block. He knows nothing about the 4G64 because if he did, he wouldn't be selling it to me for $200...heck, he probably wouldn't be wasting his time with the chevy v8! I think I'll pick that engine and ECU up and use it to get the Raider running for the short term so I can take my time with the newer engine.

My mind is turning though and I have some questions too.
1. Does anyone know if a V-belt crank pulley from the 91 MM 2.4 will fit on the 99 MS 2.4? The power steering pump has been something bothering me for a while and I think, in the end I just want to remove it in favor of an electric power steering unit out of a 2006 Prius. That would take some of the parasitic load off the engine and simplify stuff under the hood and I could run V belts on the alternator, water pump, and AC instead of a single serpentine belt and associated tensioners. Maybe I'm old fashioned...I dunno.
2. If I do decide to get the electrical power steering from the Prius, does anyone know how to "depower" the Raider steering box and make it work like a manual steering box? If it was a rack, it would be easier but the steering box isn't as straight forward of a process.

So that's where I'm at right now. No pics but I'll put some up once things start moving again...hopefully soon. Here's the link to the power steering conversion I'm thinking about: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/150-electric-power-steering-junkyard-prius-delivers . It looks like it would be pretty easy to adapt to the Raider. Thoughts or criticisms anyone?

 

[ARDOR]

2. If I do decide to get the electrical power steering from the Prius, does anyone know how to "depower" the Raider steering box and make it work like a manual steering box? If it was a rack, it would be easier but the steering box isn't as straight forward of a process.

Seems to me you'd need to adapt a rack and pinion set up before going with the electric Prius conversion.

I'm struggling to imagine how you'd make it work with it's current recirculating-ball steering configuration unless you can find a manual steering box that'll fit.

I know there were D50/MMs with manual steering, but don't know about Montero/Raider/Sports?

I've seen the L300 discussed as a potential donor, but it doesn't seem anyone has actually executed... http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/8113-Steering-rack-conversion

 

[nonkjo]

Seems to me you'd need to adapt a rack and pinion set up before going with the electric Prius conversion.

I'm struggling to imagine how you'd make it work with it's current recirculating-ball steering configuration unless you can find a manual steering box that'll fit.

I know there were D50/MMs with manual steering, but don't know about Montero/Raider/Sports?

I've seen the L300 discussed as a potential donor, but it doesn't seem anyone has actually executed... http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/8113-Steering-rack-conversion

That's been my thinking too but it never hurts to ask. I think I'll have to track down a MM or D50 manual steering box and see how that one would fit, check shaft sizes and pittman lengths. The other option I have is to get a volvo electric power steering pump but I'd need to get the engine installed to really get an idea of the room I'd have left over. The easiest way of course is to just keep the power steering pump and serpentine setup. The reason I'm looking at alternatives at all is because the 91 G64 I'm getting is out of a manual steering truck so no pump unless I figure out how to use the one from the original 2.6. In that case it would probably need a bracket fabbed and share a V-belt with the water pump.

 

[plh]

That's been my thinking too but it never hurts to ask. I think I'll have to track down a MM or D50 manual steering box and see how that one would fit, check shaft sizes and pittman lengths. The other option I have is to get a volvo electric power steering pump but I'd need to get the engine installed to really get an idea of the room I'd have left over. The easiest way of course is to just keep the power steering pump and serpentine setup. The reason I'm looking at alternatives at all is because the 91 G64 I'm getting is out of a manual steering truck so no pump unless I figure out how to use the one from the original 2.6. In that case it would probably need a bracket fabbed and share a V-belt with the water pump.

Get a pump, pulley and bracket from a G64 Mighty Max

 

[CharlieNorth]

I hate to be harsh here,
This project looks to be one that will never be completed. If you can not simply connect a power steering pump up there is little chance you will achieve the far more complex tasks.
The raider is a simple vehicle and trying to create something special when you have no clue how to generally turns into a scrap pile.

 

[nonkjo]

I picked up the engine from the machine shop today and was excited to start putting it together and found that the front balance shaft bearing had split along the seam. Using a flashlight and mirror I was able to get a look at the ones on the inside and they look good so it's just the front one. I would have thought it would be the easiest one but I guess not. Anyone ever seen a bearing open up at the seam like that on installation? Seeing as how it's so obvious I would think that the machine shop would have mentioned it or at least explained it if it's okay because it's ....concerning. I ordered another set of Clevite bearings to do it again. Annoyed because I was going to plastigage the main bearings and rods today but now that's on hold.

I also got the pistons pressed onto the rods. I was able to pull the Carfax using the VIN on the engine and it has about 170k miles but the bores measured well within tolerances (I measured them and the machine shop verified them) so these are new standard sized pistons and rings.

 

[Toasty]

Is that a new bearing? looks worn.

As for the PS pump you just need the bracket and water pump pulley from the 2.4 Pajero or Montero Sport and your pump (or a Gen 2 pump) will bolt into place. That's what i used for mine, i recall it was a readily available part. It's been a bunch of years but i remember the PS conversion being fairly straightforward minus hunting for part numbers which was pretty easy.

 

[CharlieNorth]

I picked up the engine from the machine shop today and was excited to start putting it together and found that the front balance shaft bearing had split along the seam.

That is not a spit in the bearing, they are produced with a seam. That bearing is worn out, how did it get through a machine shops hands and not get replaced?
If that engine truly has 170K miles it should have been in a condition to just install as is and drive for many years. That thing had to have been run out of oil at some point.
Why did the pistons need to be changed or replaced?

 

[nonkjo]

Is that a new bearing? looks worn.

As for the PS pump you just need the bracket and water pump pulley from the 2.4 Pajero or Montero Sport and your pump (or a Gen 2 pump) will bolt into place. That's what i used for mine, i recall it was a readily available part. It's been a bunch of years but i remember the PS conversion being fairly straightforward minus hunting for part numbers which was pretty easy.

Yeah...that's the new bearing. They had the balance shaft because they said they needed it to make sure the bearings were pressed in straight. I also notice they didn't charge me to press the bearings on the invoice...hmmm. I'd say they had trouble with it.

 

[nonkjo]

That is not a spit in the bearing, they are produced with a seam. That bearing is worn out, how did it get through a machine shops hands and not get replaced?
If that engine truly has 170K miles it should have been in a condition to just install as is and drive for many years. That thing had to have been run out of oil at some point.
Why did the pistons need to be changed or replaced?

Okay...you got me. I lied about it being a new bearing.